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Published: June 26th 2013
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Nice In the early evening we arrived at our hotel in Nice. We would be here for two nights and the entire entourage was looking forward to a little respite from the travelling. The Boscolo Plaza Hotel was probably the finest we were to stay in during this tour. It was quite opulent and you could buy Rolex watches and Armani clothing in the stores next door. The rooms were a little larger than we were used to, indeed, our three Saskatchewan friends, having heretofore been scrunched together in rooms that were a tight squeeze for two, were assigned a suite with a balcony that opened up directly on the Plaza. Very civilized. Within minutes of check-in Cindy herded us across the Plaza and down to the end of Place Charles Felix to a restaurant that Trafalgar was trying out for the first time. She asked us to let her know what we thought of it. I thought it was noisy. The arched roof of the room we were in was made of brick and it reflected the sounds of 48 diners in a deafening manner. The entree was beef stew over gnocchi and while the stew was very good the gnocchi was very heavy – few people ate all they were served. These things, combined with the thrift with which they served their wine, caused several of us to bolt for the door after the main course was finished.
When the proprietors saw that we were leaving they became quite concerned and solicitous. Clearly they wanted to cater to the tour group business. They insisted that we take a table outside under an awning and have the dessert that was intended for us. It was very good as desserts go, and very much quieter than in the restaurant. Still no wine, though. Nice, April 24
On Wednesday morning we were able to sleep in a bit, and had the morning to do as we pleased. I was very eager to get to the Matisse Museum that was a little north of town centre, but doing both that and exploring the sea side was not possible. So Linda and I strolled along the beach in 26°C sunshine and made several passes up and down the wonderful open air farmers market on the Place Charles Felix.
After lunch we boarded the bus again, this time with a local guide, headed for the artist village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, about 10km inland. This is another walled medieval town, whose modern role is as a centre for an artistic community. Its narrow streets are lined chock-a-block with art outlets, many featuring artists in residence. Names like Simone Signore and Yves Montand are associated with the community, Matisse and Marc Chagal painted there and the latter is buried in the local cemetery.
It was all very quaint. The vistas over the surrounding valleys were very lovely and some of the art was very good and it all was very expensive. Back on the bus.
Coming into town our guide pointed out the hospital where Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie had born their twins. So, big wow.
Our day continued with a drive eastward through Nice to the Fragonard Perfumery at Eze, just west of Monaco. Fragonard is a well known creator and manufacturer of scented products that uses flowers and herbs from around the world. The manufacturing facility was open for a carefully guided tour for those without allergies to perfumes, which left me out.
Sunset was near as we ended our busy day with dinner at La Bergerie restaurant on the
Route de la Grande Corniche in Eze. This was a sensation. The staff were exceptionally hospitable, the vistas over the sea far below us were spectacular, the food (lamb) was wonderful and the wine flowed merrily. We sang golden oldies on the drive back to Nice, while a full moon put on a brilliant display as it reflected warmly off the Mediterranean Sea.
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