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We arrive in Cologne (Köln in German) around 8 am. It's beautiful day weatherwise. By 9, we are beginning a walking tour of the city. My guide is a young man named Chris who likes to keep us amused with odd little stories.
Cologne (Köln in German) is one of the country's largest cities. For much of its existence it occupied the west bank of the Rhine only. In fact, during Roman times it was a bastion of civilization against the Germanic tribes on the opposing bank. The city now straddles both sides of the Rhine. Cologne was heavily damaged, in fact almost levelled, during WWII. Its famous centrepiece, the Cologne Cathedral, is so large that it was used by allied bomber crews as a key landmark. The cathedral itself sustained heavy damage but remained standing.
Our tour starts at the cathedral. Its dimensions are awe-inspiring. In fact, I can't actually fit the entire structure into my camera viewfinder. This is one of the largest churches in Europe and on the UNESCO World Heritage list. One of its salient features is the dozens of tall and spikey spires that give it a "don't touch me" attitude. The two largest
spires mark the main entrance. Chris tells us that the building is permanently under renovation and cleaning. It's not hard to distinguish original parts from restored parts as the shades of grey are noticeably different. An amazing sight.
We next head towards the river. Along the way we pass the Roman-Germanic Museum, a new building adjacent to the cathedral. Chris tells us that during excavation for this museum, a beautiful Roman mosaic floor that once was part of a rich man's villa was discovered several meters down. It is one of the best preserved in the world, and so they simply constructed the building around it. We are able to peer through a glass window to see it. Two thousand years old and even through the glass its colours look almost new.
Chris tells us that Cologne is today a very young city in terms of its population. Like himself, many inhabitants are students. Cologne has many universities and the University of Cologne is the largest in Germany. Chris also tells us that the Rhine Germans (meaning those who live along the Rhine) are regarded by other Germans as lazy and hedonistic, at least in comparison to the
standard German ideals of order and obedience.
We reach the river and travel along the bank until we reach the Fish Market, apparently one of the liveliest markets in the city. Any building that is original or partly original bears a special heritage emblem, and strict rules govern any alteration or renovation. We then head back into the city to the Old Market. This is the site of one of the country's biggest and best-known Christmas markets during the holiday season. There's a wedding reception under way in the square. Chris tells us that many residents, himself included, have declared themselves "atheists" to avoid paying a tithe off their pay cheques to their religion of choice. However, being an atheist means you cannot get married in a church, so it is very common for couples to be married in a short civil ceremony and invite their friends and family to an outdoor party to celebrate.
Like many German cities, Cologne has its own special beer: Kölsch. It is traditionally served in a tall narrow glass and it is customary to order several such glasses at a time because of their small size. Of course, another thing the city
is famous for is Eau de Cologne, a perfume invented here by an Italian expat in the early 18th century.
We end our walking tour back at the cathedral. I reconnect with Violet, who was on a different tour. We decide that the most important thing is to visit the Cathedral. The cathedral was specifically built to house very special relics brought back from the Crusades: the bones of the Magi. Chris had told me that DNA testing had been performed on the bones, and that these tests revealed that the bones were human, that they were very old, and that they belong to people from the middle east—all consistent with the official line.
I have already described how large the cathedral appears from the outside. Going inside is like passing through a portal to another world. It is a humungous edifice, so large and airy that you imagine it must have its own weather system. Almost a city on its own, except that the residents are long-dead nobles and bishops lying in lavish ornate tombs off to the sides. The bones of the Magi are ensconced near the altar in a two-tier golden box with incredibly intricate
carving. Another interesting feature of the church is a modern stained glass installation in one of the south enclaves, dramatically different from traditional church windows. Small pieces of variously coloured glass are arranged in a seemingly random order that was apparently decided by computer.
We have little appetite left for shopping. We make a few small purchases and then catch our bus back to ship for lunch. The ship departs at 1:15 for Amsterdam, our final port. Sad to think that our cruise is winding down.
Disembarkation briefing during the afternoon. More beautiful scenery along the Rhine. A farewell cocktail party is held in advance of a "gala" dinner which is itself followed by the previously announced disco carnival costume party. Most people have some kind of costume or silly hat. Violet and I had purchased German hats with pigtails in Rüdesheim. Werney arrives in a complete 60s hippie outfit that includes a wig to cover his bald head, beard, outrageous shirt and bell bottoms. The drinks are on the house and the music is mostly from the 1960s and 70s for us old folks. We have a whale of a time and crawl into bed... not sure when.
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