Greece: The final frontier ... Thessaloniki

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After the many bus rides on this trip, we have learnt a strategy for obtaining the best seats with the result of ultimate comfort and sleep (by far the best are the ones in the back of the bus, upper level if possible. These seats are not only comprised of two seats on either side of the bus, but instead, have an additional seat in the middle making up a couch if you will.) Unfortunately, one detail was forgotten when boarding the bus in Trikala: the effects of a large coffee (or we should say a hot cup of ‘Nes’ on a rainy day). Approximately, 3 hrs into the 6 hr bus ride, Ewa needed to use the ‘little girl’s room.’ Generally long distance buses are equipped with washroom facilities, however, when Jill went to investigate she discovered the water closet had been converted into a storage closet, and was completely stacked to the ceiling with janitorial supplies. Ewa looked at her empty ‘Nes’ cup and then over to Jill who immediately responded shaking her head and saying, “Absolutely not!” Ewa continued to ponder the many possibilities and in the end, came to the realization that even though she may go unseen, she would not go unheard. She was going to have to hold it. By the time we arrived in Thesslonika, Ewa was in excruciating pain and was consumed with finding the nearest washroom ASAP. The moment the bus came to a stop, Ewa was out the door and across the parking lot faster then Jill had ever seen her move. When she got to the washroom she didn’t even hesitate when she realized the ‘modern facilities’ were a hole in the floor. A lesson learned: coffee + long bus ride = bad idea.

We found our accommodations, of course, on top of another darn hill (memories of Cinque Terre began to flood back), steep as can be and nasty as ever! However, we were fortunate to be able to appreciate the extensive Byzantine walls of the Upper City as we sweated and cursed our overloaded backpacks (didn't take long to refill after shipping in Italy). Once we arrived and got settled we had one thing on our minds; hair!

After travelling for a month and a half we both felt that our hair did not look nearly as good as it did when we boarded the plane in Vancouver. As we are both used to visiting our favorite salon every 6-8 weeks for a cut and colour we were both feeling a need to revitalize our 'coif'. However, we could not help but observe that the average Greek woman had a full head of dark, curly hair and it only then occurred to us that getting our hair done may not be an easy feat. As Jill calmly pointed to Ewa's roots (light brown) and then to the blonde section of hair (previously highlighted hair), the hair stylist only gave back the 'confused' look. After many more hand gestures we were getting nowhere and therefore, left slightly discouraged, only to return with a translator. Even with the help, we didn't get too far. Apparently, the Greek hairstylist did not see that our roots needed 'touching up'- our natural hair colour is much lighter then the average Greek woman's and so, to them it actually appears already blonde. After managing to convince them that our roots really did require attention, they agreed to 'colour' our hair but only for an astronomical sum of money. It is worthy to note that this sum differed dramatically from salon to salon. It was hopeless. In the end, we bought hair product and Jill left Greece a brunette. It was decided last minute, that there was not enough colour in the 'little tube' that was bought to fully colour Ewa's head (her hair is fine yet thick... is it a blessing or a curse?), and to effectively complete the task, multiple boxes or tubes would be required- which we just didn't have and so, in the end it was decided it was just not ment to be.

We saw the following sights while touring the city:

* White Tower -was once used as a prison, however, is now utilized as a museum and landmark of the city. The tower was located approximately 5 km into our 12 km promenade along the seawall .
* Arch and Tomb of Galerius -our meeting point and landmark that directed us home.
* Aristotelous Square -this is one of the main squares of Thessaloniki and frequently the host of festivals and concerts. It is known for its bottle-like shape which is lined with historic mansions (once home to the wealthy) that have now been converted into hotels and trendy shops. We were fortunate to have chosen to visit during a festival for students and were able to join in the excitement and fun.
* Panagia Acheiropoietos -this 5th-century basilica is the only church from Thessaloniki's early Christian days to have survived, pretty much intact without having any restorations or renovations done. There are mosaics of floral and vine motifs mixed in with colourful birds. Very impressive!
* Ayia Sophia -the largest and most famous Byzantine Church in Thessaloniki; also home to Ewa's epiphany: when she returns to Canada she will dedicate more time to learning about the history and traditions of various religions that exist around the world.


