Ireland Day 3: Driving to Dingle

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Driving day. Day 3 involved the longest bit of driving of the trip and so required a departure from Waterford at a reasonable hour. We also had plans to stop at Blarney castle outside of Cork to kiss a stone along the way (more on that later).
Ireland is not a very large country. East to West, the greatest distance is perhaps 200 miles. Nevertheless, such a trip can easily take 5-6 hours because Ireland has very few motorways (aka limited-access highways). For those of us who did not grow up in an era where single-lane highways with the occasional passing lane were the norm, it can be a little frustrating to sit behind farmer John…er Padraig on his tractor at 20 mph.
Today we drove to Dingle on the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry. We also stopped just outside of Cork, Ireland’s second city, to visit Blarney Castle. While Blarney is not a particularly impressive bit of military architecture, especially for a guy like Axel whose seen a few castles, it isn’t famous for that anyway. Blarney castle is famous for its stone which confers eloquence to those who kiss it. Laurie kissed it. Axel didn’t. Axel says he “doesn’t buy all that superstisous hogwash.” The stone is located in a really awkward location within the machicolations (there’s a technical term for ya - thank you Axel!) in the parapet and so requires the assistance of a guide to kiss it without injury. Laurie did fine and has a picture to prove it. She should be ready for her next promotion by Halloween.
County Kerry is the dairy heartland of Ireland with a number of cheeses and excellent butter originating here. It is also even more beautiful than the other areas we have seen thus far, with rolling green hills and quaint little villages. One thing that struck Axel who is familiar with rural France is how vibrant the little villages are. In many of the villages we drove through, teenagers and young children could be seen gathered in social groups and enjoying themselves. Most villages also had several businesses, to include fine dress shops, furniture stores, hardware stores and all manner of business that is long gone from all but the larger towns in other parts of Europe. Our conclusion is that this vibrancy is a product of the fact that Ireland’s highways still constitute main street in most villages. Bypasses and superhighways have not made it into many parts of Ireland to ease traveling great distances. Consequently, the local Mom and Pop business which we have long lamented the loss of in the U.S. is alive and well here.
Anyhow, we are in the Dingle Peninsula now, the northernmost peninsula jutting out into the Atlantic from southwestern Ireland. Its spectacular spine of mountains is covered by extensive sheep grazing such that the animals greatly outnumber the human inhabitants. Dingle, the largest town, is located some 20-30 miles East of Slea Head, the extremity of the peninsula. Much like Newport, RI in the U.S. it is a highly seasonal town whose summer population is significantly greater. Lots of great shops and charming pubs and restaurants line its streets. Our accommodations are at the Emlagh House which faces the entrance of the harbor and the stormy Atlantic waters beyond. Laurie loves her “princess bed” which is super cozy and has a partial canopy, and we both love the superb water pressure in the shower.
Dinner was at the Chart House, a warm little restaurant with an open fire and wood paneling. It served mostly excellent sea food. Laurie was tickled pink when her pick off the wine list turned out to be very good.

Where we stayed: Emlagh House
Where we ate: Chart House

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Photos

Emlagh House
Our room.