Greece 20 - Methoni - the eyes of Venice/blue seas and wind in the afternoon / we have the place to ourselves

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After one eye of Venice we had to go and see the other one. Sally Sat Nag did her usual car trick of taking us up high roads and down deep valleys. Through tiny Greek villages and high up impossibly narrow roads. We really have to invest in a new sat nag that caters for motorhome proportions. We have had some hairy moments of having to turn round or hold our breath in anticipation we will get through some small spaces. Up to now luck has been with us. The broken window in Suzy has held out too and looks as if the temporary repair will last until we get the old girl home for something more permanent. We have covered over 2000 miles average consumption 25 . 2 miles to the gallon.

We were heading for Camping Methoni. Not an ACSI site but the only one in the area and to be fair it was in the right place within walking distance of the tiny town and within sight of the castle known as the Eye of Venice A watchtower over the Eastern Mediterranean with amazing views of the ultramarine blue of the sea and of the small islands of Sapientza and Schiza. Places sound more Italian here than greek. Again this little town like Koroni passed frequently between Turks and Venetians. During the Greek War of Independence the French moved in and rebuilt much of the town.

The camping site was a bit untidy and looked in need of an update . Many of the caravans there were long term stayers and rather untidy too. The maintenance man was trimming the pine trees which were ungainly and painting the barks white. Outside all the fences and the street lighting were painted the same blue as everything else in the campsite . We did have a warm welcome - 4 euros each to stay , 4 for Suzy and 4 for electric . Park where you like - so we did - in a corner - right by the sea and with an amazing view of the lovely castle. Free washing machine - yes that's right - free washing machine. We did hear him right.

We walked later that day up to the castle . It was a breezy walk along the shoreline. Just lately the afternoons have been changeable . Still blazing hot sun but with winds favoured by wind surfers. The guidebooks confused us. One told us the citadel opened until 7 at night. Another that it closed at 3. One said free entry. The other 1 euro each. It is a good thing that we dont use just one guidebook . They all have a different take on places we decide to visit.

The entry fee was in fact 1 euro and we had the place virtually to ourselves. I found a euro coin on the floor. My first bit of luck . That made a change and it reduced the entrance fee down to 50 cents for each of us . Construction began in the 13th century but the bulk of the work on the massive castle was undertaken by the Venetians. We climbed the overscarp a massive bridge linking one side with the other. This crossed a dried up moat. The first and second lines of defence. With the sun on our backs and burning us a lovely golden colour we walked trhough the prettily named Bembo and Loredan Bastions. A second set of high walls had been erected making them the third line of defence. The castle seemed impregnable from the landward side. Walking through and along the northern ramparts we were delighted with yet another sight of Greek spring flowers. The Land Gate was impressive with its gothic arches and it is said that there are 14 Lions of St Mark in the castle . We hunted for them but found none.

Crossing the eastern ramparts we had a view of the sea with the waves crashing on the rocks a long way below us. Beyond these ramparts partial remains of a Turkish cistern and turkish baths, a renovated powder magazine and a church. We carried on over the rocky ground with the sea always to our right and watched a young lad flying a drone over the site. Out to sea it went and then it flew back. OUr last stop in the main castle was the Sea Gate. Seriously pretty this gate has views out to sea and opens out onto a causeway which links the castle with the Bourdzi Tower on its own island. This is definately one place you can say Location Location Location.

It is magical . There is no other word for it. It has in the past acted as a lighthouse and a prison. It is easy to see and imagine why this place became a stop off for pilgrims on their way to Palestine. It is rambling and huge on a seriously big scale.

I guess the question we have to ask is which of the eyes of Venice we preferred . Each were different, Each were in stunning locations. The emotions I felt at Koroni made it special but Methoni scored a little higher due to the prettiness of the Bourdzi.

We walked back to the campsite via a cafe where we drank our favourite drink - freshly squeezed orange. The owners were trying to work out what nationaliities folks were as they walked by . It was interesting to see if they were right and we agreed with them. Back at the campsite we made the decision it was functional , the showers were clean and tidy and with ample hot water. It wasnt somewhere we felt we could stay but the washing machine was free which gave me yet another chance to catch up with chores . Sadly the washing does not stop when you are on holiday. Glenn is still coughing and the chest infection seems to have taken a hold. We are feeling though that whatever happens you cannot feel unhappy with such beauty around every corner. No Skops owls tonight either so we slept well ,

Whilst I am away I still read my thoughts for the day - todays seemed somehow apt. "The blue sky opens out further and further , the daily sense of failure goes away. The damage I have done to myself fades. A million suns come forward with light when I sit firmly in this world "

What a stunning place to be writing such a sentence .

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