Following the Flight of the Earls- Quillebeuf


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Europe » France » Upper Normandy » Rouen
August 14th 2023
Published: August 26th 2023
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The road from Lisieux to Quillebeuf took me through a fertile agricultural landscape where harvesting was well underway.

There were several climbs to plateaus where the road continued level before descending, only to soon climb the next plateau.

The landscape is not as wild as The Sperrins or Bluestacks. I wonder what the Eatls thought of it.

Just before the final descent onto the flood plain of the Seine I stopped by a field of some luxuriant purple flowered crop. I'd no idea what it was, but the butterflies were loving it. I stopped to take a few photos.

There were occasional small vernacular houses and barns along the little country road near the river. Long rectangular buildings with thatched roofs topped with a ridge of living turf. No doubt the design has changed little in the last 416 years.

I arrived in Quillebeuf to discover that the campsite I was heading for was a car park for camper vans only. Ooops.

I had a bite to eat and explored the narrow streets of Quillebeuf. This is where the refugees from Ireland landed after three weeks at sea.

They must have been glad to touch dry land after battling storms, sea sickness and dodging English ships and territory. Tadhg O'Cianain records that they were down to the last barrel of water, and crucially, the last five gallons of beer.

I don't think history records who was resposible for ordering in the alcohol. I can imagine O"Neill and O"Donnell each saying to the other "I thought you were bringing the beer!".

In fairness given that Hugh O"Neill had to leave a child behind such was the rush to get away, that beer probably wasn't on his mind at the time.

I find it interesting that there's no mention regarding whiskey, so maybe they had plenty of that left.

It's probable that they would still recognise Quillebeuf. There seems to be a heritage trail around the town and many buildings bear small plagues stating the age of the building and a little information about it.

They might even recognise some of the buildings too which predate their arrival.

The far bank is a different matter. It is lined with petro-chemical plants for as far as I could see in either direction. At least two bright orange flares spewed plunes into
one of the blues. one of the blues. one of the blues.

Dont know thiis one. Suggestions welcome.
the sky.

A blue and white roll-on roll-off open decked ferry linked the ancient and the industrial. I wonder how close the modern slipway is to where they actually landed?

As dusk set in I headed out along a track past the lighthouse. I choose a spot at the entrance to a field for my tent. In the misty gloom that had descended the glowing flares looked a little terrifying and evil. I was expecting to have nightmares about Mordor, but had a great nights sleep.




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Traditional barns/ houses near Quillebeuf. Traditional barns/ houses near Quillebeuf.
Traditional barns/ houses near Quillebeuf.

Presumably possible these are similar to thise that existed in 1607.
Old house in Quillebeuf.Old house in Quillebeuf.
Old house in Quillebeuf.

There is a heritage trail around Quillebeuf. From the information signs on many of the buildings it's obvious they are contemporary to the Flight of the Earls.
Ferry across the Seine at Quillebeuf.Ferry across the Seine at Quillebeuf.
Ferry across the Seine at Quillebeuf.

Is it possible this is near the actual spot where they landed.
The Town Hall Quillebeuf.The Town Hall Quillebeuf.
The Town Hall Quillebeuf.

The emigrants had to report to the authorities on landing.
Rouen. Rouen.
Rouen.

View just before a fast descent into the city In his journal Tadgh O'Cianain comments on the spectacular views of Rouen from above the city.


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