3-4 November 2014: Auschwitz-Birkenau to Krakow to Budapest

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We rose early and had breakfast at the Komorski's apartment and then waited for Anna to pick us up for our days journey. Last night Natalia's uncle, aunty and cousins came around to meet us and catch up with Tim. It's difficult when you have no knowledge of the language spoken but we were kept involved and it was a lovely end to our stay. On hearing of our trip to Auschwitz tomorrow, Natalia's uncle was concerned that I didn't think it was a Polish camp, and I wonder if this is a concern to many Polish people. I think most people know the evil behind this. We had a great stay in Poland, largely due to the love and hospitality shown by the Komorski's who kept inventing new ways to make our stay better, but it was time to move on.

We drove for about 2.5hrs, at about 150kph at times, to reach Auschwitz and I couldn't believe the amount of tourist buses there. There were schools, tour groups and people travelling independently, milling around the entrance; this is a popular destination. Entry is free and we passed through the infamous gates to start our tour.

It's hard to describe this place and I find it even upsetting to recall the horror these people were subjected too. We saw the experimental gas chamber which had ovens nearby. This was used but Birkenhau and other places were the main sites for these. The chamber is one thing that is fairly unchanged and to enter there with a large group of people is to enter a very serious atmosphere. People just gaze around, some young girls were visibly affected and the tone was one of disbelief in what had occurred here. It is a little disconcerting that to some this is just another tourist destination, and selfies and posing for portraits seemed OK to them. I think this place is a memorial to the dead and a very visual reminder of the evil that occurred here. Some young school groups didn't seem to 'get it' either and you could question the wisdom of bringing them here. It's very confronting.

We also saw 'evidence' displays of thousands of shoes, suitcases with names on them, clothes, wire framed glasses and children's clothes and shoes. This was an efficient operation. Many of the buildings house exhibitions dedicated to specific races, ethnic groups and religions and left little to the imagination. A visit to the sanitary and living conditions block finished our tour. Birkenau has little there, as it was destroyed as the Germans retreated and few people survived to tell the story; it was purely a death camp. We didn't go over there as we needed to head to Krakow. It can seem a bit macabre visiting a place like this but if you can, it magnifies any knowledge you may already have about it.

The trip to Krakow took about an hour and we arrived shortly before dusk. Either I'm getting to places at the wrong time or Poland has very short days; a little bit of both, I think. Anna parked near the railway station and we walked towards the main Square in the old town. These spaces are sometimes more beautiful by night as they are lit by traditional street lamps that emit a softer light. We wandered through the Square where small gypsy children were playing music with the skill of a pro and a woman outside St Peter and St Paul's Church was singing operas. It all added to the atmosphere as we passed through the gates of the King's Palace, no longer occupied, and came back out near a street of cafés and restaurants. We picked a place to have some dinner and it was very traditional Polish food. Sue recognised many of the dishes as those prepared for us at the Komorski's home, so we could order with some prior knowledge of the food. It was a great meal and we headed out, intent on having a carriage ride.

Our driver took us around for an hour and we passed through much of the old Jewish Quarter and ended up in front of the Cloth Hall. It was good fun and our second encounter with horses on this trip. It was getting late at this stage and Anna and Natalia had a long drive home, so after a coffee and cake we bid them farewell and made our way to the Krakow Railway Station to catch the overnight train to Budapest.

We were at the station early and rather than sit in the seedy part of the station we perched in a cafe until it was time to catch our train. As you can see by the pictures the cabin was small, but once you are organised and in bed it is irrelevant. The train pulled out at 10pm precisely and we fell asleep to the gentle rolling of the carriages as we made our way to Budapest. Sometime near 4am I became aware that we were stopped and it seemed to last quite some time. We were in fact delayed for 2hrs by another train and we did not reach Budapest until 10.30am, a 12hr trip. This type of travel is OK but a little too expensive so we will probably take the day train to Prague.

We wasted no time in Budapest and after buying 3 day passes for the Met , we went to our apartment, dropped off the bags, and set off for ' Heroes' Square' at the end of the main avenue through Pest. Along the way we spotted Muvesz Cafe which retains the style and service of the 1800's, in its heyday, and it could be said that it makes popular cafés in Melbourne look a bit drab. After coffee and a bit of strudel for breakfast, we walked up to Heroes' Square passing many fine homes and embassy's. Heroes' Square is dedicated to the thousandth year of original Hungarian settlement and its centrepiece is the Millenium Monument. At its base there are depicted the heroes who made Hungarian history with their deeds.

We then went to the Vajdahunyad Castle behind the Square, built in the 19th century to commemorate the Millenium. It is now the national agricultural museum and it is remarkable to wander its large grounds.and the large park behind it, dressed in the last of its honey, orange and lemon autumn colours.

The next stop was the famous Széchenyi Bath, a natural thermal bath built into an enclosed bathing area in 1881. It has had various additions and refurbishments but it is definitely high on the things to do in the next 2 days. We had a peek inside and it is as grand as an Opera theatre. I'm off to buy something to swim in tomorrow !

Feeling a bit tired, we caught the Met back into the centre of Pest and visited St Istaman's Cathedral. It's obvious Hungary has the same reverence for Saint Stephen as Spain does; wise choice and there should be more of it. Its a huge church visible from all over Budapest and faces onto a large square aptly named, St Istaban's Square.

For lunch we walked to the Central Market Hall and for a few dollars, or many florints, we enjoyed goulash soup, bread, and we shared an traditional cake dessert; we are trying to cut down on the sweet things. It's almost impossible in Budapest as at every corner you turn your senses are assaulted by sweet pastries, cinnamon, Hungarian main dishes such as goulash, and frankly, I'm not sure I want to resist the attack. We have 3 days and we should at least sample and experience the lot.

After lunch we strolled the market, bought some fruit, cabanas, and bread and wandered back to take our bags into our appartment . It's been a big day and we rested a little before going to the supermarket to sort out breakfast food, dropped into the Gerbeaud Cafe , another one of these classic cafés, for coffee and cake and had a stroll along the banks of the Danube before heading back for bed.

Tomorrow we are going to Buda on the other side of the river and will spend most of the day there. It is quite hilly and walking is the plan so a goo nights rest is the plan.

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Photos

Aushwitz-Birkenau Gates
'Work Will Make You Free'

Gypsy Accordian Player
Constantly looking out for cameras.

Horse and Carriage
We toured the Jewish area in one. Better than riding one up O Cebrerio in Spain,Sue says.

The Cloth Hall
A traditional market in the Square. Restored and beautiful.

St Peter and St Paul's Church
Statues at the entrance .

Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Man's inhumanity to man
it is sad to imagine this could have happen. Evil pure evil. There are times when the world does not make sense. I'm glad you had time to see some happy things also.