One day was spent strolling through the city . We basically walked from one side of the city to the other, along the seawall (12 km), through urban residential areas, and past many lounge bars (one avenue in particular had many trendy lounges that all looked identical in style and clientele, however were done up in different colour schemes, i.e., red and black vs. purple and white). Their clientale were definitely from one of the higher classes in the city and we like usual did not fit in (imagine lululemon and Jesus shoes, sitting across from True Religion jeans and a satin Armani blouse). If only they could see us on a good day, where we have the option of putting on our Italian bought shoes and bags- we would then, see who would have the last laugh!

There are a couple of really neat things that we came to find from walking along the streets. A favourite would be picking the citrus fruits right off the trees that line the streets or are found in front yards of apartment and office buildings. There is nothing like a fresh orange or lemon on a hot day. Secondly, similar to other parts of Europe, the cities are very family friendly. All social activities are arranged to somewhat facilitate child play dates. We frequently noticed friends enjoying a cup of coffee on a terrace, while their children played on the playground conveniently located right next door. Of course later on, the kids would be able to have a tasty treat from one of the many ice cream parlours that always seem to be in just the right place at the right time.

Halkidiki

After hearing about the many mysteries of the northeastern penisula of Halkidiki in Meteora, we felt the two accessible 'fingers' could not go unexplored. We quickly learnt transportation to the island was limited and buses only ran a few times a week; being the stubborn and ambitious women we are, we didn't take no for an answer and instead rented a car. After a quick phone call to Budget and a moment to confirm our international insurance we were in business. Surprisingly renting a car was easier and quicker then learning how to use the Greek public phones (so appreciate your phone call in Athens Mom and Dad).

After we got aquainted with our 'little green bean' we hit the road (at a slow crawl, with both of us excited and yet, slightly apprehensive of driving alongside Greek motorists). With Jill at the wheel and Ewa manning the stereo and map, we approached and successfully passed through our first intersection all the while managing to keep the screaming and panicking to a reasonable level. The roads were chaos. We later learnt typical driving rules do not apply to Greece (refer to the driving rules below).

Our first destination (finger) on the map was Pallene (aka Kassandra) known as a resort destination for the Greeks. The second finger was Sithonia (middle peninsula) where the landscapes are comprised of forests, grasslands, and mountains. This area is also known for its incredible beaches, which we could not leave unexplored and just had to stop for a 'siesta' in the sand.

In addition to the beaches we visited, we saw a number of tourist attraction including;

*Castle and Temple of Agios Athanasios of Likithos in Toroni -Which of course never lives up to the expectations that Wikipedia (online encyclopedia) has left us with. Therefore on arrival there was a very awkward moment of Ewa exclaiming "Where!??!?! I don't see the fortress!!" and Jill calmly responding "Right there Ewa. The ruins in front of us are the 'remains' of the castle and temple." Ewa still not convinced after we drove around for 30mins "WHERE!?!?! All I see is rubble."
*Windmills in Sykia
*Canal of Potidea -where the peninsula is connected to the country; gorgeous and where Wikipedia renewed there reputation in Ewa's eyes for providing top level travel reviews.
*Chapel of Virgin Mary in Skioni -where The Virgin Mary is believed to have spent her last days.
*Famous holiday resort of Porto Carras - In the middle of Sithonia peninsula, near the village of Neos Marmaras, the place of the 2003 European Union leader's Summit.


