The Other Ithaca


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Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Santorini
August 29th 2009
Published: November 9th 2009
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Our decision to visit Santorini was initiated as follows.
Jonathan: "Where should we go after Mykonos?"
Zara: "I don't know. What's another really Greek island? How about Santorini? I've heard of that one."
Jonathan: "Too far. What about Naxos? Hang on, I have to check my e-mail."
Naxos was described in our guidebook as a beautiful island with magnificent beaches. Santorini a magnificent island with beautiful beaches. No help from Lonely Planet. But Jonathan found the answer in his inbox. Stan and Amanda, two Aussies we met in Italy and traveled through France with,
were traveling to Santorini and wondered where we might be. So we followed the winds of fate to join them.
The caldera view that greeted us was one of a kind. The island is shaped like an engagement ring, with a fishing island as the diamond. 3000 years ago, these parts formed a whole until it was blown up by a volcanic explosion. But this little setback hasn't stopped Santorinians from building tiny blue and white houses along the ridge of the island, like the shimmer of the ring when the light hits it.
Miracle worker Jonathan managed to secure us on entire apartment in one of these blue and white buildings in the same town as Stan and Amanda for 35 Euros a night, an unheard of price on this island. We stayed in the town with the best view of the caldera (the volcano). The first day we wandered into Fira, a ten minute walk from Firastefani, and meandered through the tiny alleys laden with tourist shops.
The second day we got straight to business and rented 4-wheelers with Stan and Amanda. For the next two days we explored the island. Out first stop was Parissa, a beautiful black sand beach with water like a giant swimming pool. The only life inside this crystal blue were the tiny fish that confused Jonathan's toes with sea-weed. Dozens swarmed around his feet, nibbling on his heels as he swam. We met Anna and Leo on this beach, a Brazilian couple living in New York. He is a personal trainer and she works in insurance. They both reminded us of some of our friends at home. We made a dinner appointment with them in Fira for the following night.
After this black sand beach we were off to visit the Red Sand Beach, which looked more like the Mars Beach. Hollow red rocks jutted out from the cliff side and sloped toward green waters. Although it was worth seeing, the rocky shore and murky waters did not lend themselves to swimming, so we headed back to Fira.
The second day on out ATVs we drove to Kamari Beach and followed the zigzag path up the cliff to some ancient ruins. Honestly, it was so hot, we didn't even feel like reading the signs. We just sat in the shade of an olive tree and chatted for awhile. I told Stan and Amanda I was reading Homer's Odyssey. It doesn't mention many of the places we have been in Greece, but it does mention Delos, the island of ruined temples off the coast of Mykonos. In the tale Odysseus speaks of the temple of Apollo in all its glory, the ruins we saw on Delos almost 3000 years after the book was written. It really gives you some perspective on how old these ruins are.
After we toured the ruins, Jonathan wasn't feeling well, so we headed back into town. He felt a little better after a rest and we met Anna, Leo, Stan and Amanda for dinner. Anna and Leo had a surprise for us: fresh caught tuna they had acquired on a boat ride. One of the restaurants cooked it up and, since we couldn't finish it all, Jonathan and I got the leftovers to keep in our fridge. We had tuna for lunch and dinner every day there after.
Unfortunately Jonathan had a fever that night and we were out of commission for the next couple days. We seem to be taking turns getting sick on this trip. It can happen quickly when moving around so much, exposed to new breeds of viruses each day. Some of the people we met in tour groups tell us the entire group is coughing in unison because of their hectic schedule and close quarters. It's a good thing we had a huge apartment on a gorgeous island to take a much needed rest.
In the meantime Amanda and Stan moved from their splurge in Firastefani (a caldera view hotel Walt Disney would be proud of) to another hotel in Oia. These were their last few days at the end of a four month tour of Europe, so I don't blame them for living it up. We watched the sun dip below the horizon with them in Oia and had a farewell feast on out last day in Santorini. By this time we had traveled with Stan and Amanda longer than with any of our friends from home and we grew very fond of them. We might have to stop in Melbourne after all to see them again soon. Either way, we will always associate our trip to Europe with their kind manner and are grateful for their company.
Thus ended our journey through Santorini, Greece, and Europe. I know it is Ithaca Odysseus longed for, where his home and kindred resided. But had Poseidon instead blown him off course to Santorini, a place so close to home and kindred we are sad to see it go, the story may have ended very differently.

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10th November 2009

Sounds beautiful!
I have a new computer, so can followyour trip again. The hard drive went out in my old set. Unfortunately, Zara's picture was lost. I really miss seeing her lovely face each night when I turn it on! Maybe you can put another on my desktop when you return. I am praying for you both. Love you lots! Grandma
29th November 2009

Love your Santorini trip story & pics
Hi Zara and Jonathan, Your trip sounded so wonderful! My husband and I are planning to go to Santorini and Mykonos in February to celebrate his BD. I hope we will have as much fun. By the way, would you please share the name of the apartment that you stayed for 35 Euros a night and any contact info you have? Thank you very much! Cam
7th August 2012
Flag over Greece

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Why such beauty can't be downloaded , this is selfish :)

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