Germany 8 - Trier - de dum de dum it's belgian roads again, the Porta Negra and the heavenly singing

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We woke early in the full knowledge that we couldn’t stay in bed any longer. Our neighbour with the sliding door was awake and had resumed his sliding anew. He had his engine running trying to clear his misted windows . Something that sadly failed due to his doors being open and any warm air was quickly escaping. Breakfast was served in Suzy. Disaster – I had forgotten to buy jam and worse still the croissants to serve it on.

We set off after breakfast for the tunnel – 15 minutes down the road. As I got out of Suzy the machine did not recognise our number plates and I had to manually enter our booking reference. Something I loathe doing. Strange – no choice of departures other than the 8.20 we had booked on. We parked out and waited . Our hanger told us we were L and that J had just been loaded . We had to wait for K to go and then it would be us. In the mean time a bus parked up in front of the information board meaning we had no idea what was happening. A few motorhomes moved so off I went to investigate . We were off but only as far as the first passport control – the British one. They let us through fairly quickly but there were long queues at the French control. We had heard that they were holding us up deliberately . Teach us a lesson for Brexit . We were led to the area where they checked that we had switched our gas off and then directed to the French control. We got through and could see why it was taking so long to get to the train. Around the corner booked in at next step – sit in lane 14 until the barrier lifts. We are used to the rigmarole and spent ten minutes chatting to an official who told us she was new to the job. She was still learning and spent part of her time handling freight and the rest on car transfers.

Onto the train – running 9 minutes late. I swear we had caught up that 9 minutes by the time we arrived in Calais. Watches put on an hour it was now 10.00 and we hit the French roads. The rain fell. It fell in bucketloads. Spray came up off the tyres of the cars in front. What have we deserved to get such awful weather? We crossed to our third country of the day - England, France and now the de dum de dum , de dum of the Belgian motorways. They are free but they are awful particularly when the rain was drumming down on Suzy. She does eat up the miles though and before long we found outselves eating lunch in a rather dismal Belgian parking area. Not as good as the French ones. This one was distinctly scruffy. It’s cold , it’s miserable and we have no reception on Glenns phone. We probably jumped ship with providers too soon and will have to change yet again if reception continues to be so poor. It looks Autumnal here in Belgium. The leaves on the trees are the usual shades of Autumn and many have dropped their leaves. There are no flowers anywhere. A real change from our Spring holiday in Greece when everywhere was awash with colour. Luxembourg next and cheap petrol. The garage was just on the border with Germany and all the Germans were there buying up the cheap petrol.We only needed half a tank but couldn’t pass up an opportunity to save some money.

The plan is to continue driving until we reach Trier . Think Romans, amphitheatres and the river Moselle. We see less and less Brits as we head deeper in Germany. Sally Sat Nag is loaded up with all the information to take us to the stellplatz close to the Adenau Bridge in the city. Lets hope we have more success than last time. It poured and we failed to get into the city. Actually looking at the sky we might fail miserably again. The rain continues to fall in bucketloads. What a start to the holiday. The roads opened out and we found ourselves being overtaken by maniacs as there are no speed limits in this part of the world. You drive as fast as you like . The roads are full of roadworks . We weave from side to side across the contraflows edging ever closer to Trier. The open fields give way to forests. Green as far as the eye can see.

As we approached Trier we recognised the road in. It snakes all the way down to the Moselle and the bridges that cross it. Roadworks meant that there was only one lane and like a snail we crawled down that hill. Inch by inch we approached the bottom. Sally promptly told us to carry on and we found ourselves in the wrong lane which meant we had to cross the first bridge. Not a problem – we have come this way before and knew that we needed to turn right as soon as we got to the other side . We followed the river and then she directed us back over the second bridge . We found ourselves on a rickety road with cobbles and in an area that did not look familiar . Then we saw the camping. As we drove down we realised it was the wrong camping. The receptionist – a rather dour and to the point lady told us this was the campsite . Not ACSI , we would have to pay 18 euros and 90 cents plus electricity. What we wanted was up the road and we would have to drive out again and go there. As it was pouring down and I was wet we gave in and paid our money to stay just where we were. Plot 61 , wet , damp, muddy . I trotted back no good I said I want next door plot 60. Nein she said and then went on to credit one bill and start on another one. Not an auspicious start but a place to lay our heads down for the night and to be fair it was on the cycle path/footpath to where we needed to be. The site was a tad rundown and unkempt but we have been in worse and it served a purpose. We tried the showers – they were fine although you needed to pay to use them which galled a little. Then disaster struck – the light on the fridge stopped working. The control panel was dead. Not what you want when you are miles from home with a fridge full of food and no-one to fix it. I cannot remember when we bought it but it can only be 15 months old at the most and only used for three holidays. I feel a letter coming on to Thetford to say it is not fit for purpose . The immediate problem – the wine is warm and the food needs eating.

