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June 13th 2005
Published: June 14th 2005
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The Nikolaikirche in Leipzig, site of key Monday demonstrations that led to the fall of socialism in East Germany in 1989.
Today we sandwiched a day trip to Leipzig on our way from Berlin to Dresden. This seemed like a really clever idea until we arrived and realized it was a Montag (Monday) and there was a strong chance that the Gedenkstätte Museum in der „Runden Ecke“, the entire reason I wanted to come to Leipzig in the first place, might be closed for the day. My Lonely Planet guidebook seemed to confirm that it would be.

We saw the Nikolaikirche (site of regular freedom demonstrations before the Wall came down) and Tomaskirche (resting place of J.S. Bach) before venturing out to Runde Ecke just in case. Boy, am I glad we did. The door was open, and the big sign outside said "täglich": daily! (Not only that, but my very own printed notes also said "täglich", which would have saved me a lot of stress if I'd checked them.)

The Runde Ecke is on the list of what great museums should be. The building was previously home to the Stasi (Staatsicherheit, the DDR's secret police), was taken over and preserved by citizens in 1989 after the fall of socialism, and now educates visitors on the extent not only of the Stasi's crimes, but also
Bach slept hereBach slept hereBach slept here

The burial place of Johann Sebastian Bach, at the front altar of the Thomaskirche in Leipzig.
their everyday absurd bureaucracy. The English-language resources were even more limited than the limited resources I've already whined about, but still, it was a powerful experience, and I reckon the Runde Ecke is more important for the German people than for tourists anyway.

I'm sure there's more to see in Leipzig than we could do in one afternoon, but we hit every sight on my wish list and I don't feel at all shortchanged.


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Caring for all its congregation's needsCaring for all its congregation's needs
Caring for all its congregation's needs

The Thomaskirche pays unusual attention to the quality of the sign for its public toilets.
Macht und BanalitätMacht und Banalität
Macht und Banalität

The Museum in der "Runden Ecke" (round-corner) houses a comprehensive exhibit on the workings of the East German secret police, known as the Stasi. Contrary to some guidebooks, it is open daily.


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