Avignon

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Apr 23, 2013

Avignon.

Our run today would take us about 200km due south, down the scenic Rhone River valley to Avignon. The valley is many kilometers wide in places and supports a wide variety of agriculture: field crops, orchards, vineyards and livestock were evident. High speed trains travel at up to 300km/h between Paris and Marseille. The valley is framed by rising lands, some quite dramatic in places, particularly toward the south as the Italian Alps are over the eastern horizon.

Cindy pointed out the Cruas nuclear power generating station on the west bank of the river, just north of the city of Montlimar. She reported that more than 75%!o(MISSING)f French electric power is nuclear, generated at 58 stations throughout the country. She mentioned in passing that the French have no idea what to do with the spent fuel from these stations, but would figure something out. Later I found out that some 17%!o(MISSING)f French power is derived from "spent" fuel, so that is something.

Following a brief stop at a services center featuring chocolates made to look like olives, we arrived in Avignon, site of the famous-in-song “Pont de Avignon” which every Canadian child learns in French class at some point or other. Despite having been divinely inspired (we are told) the actual Pont today goes nowhere, all but about 120 meters having fallen down in the 1600's somewhere. This presents no obstacle to local entrepreneurs who charge €8 for a walk out on what remains.

Having forgotten anything I knew about the history of the Catholic Church, which may have been nothing, it was interesting to learn that the Papacy abandoned Rome in 1309, and took up residence in a Papal fortress here in Avignon. This residency, known as the Babylonian Captivity, was to last for nearly 70 years during which time Popes and Antipopes vied for control of the church. I think the Roman guy won.

Anyway, we enjoyed an exploration of the ancient walled city, typically medieval with its narrow, meandering streets disgorging upon a brilliant plaza dominated by the huge Papal Palace. The Palace currently serves as a museum, but we didn’t bother with it, preferring to enjoy the sunshine and ambiance of the day. The plaza features several good restaurants and snack bars, and dozens of artists who present their original – for the most part – works for sale. We committed the unthinkable sin of actually buying one of these, but are glad to have it. Lucy, our friend from Regina, recommended it.

Avignon was also our introduction to a French feature that is found throughout the realm: the merry-go-round. Although we had failed to notice these before Avignon, we were now aware of these brightly coloured machines, tootling away merrily with beaming children aboard, everywhere we went. Loved it.

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