The Other Side of the Road

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We are back in Dublin as I write this entry, but I remember it very clearly. The day started with and early breakfast, pretty much the first ones there so everything was freshly put out. I even dared the sunny side up eggs, they were actually pretty ok. I drank three cups of coffee and got one to go as I needed to be alert for the first part of the trip.

We picked up our rental car from Europcar just down the street from our hotel. The credit card was supposed to cover the insurance, but Ireland is one of the few countries, not covered, along with Italy (which I understand because they drive crazy), Israel (I have an idea why) and Jamaica. Long story short, we paid for all of the insurance. Renting the car was the easy part, driving was another story.

Everything about driving here is just backwards. The drive (me) is on the other side of the car, you drive on the other side of the road, the passing lane I on your right not your left, the shoulder is on the left not the right, the left turn is the short turn the right the long. It is very confusing. Even after two days of driving on the other side of the road, I am still not use to it. I tend to hug the left side of the road; I don’t know why I just do. So much so that within 20 minutes we hit the guardrail (thanks for the insurance no coast to us). Then there are the round abouts, I am great at round abouts when you go to the right, but here you go to the left it is like an alternate universe. The saving grace was it was an automatic, there is no way I could drive a manual and shift with my left hand.

We did get there in one piece, well Jerry was a nervous reck, because he was on the left side of the car, so knew how close I was to the edge, I really had zero since of where then edge of the road was on the left side. The hotel was actually very easy to get to, well that is one we managed to find our way into the city. The main roundabout was under major construction so we missed the exit and ended up at the airport before getting turned in the right direction.

Our hotel for the evening was Metropole, a nice hotel, but it was quite a walk to our room. We did have a nice river view. I felt like Hansel and Gretel finding our room, I just needed some bread crumbs to find the way back to the elevator. The room was very nice, even heated towel bar. The bed was small only a double, not even a Queen, but we were so tired by the time we hit the sheets it could have been a single and we would not have cared.

We were early, so we stored out luggage and headed out for our half day in Cork. First stop Shandon Bells and Tower. It was a hike to get there, all up hill. Then there were the 132 steps to the top of the tower. On the first floor you get to stop and ring the bells. They even have a number guide so you could play a song, of course one of them was the worst Beatle’s song in the world “Hey Jude”. I rang two bells, then continued up to the balcony. As always, the pain of the steps is rewarded with a great few. Even at 60 and to much extra weight, I can make it to the top.

From the Church, (St. Anne’s) we then headed back down the hill into the center of the city, which is on an Island the River Lee on either side. He we walked down Paul Street (the French quarter) a very quaint street with a hint of French influence. Then we walked through the English Market. We always enjoy the markets and a chance to see all the fresh produce, excellent meats and cheeses. There is a restaurant on the second floor called The Farmgate, we were going to have lunch there but they are not opened on Mondays. This turned out to be ok, as we ate at Market Lane instead. Spoiler alert, dish of the day came from this place. First it was packet, but we got right in. The menu has a mix of traditional and more modern takes on Irish Fare. The fish & chips looked good, but I have already had that twice. We both went for sandwiches. Jerry had Chicken Salad, and not just any chicken salad a Tarragon Cashew Pesto Chicken Salad with sundried tomatoes served on a beer mash sourdough. He also a Potato & Smoked Gouda Gratin. The server sort of gave him a look when he ordered that, and after we saw the size of the sandwich, we know why. I had shredded rosscarberry bacon, Bandon cheddar, red onion chutney and mustard may, served on thick hearty white bread. My side were house made chips with smoked garlic aioli. I also had a wonderful Pitchet of Rose.

It was by far the best lunch of the trip so far. Jerry’s sandwich was far and away the dish of the day, I made this decision even before our pretty average dinner to come.

After lunch came the rest of our Cork Walking tour (12, 933 steps in all). From Market Lane, we walked back down Oliver Plunkett Street and walked across the other fork of the River Lee towards Elizabeth Fort, again uphill. The fort was built in the 17^th century and served as a defensive fortification outside the city walls. Over the years it has been a military barracks, prison and police station. Pretty much only the walls of the fort remain today. After the death of Elizabeth I, the people of Cork destroy much of the fort as they felt James I would use it against them. James I, being the son of Mary Queen of Scot (converted to Protestantism, so it might have been something he would have done since the people of Cork were predominately catholic.

Just slightly down the hill form Elizabeth Fort is Saint Fin Barre’s Cathedral. St. Fin Barre is the patron saint of Cork. The cathedral that presently sits on the site is not the original. Originally a monastery was established on the site in the seventh century. During the Protestant Reformation, the cathedral became part of the Church of Ireland (not catholic.) In 1864 the original cathedral was demolished and the existing cathedral was built.

From the cathedral it was a walk back in to the center of down and down St. Patrick’s Street. This is the main shopping street of the city. It clearly has seen better times. Unlike Dublin which seems to be going through a construction boom, Cork is struggling, many of the shops on long the street are closed or for let. At the end of the street is Patrick’s Bridge.

What we did not get to visit was the Butter Museum. At one time, Cork was the butter capital of the world, the butter ships sailed in and out of Cork on a regular basis, delivering Irish butter throughout the world. The museum tells the history of butter in Cork. Unfortunately, it was not open on Monday. Pre-covid when this trip was planned it was open 7 days a week.

We got back to our hotel around 5:30, finishing checking in and went to our room. I forgot that I had ordered a bottle of Sparkling Wine for us, so it was a nice surprised to see the Spanish Cava chilling in the bucket when we walked in.

We relaxed in the room, I took a shower and shaved and did some blogging. I am not really going to bother with discussion dinner, it was that unremarkable. The hotel, was obviously quite lavish back in the day, now it needs a major update. The view of the city and river was nice, but a nice updating throughout is much needed. Our rate included both dinner and breakfast, not sure it was worth it, well I know it wasn’t’ worth it, but it really didn’t have too much to the price. We will likely not choose to stay there again, when across the road is the Isaac, which is rumored (by locals) to be much better and the restaurant even makes Fodor’s Travel Guide.

Half day is really a perfect amount of time to spend in Cork. It would also make a great home base for exploring the rest of County Cork, the cheese and butter heart of Ireland.

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Photos

Chicken Salad alla Cork
Dish of the Day

Comments

[Connie]

Good looking sandwich
That chicken sandwich sounded exceptional. I have always wondered about all of the walking that you do. I typically get about 13,000 steps in a work day, but when we visited you in NYC - I was beat on day 4. I am wondering about this next trip... I enjoy the architecture photos and landscapes of where you visit as well as the food journaling. Hoping Tarragon is settling in.