cobbling Koblenz to St Goar

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skipped a night there in St Goar - it turned out there was wifi at the hotel but I was somewhat worn out after my big eat-a-drink-a-thon at the Mansion on the Hill and decided to try and catch up on some missing sleep/sheep - some hope.

Back in time to Koblenz, which is a major ferry hop on/off point. It was from there I was to go upstream on the Rhein to Sankt (St) Goar - right bank going up, with St Goarhausen on the opposite left bank. The off season for ferry times starts from 3 Oct so we are well into that and only 3 a day and they do not go all the way. So it was the 2pm one for me. I walked down town earlier and man, they seem to be digging up about 40% of it - the woman at the KD boat line office complained it was like this last year as well - it seems the major excuse is a very big flower show here in April 2011 onwards - but it seems a bit like Sydney - they blockade vast areas of pedestrian footpaths with net fences and then do nothing in most of it that you can see. The main sight in Koblenz is the Deutsches Eck - the riverside triangle park where the Mosel river meets the Rhein - a symbol of German unity etc etc. Except when half of it is blocked off by the wretched net fences already mentioned. Then had to walk back to the hotel to get my main bag and walk back - deciding that along the riverfront was probably less blocked than some of the city streets. Only got to the boat with a few minutes to spare. However it was nice settling back in a chair on the forard upper deck in the sun and knowing it was going to take a little over 3 hrs to get to St Goar.

This middle section of the Rhein is a declared World Heritage area cos of all the old ruined (and not so) castles etc. And of course on the steep slopes there are vineyards - mostly facing whichever is the best way for the sun of course which varies depdg on how the river bends. Anywya good opportunity to sup an ale in the sun as we went up against the quite strong current.

As the Lonely Plant had recommended the Hotel Hauser I had rung there the day before so that I did not have a panic getting there for a room. Althought the Thirsty Swagman guy doubted whether there were any rooms there at all there are in fact 4 or 5 hotels - the town population is prob. only about 3,000 or so. Anyway hardly any problem spotting the Hauser - it is about 50m. R from where the boat docks. After LP comment that all rooms face the Rhine - well er - only sideways in my case - and half of that, being on the side, also means the railway which has freight roaring up and down at all hours (I'll take the road noise thanks). Anyway the room was only 32E - and in fact as I paid cash this morning and she could not be bothered making change, or was relieved to get cash rather than credit - she gave me 20E change from a 50E note - so even better.

I ventured out for a walk before dinner and thought to make for the ruined castle on the hill which was up past the youth hostel also on the hill side. There was some sort of hotel there - Rheinfels or something. Anyway decided I might check out their restaurant. By St Goar downtown prices (about 12E for a main) this was outrageous (21E or so - which is what I am half used to paying anyway so decided as the hotel was so cheap that would do (and with a nice high view over the river of course). As I had no booking natch had to sit in a leather armchair in the bar area as all tables spoken for. I did wonder about the 4 course "pumpkin special menu" - salmon with marinated pumpkin, then pumpkin soup, then pork fillet with pumpkin, then a pumpkin tart - but as my preferred entree was the salmon with pumpkin anyway decided to go a la carte and have the deer as a main. The cured salmon was as expected but the very thinly sliced "marinated" pumpkin was rather unusual - as it was not cooked it still had a nice semi-crunchy texture. With this 200ml pitcher of 2009 St Goarer Burg Rheinfels riesling - a local drop I take it. The main was a roasted fillet of fallow deer (which means?) breaded with hazelnuts and the almost inevitable cherry sauce on the plate but also some veges. Nicely pink in the centre and quite tender thank u. With another pitcher but of 2007 pinot noir - unspecified as to whether it was from round there or not. It was pleasant without being jump out of my seat.

After all this decided to chance my arm (and leg etc) and coordination by getting down the winding zig zag path down the hill in the dark, rather than wimp it going down on the road. Managed to get down without falling and breaking anything but there was enough light to vaguely see steps and such.

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Photos

Koblenz gun dog
guarding the window of a gun/knife shop!

the biggest Swiss Army knife
with 141 functions - hardly pocketable!

Koblenz - Deutsches Eck
the Moselle comes in on the left - Rhein on R

castle at Marksburg
the Castle Assocn has their HQ there

St Goar - Hotel an Markt
opposite mine at Hauser

Comments

[Huddo]

Rhein in the Salmon.
Hi Mike, That sounded like a beaut cruise, ale in hand. Hotel and pumpkin meals seemed spot on for you. The "guard dog" photo! That was a classic. Swiss army knife, youch, dont slip over anywhere with that one in trousers. Castle Marksburgh seemed the correct place for their meetings! Love Huddo.