July 2

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Had an early start and cycled almost without stopping to Reims. I used the main roads in the expectation that there would not be much traffic on a Sunday which turned out to be the case. It had only taken me 4 hours to cover the 60 kilometres. I am picking up some fitness. The first three days I have averaged 80 kilometres a day which is more than I had expected.
In the early evening I visited the cathedral in which the kings of France were crowned for many years. I sat for two hours in the cathedral with the evening sun streaming through the west stained glass window. I pondered on the enormous contribution of Christianity through those dark years from the 5th Century to the 16th Century, by which time Europe had gained the technical superiority to give it security from barbarian hordes. The religion brought Greek thought for the very few who were educated, the mystery of the divine for the masses, and solace for all.
The main deficit from being an atheist is not having anyone to thank for ones good fortune.
I stayed the next two nights in a hostel in the centre of Reims which was not a success. It was full of screaming teenagers who giggled and slammed doors through the night. As a curmudgeonly bastard I took great pleasure in banging on their doors at 7 am to seriously disturb their late lie-in.

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