I guess that any expectation creates a problem . I expected the fridge to work. I want the holiday to be a success but clearly things are still going wrong. However the shower was nice, the rain has stopped . I am left with my saying for the day

“We should accept but not expect” “Whatever comes accept it and the benefit will be that the mind will be peaceful” OK I cannot do anything about the phones , I certainly am stuck with a broken fridge . I could fester and moan but what good would that do. I am here . I am off to see the roman remains tomorrow and I am looking forward to that .

I slept well. Glenn did not. The rain kept him awake as it beat a rhythym on Sallys rooftop. He woke early and lay there listening to the pitter patter of each drop of rain. We got up at 7 . The plan eat early as it was cold and get out before the hoards of Japanese tourists with their selfie sticks hit Trier. The cruises from the Moselle would hit town later in the morning and we would struggle fighting our way through the tours all being led by umbrella or balloon carrying guides. The rain kept off as we walked along the cycle path. We passed a few early morning joggers and walkers and the fishermen angling for a catch. We crossed the bridge built on roman piers and headed for the two wooden cranes that line the river. One medieval built in the 15^th century and the other built in 1773. The first we came to was the Younger Crane also known as the Customs House Crane and then onto the Gothic Old Crane . Two lovely reminders of the past of the city. Then on to the main square. This is a typical German main square with high sided buildings all painted in pastel or buttermilk colours. Wooden oak painted crimson stuck in patterns on the facades. Shops all closed as it was Sunday morning. The first of the cafes starting to put out their tables and chairs . The square was relatively empty giving us the opportunity to take photographs of the art nouveau and art deco building cheek by jowl with typical german architecture. We looked in shop windows at leiderhosen and alpine style dresses. The bells rang out. Not just tinkling tuneful melodies but a combination of those and a big booming bass bell. We saw pretty churches hidden round corners. Trier being the oldest city in Germany has a lot to hold the visitors attention. Founded by the Celts in the 1^st to 4^th century it was conquered by the Romans by the 1^st century BC.

White baroque buildings covered with golden cherubs that would not look out of place on a wedding or Christmas cake. On to the one thing we had come to see. The Porta Negro or the Black gate . This was amazing towering high above the city. Built by the Romans in the 4^th century AD it is the largest roman gateway north of the Alps. It was not always black but built of a grey stone and formed part of 4 gateways to the city. We looked up at it in amazement . How many of our modern buildings would stand the test of time and still be around after 2000 years? We could have gone inside and had thought to buy a Trier card which would have given us entry to most of the major buildings . For some reason we looked at the price and decided against it . Good idea in the long run as the Ponte Negro was well and truly shut today. We walked past the ruins of the amphitheatres and of four baths complexes. Again shut and again the largest north of the alps. We continued beyond the Constantine Basilica a huge complex of Roman red brick. Now used as a church it looked modern in design and not out of place in the 21^st century. Again shut. The only life a few workers painting panels outside . Then the tourists arrived off the Viking cruises and overrun the park and the area outside the basilica.

We are not particularly religious and view churches more for their architecture than anything else. So we could not miss the Dom. Impressive outside in both style and scale . High and lofty – Gothic in parts with statues of Eve and blind Justice outside the doors. Beggars outside as always. Roman styling much in evidence. The cathedral did indeed date back to the Romans and you could see bits and pieces that remained and were built into the fabric of the building. Inside it had been baroqued. Not too much though and some small corners of the medieval building remained. The building even houses what some recognise as the Holy Tunic the vestments worn by Christ when he died. What impressed us most though was the singing. The mightly organ was playing out and the choir sat in front of the altar and sang their hearts out. We did not recognise the piece they sang nor did we understand one word but the music filled the every inch of the church and brought it to life . I could have listened to it forever. Is this not what churches are for?

Confucious said “ We are fulfilled through ritual “ To a certain extent listening to the choir I agreed. “”We are fulfilled through music” I cannot disagree with him on that one.

Walking back to Suzy it felt as if all was right with the world. Surely the rain would stop soon as we travelled ever onward through Bavaria .

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