Kolymbari: Hot, Hotter and ...

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This morning was very hot. I had my breakfast out on the street, now that I was staying in Chania's Old Town. Although the sun had yet to reach my table, the air was already heavy and humid.

After breakfast, I went for a stroll around town before heading up to the bus station and buying a ticket for Kalidonia, the peninsula just west of Chania. The bus turned out to be packed with locals heading to Kastelli, but at least the air-conditioning was working.

Taking the old road, we passed through the holiday brochure version of Chania with its seaside resort atmosphere, tacky shops and karaoke bars. These thinned as we came into Meleme with its little airstrip and military cemetery. I couldn't but wonder how many of those enjoying the hedonistic offerings nearby knew of the immense importance of little Meleme and the sacrifice of so many in the Battle of Crete.

With my stop in the middle of nowhere coming up, I pressed the button and stood in the bright sun watching the bus disappear over the crest. Everything was suddenly quiet and, as I tuned my ears to the new sounds, I began to hear birds and the grasshoppers.

Having applied sun cream and taken a sip of water, I set off in the hot sun through the olive groves along side the main road. Winding my way through, I came to a tiny church, its blue roof almost invisible against the sky. A small orange grove surrounded the church, my route cutting through it until I eventually came out onto a wide road.

Keeping an eye out for skinks and cars, I carefully negotiated the 500 yards uphill and turned off back into the olives. Within moments, I was on a wider track and minutes later, in a remote village where its church offered shady seating, water and great views. Ideal for lunch!

A while later, with the sun and my water getting hotter, I continued on a good track through olives and out into the open country. Taking on more water in the shade of some impressive Cretan cypress trees, I headed up hill and found myself standing on one side of a valley, with my destination (at the same level) on the other side. Quickly down and slowly up, I reached the crest, my reward being incredible views over Kolymbari and Meleme.

The rest of the walk was easy - downhill into Kolymbari and straight to the sea front. There, I found a tiny fish restaurant and filled myself with Greek starters, fresh sardines and local beer.

Luckily, the summer bus timetable was in force and so, an hour later, I was showered and enjoying another beer back in Chania's old town.

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