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Published: February 10th 2014
Budapest Underground station
A trip back in time to be in this historic and functioning modern convenienceThis morning we went to
Cyrano’s, a restaurant one block from the hotel that we had noticed yesterday. The service was very good and friendly. They brought us a large basket of rye bread and buttered white toast for the table. I have finally exhausted my appetite for smoked salmon, so I had a fried egg with two long, thin Vienna sausages served with a Vienna roll which they called a bagel.
We returned to the hotel briefly, in part to get warmer clothes! It was really cold, probably low singe-digits. Then Deirdre and I walked about a block to the
underground station. The manned ticket booth was right at the entrance, and we bought two tickets each for 620 HUF (Hungarian forint, about €3). A train came immediately and the ticket inspector nodded when I asked, “Mexicali?”, which is the direction we needed. The trains were older but not original I think; most of the stations were old – distinguished by white tiles framed in brown tiles and lots of wood trim and doors. At our station we emerged into a park and followed a few other passengers to the
Széchenyi spa.
In the reception area it was a bit
Szechenyi spa
As seen on our city tour - how the weather changed! difficult to buy more than our entry tickets, because the clerks were behind ticket windows so low Deirdre had to kneel to ask about towels and no one spoke English. (And we didn’t speak Hungarian.) Although the price sign (etched in brass) was in English, Deirdre couldn’t get any information about renting towels. So we just went in, trusting to the flow.
The mixed dressing rooms were set up like in Bath (or vice versa, since this is older). We entered a changing booth that exited at the lockers; our plastic wristwatch-shaped entry devices locked the locker. In our hotel slippers we timidly followed our noses to a couple of indoor pools, marked as to temperature. We slid happily into the 28C pool and then into the 30C pool, both slightly sulphurous. Eventually we took our courage and curiosity outdoors – it was chilly and breezy! We quickly walked into a large 30C pool, made special by fountain spray that gave an excellent head and shoulder massage. (We heard from a couple on the boat that a woman had been forbidden from sunbathing when they visited, because this spa was for health only.)
Floating around gave us a
Mainstreet art
Look carefully to see that this construction site hoarding is a painting of a house laid out flat! full perspective of this wonderful baroque building. In yellow plaster with cream highlights, its magnificent façade glowed even on such a gloomy day. Once with female and male entrances and indoor pools, its design is mirror-image centred by a cold swimming or plunge pool. The main facilities rise high on one side, and low-rise massage rooms and a snack bar form the other. We tripped quickly (chilly!) from our first outdoor pool, past the cold swimming pool, to what proved to be the almost magical play pool at the other end of the interior plaza. There is a central “doughnut-shaped” structure in the pool: the “doughnut hole” is a pool that bubbles gently; the “doughnut part” is a sort of wave pool that pushes swimmers around by force of water. Fairly fast, it makes everyone laugh as they bob and whizz around. At intervals the water calms and in other parts of the pool big bubbles are blown on which swimmers can almost balance, being gently pushed to and fro. Finally, at times spouts of water arch from the side into the pool for yet another massage technique.
After over an hour of floating in warm water, my skin
St Stephen's Basillica
Glorious tribute to a revered king was thoroughly puckered. We made our way back, re-experiencing each pool again. Deirdre tried again with the towels, and we ended up with large sheets – inadequate really. She had to pay what we thought was a purchase price, but she received no refund when they were returned. We chalked the relatively low cost up to experience. All costs together, we paid about $15.00 for the day.
Back at the hotel, Barbara and Ian were enjoying more hot chocolate as they waited for us. The weather was deteriorating, so we walked only a couple of blocks and chose the
Anna café. (I think I have seen them before, so it must be a chain.) We had lovely lunches – mine was a chicken breast with tomatoes and lettuce on a small baguette-style bun, although more substantial. On the side came a small, delicious bocconcini and tomato salad.
We couldn’t pass on the enticing sweets menu, so Ian ordered a sundae and I ordered a Hungarian cake: very thin layers of light chocolate cake alternating with lightly-caramel-flavoured cream, all topped by thick, hard caramel. Deidre “helped” us both; but Barbara was satisfied with her previous chocolate drink.
By now
Basilica side entrance
The rain emphasizes the well designed architectural details. it was starting to rain more seriously. Ian and Barbara had seen the great and nearby
St Stephen’s Basilica in the morning and decided to stay dry for the afternoon. Deirdre and I headed out again – well worth it! A few blocks away, the Basilica rises from a pink marble forecourt and steps which looked marvelously graphic in the slick coating of rain. Inside we walked quietly down one aisle and were awed by the ornate chapels and embellished ceiling paintings. The main altar and aisle were roped off, but the marble statues of Jesus glowed in the dark church. We walked along the other side aisle, gazing at the intricate statues representing the Holy Family and saints. (This St Stephen is a historical leader in Hungary; perhaps the other saints are also?).
At the end of the aisle, I noticed others going into a chapel almost behind the altar. It was small and plain, directing attention to a silver coffer – lit up. Reading a sign revealed that
St Stephen's dome
Highly decorated interior focuses on this central eye-lifting way to heaven. it was the
fist of St Stephen and that a 200 HUF “donation” would pay for two minutes of illumination. As the previous lighting was over, between us, Deirdre and I found sufficient coins to pay the attendant. The relic was black with age and preservation, which reminded me of the thumb of
St Catherine in Sienna. This one is in a richer, silver, highly decorative casket with a bracelet-like structure to hold the hand.
From here we returned to the entrance and paid 400 HUF to ascend the dome. First we walked up three flights of stairs, then found the elevator to the top. Inside the external dome is a much smaller, wooden one – both integrated by a steel structure (from the era of Eiffel). The elevator took us up to a stone surround, giving us a view (in wind and rain) of the expanse of red-tiled roofs of the city. (Later on the plane I saw that these roofs extended for miles.) We were just able to orient ourselves to the river by sighting the Elizabeth Bridge.
On the ground, I wished for a large, takeout cup of tea, and Deirdre immediately spotted a place. But it seemed I wanted to
Dome from the other side
The Basilica's decorated dome is an interior one, not the inside of the exterior dome. take an all-encompassing photo of the Basilica more, because we walked a long way down the forecourt. Then we couldn’t find another place to have tea until coming to Anna Café again. (We did get “lost” in a clothing store, hoping to find the entrance to an indoor mall.) As expected, Anna Café served an elegant pot of tea – and not expected, a little jug of lemon juice. That was a delicious addition.
Finally, back at the hotel and after packing, we all agreed we wouldn’t get wet again but just eat in the lobby deli. Barbara wasn’t hungry, even at 8:00, and rested in her room. We others weren’t very hungry either and all ate delicious soup –
Hungarian goulash for Deirdre and me – served with an excellent bread and tasty lager. Up in Barbara’s room we all said good-bye. They were leaving at about 4:00 a.m.!
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