And of course, no road trip would be complete without a little 'off roading' adventure. As we drove along the roads Ewa noticed a sign pointing up a hill, indicating a historical site. Jill a little leary of this 'bonus' site Ewa has discovered, went against her better judgement and steered the Green Bean onward and upwards, literally up the gravel road (no pavement whatsoever). We drove up this road (slightly less traveled, off the beaten path) for nearly 10 minutes before Ewa noticed a great viewpoint and wanted a picture. Jill obliging, stopped the car to let Ewa out only to realize the little Green Bean was sinking furiously into the mud. After another 10 minutes of spinning mud everywhere, Jill was able to maneuver the car out of the mud and under Ewa's directions, a u-turn (centimeter by centimeter) was accomplished. This was not an easy task seeing as Ewa's panoramic "viewpoint" was at the edge of a cliff (leaving very little room to maneuver) and the performance level of the Green Bean was miniscule (definitely not like Jill's car (aka Donavon) back at home). The 'bonus site' forgotten, we returned to the paved roads with a silent understanding between us that future 'off roading' was to be avoided.

Greek Driving Rules

1- Honk for Everything
Someone in your way = Honk
Noise = Honk
Leaf = Honk
Happy = Honk

2- Use Hazard Lights As Much As Possible
Hazard lights are underused, and therefore must be used for all occasions especially since they make you 'invisible.' If you need to run into the supermarket and there is no convenient parking, simply stop your vehicle (do not worry if you are in the middle of the road) and turn on your hazard lights.

3- Park Anywhere
Sidewalk, in front of a fire hydrant, dumpster, or in the middle of the street. Wherever you feel most comfortable. You may even park behind someone and block him or her in. I mean you will only be a few minutes right, and no one really minds being completely blocked in. Hah.

4- No Speed Limits
Drive as fast as your car can go. Posted speed limits are merely a suggested speed limit, rather than a regulation.

5- Rain = Free Day
Police do not enjoy getting wet (Greeks refer to police melting in the rain), so when the weather turns ugly look on the bright side, you can drive however you like. No police will be around to bother you.

6- Right-of-Way
In order of Importance
a)First comes a general-of-the-mill vehicle
b)Second a motorbike .
c)Third is a toss up between mopeds and bicycles .
d)Lastly, are pedestrians [vehicles and other motorized machines do not concern themselves with people; they fully know that if they continue with their speed, the pedestrian will get out of their way. As you have the right of way, you may speed and the pedestrian will move faster (and most importantly do not forget to honk).

7- Never Talk and Drive
Socializing is too important to let driving distract you. Therefore, the moment your cell phones rings slow down (with hazards on of course), and pull over (or just drive really slow; half on the road, half on the shoulder with hazards flashing. No one will mind).


One of the luxuries from home we have missed on this trip is spending a casual evening on the couch watching a movie. Therefore, when given the opportunity to watch Midnight Express at our accommodations we both were thrilled for a chance to spend the evening relaxing. Jill did not relax and in hindsight, we both agreed this was probably not the best movie to watch on the eve of taking the train to Turkey. That night, Jill did not sleep and spent the night analyzing every detail of the movie, replaying key parts, and worrying about the upcoming trip. Ewa enjoyed the movie immensely and like always, slept like a baby.

Sending or love

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Photos

The Hill to our Accommodations
We had to climb this every day to reach our accommodations.

Streets of Thessaloniki
Major flats can be found everywhere downtown.

White Tower
On our walk along the seawall, with the White Tower behind us [how tired are you all of looking at the same clothing over and over again? Imagine how we feel].

Local Market
Ewa smelling the tea, to ensure it's worthy enough to be sampled [and was it ever...delicious].

Chocolate Supper
Jill's chocolate treat that she devoured.

Red Peppers
How neat are these little red peppers; we needed to take a photo.

Church
Jill snuck a picture of a monk when he wasn't looking

Church
On our walk, seeing the sights.

Yacht Club
Private yacht club we're sure.

Seawall Walk
Along the seawall.

Jill Driving
Jill driving the little Green Bean, all the while, enjoying a lime that Ewa snatched off a tree alongside the road.

Beaches
One of the many beaches we could be found frollicking in.

Halkidiki
A view of the canal in Halkidiki.

Halkidiki
Another view of the canal.

Halkidiki
Ewa posing by the gorgeous canal.

Little Green Bean
This is a photo illustrating our little Green Bean and his off roading experience.

Greek Driving
And this is what happens when the driving rules are not obeyed.