Ireland Day 2: Waterford, Cashel

As expected, getting up on our first full day in Ireland was not difficult. No alarm clock required! By 6 am we were wide awake…as if we had just taken a long afternoon siesta…
On the docket for day 2 was a visit of Cashel, another one of Ireland’s must-see sites. And you guessed it…it was more ruins! For those who don’t know, Ireland has four provinces which are made up of 5-6 or more counties: Connaught, Ulster, Leinster and Munster. Until the 12c when Anglo-Norman influence caused their power to wane, Kings ruled each province and one of these kings served as High King of all of Ireland. Cashel was the seat of power of the Kings of Munster, and for good reason. A prominent rock formation dominates the surrounding Suir river valley. After its political importance fell, Cashel became an important ecclesiastical site, and so the ruins on the Rock of Cashel today are religious rather than military. The shell of a cathedral and other buildings associated with a Bishop’s seat are all that remain perched on the rock above the town. One thing that we have already noted in our short time in Ireland is the impact of the English civil war here in the 17th century. Oliver Cromwell’s forces ravaged Ireland and destroyed many important ecclesiastical sites. In Cashel’s case, one of his generals ordered the massacre of between 1000-3000 people who had taken refuge in the Cathedral…yet another bloody page in Irish history.
Following our tour, we had a great little lunch at Café Hans, again recommended by the Michelin Red guide…worth every penny that one, and then headed back towards Waterford.
Of course what visit to Waterford, Ireland would be complete without visiting its famous glass works?! Along with about 6 busloads of American retirees, we visited Waterford Crystal and were dazzled by a thousand glinting pieces of glass. They have a factory tour which Axel had a passing interest in seeing, but the dinner bell beckoned at that point. We would like to note the excellent job that Ireland does marketing herself. Waterford Crystal was extremely well organized and prepared to sell, sell, sell! They even had all sorts of little signs reminding potential buyers that a.) many items were unique to the factory store, and b.) many items were priced cheaper at the factory store. Many a blue-hair was buying herself a set of salt and pepper shakers!
The Red Guide’s Bib Gourmand (excellent food at a “reasonable” price) recommendation in the Waterford area was a place called Aldridge Lodge. We had already tried going there our first night but they were booked so were excited to have a chance to go for dinner tonight. Getting there proved to be a bit of an adventure as the lodge is located on the other side of Waterford harbor, requiring a 5-minute ferry ride to get there. Once across the ferry, it took some time to find the place on a remote rural road in the dark of night. Axel doesn’t like being lost, let’s leave it at that. We eventually did spot the inviting fire-lit glow of the lodge however, and had a wonderful experience. Laurie was tickled by a pumpkin and goat cheese bisque provided in a shot glass as amuse bouche as we waited for our meals…which were also fantastic. Axel had duck (much to Laurie’s disapproval) which was like sushi-grade tuna in butteriness and tenderness. It was our favorite dining experience so far.
The maitre D and Laurie became fast friends in discussing their various foodie explorations. She had many recommendations for the remainder of our holiday that we plan to strongly consider.

Where we Ate: Arlington Lodge

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