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Published: October 27th 2011
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Note: All the events in this entry occurred back in April 8, 2007. For more updated entries or trips, please refer back to this blog at a later date. An updated entry or trip will NOT include a note like this. Thanks and enjoy!
Since my move from Dijon to Aix-en-Provence (please refer to my blog entry entitled "The Move to Aix-en-Provence" for more information) my travel within France became infrequent, however my life was very different (for more information, please refer to my blog entries entitled "A Day in My Life" and "A Typical Day in My Life While in Aix-en-Provence"in order to see more specific details). There were several reasons why this happened. First, I now had my carte de sejour or residency card, so I was more interested in travel outside of France, especially since I only had 3 1/2 months left before returning back to the US. Second, my mother was trying to discourage me from taking weekend vacations because she wanted me to save my money for other trips and vital needs. Third, I did not have the intellectual resources to help me decide where else to visit in France. Fourth, I was just not
interested in leaving Aix at that point because I was lazy and comfortable being there. Fifth, the TGV station was located outside of town, so I had to take a shuttle there, or take slower trains from the station located in centre ville, which I could have reached by bus. Despite this, neither seemed appealing. Sixth, and finally, my life was much more stable and happier in Aix because of more compatible social and intellectual circumstances than it was in Dijon, therefore the need to travel as an escape mechanism less dire.
Nonetheless, I was still interested in traveling more within France but where I could not decide on where. Then came the week of Easter Sunday-I wanted to do something special since after all, because I was and am still Roman Catholic and Easter Sunday demarcated the day that Jesus was resurrected and the end of the Lenten season. I was trying to think of an appropriate location I could get to just for the day. After doing some research online, I decided to travel to Avignon, primarily in order to see the Palais des Papes or the Pope's Palace. I purchase my tickets online through sncf.fr for
the train. Easter Sunday arrives, and I take the shuttle from the bus station in centre-ville to the TGV station outside of Aix-en-Provence. I pick up my train, and 15 minutes later I arrive in Avignon. I begin my tour by walking past the remnant of the Medieval walls, which apparently are one of the few still standing in a European city. It was lunch time, so I decided to head to a local brasserie (or bar) where I eat margret du canard (duck breast) with sauce poivre vert (or green peppercorn sauce), green beans and pommes dauphinoise (potatoes au gratin). It was my first time eating margret du canard like this, however it was a pleasurable experience. My duck was tender and complimented well with the creamy bechamel, green peppercorn sauce. The green beans tasted nice and crispy and the potatoes creamy with a nice crunchy, salty melted cheese crust.
After lunch I immediately make my way to the Palais des Papes or Pope's Palace. It's a very impressive, huge structure, built in a style reminiscent of most Medieval castles or even of Romanesque churches. It took up an entire plaza, and despite its dark grayish, stone exterior,
I found its appearance quite striking and beautiful. I then go inside and I think I paid 7 euros for my ticket. I think the Palais des Papes does have guided tours and audio guides, however there are written captions associated with each exhibit that will help guide along your visit. The museum is divided up according to former rooms, which are pretty much left as they were found. Captions are with each room in order to designate what they were used for as well as to describe the historical origins behind its construction and use.
The Palais des Papes existed because of the frequent wars that were occurring in the Papal States (what is now part of modern-day Italy) that threatened the Pope's safety, therefore Avignon became the temporary capital of Catholicism for almost 200 years, from the turn of the 14th century towards the end of the 16th century. However, many cities in what is now modern-day southern France had connections to principalities that existed before the unification of Italy in the 1860s. For example, I believe that Nice was connected to the Kingdom of Naples, as was Avignon. In fact, at the time that the Pope
first moved to Avignon, there was a princess I think who was related to the royal family in the Kingdom of Naples, and who also assisted the pope's transition from the Papal States to Avignon. I don't remember how many rooms there were, but you will get a sense of what life was like for the pope, his closest church official and other attendants during his 200 year stint there. You will get to see some of the old bed chambers, as well as the kitchen, dining room, meeting room, reception rooms, chapel, ceremonial rooms related to church tradition, two inner courtyards and also the palace's church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. I spent at least 3-4 hours just in the Palais des Papes. At the end of my visit, I encountered the gift shop, and also a boutique that sold and offered tastings of Chateneuf du Pape. Chateneuf du Pape is considered these days as one of the most prized red wines, but actually started in the Middle Ages as the Pope's private and ceremonial wine production (for those of you unfamiliar with Catholicism wine is often used during the mass to commemorate Jesus' last supper with his apostles
before he was crucified by Pontious Pilot), however wine was a common drink for those of higher social stature from peasants and jongleurs so the Pope most likely had wine with his meals. I did not get a chance to try Chateneuf du Pape while there because it's a very expensive wine.
I finished my visit of Avignon by walking through the streets and along the river, just to admire the architecture. Before my visit, I remember reading that it's quite a well preserved Medieval city, which is something I'd agree with because most of the old walls are still in tact and many of the buildings look like they are in the Romanesque style, including the churches. The only building that seemed to be in the Gothic/Romanesque style was the Palais des Papes, and there were a few buildings away from it that were built from the 17th century-up to the 19th century, but most buildings I encountered were from either the 16th century or before or at the latest 18th century.
It was finally time for me to take the train back to Aix-en-Provence. Once my train arrived back home, I took the shuttle back to
centre ville and then took the bus back to Camille's apartment. I don't remember what we had for dinner that night, but I know it wasn't anything super special. However, afterwards I treated myself to a chocolate rooster I had purchased at a local chocolatier's boutique near my school. Once I thing I noticed once April showed up that many boulengeries and chocolatiers started offered chocolate shaped animals and objects, that went beyond the basic bunny, chick and cross shapes back in the US. I remember seeing chocolate shaped hens, roosters, eggs, boxes, flowers, fish, chicks, lambs, donkeys, horses, etc. For April 1st, April Fool's Day is celebrated however it normally includes the fish, which is why you see lots of chocolate shaped fish. It goes back to the Middle Ages when Catholacism was still an important part of daily life and fish was viewed as an important symbol of Christianity. Beyond that I don't remember the other reasons why the fish is such an important symbol for April Fool's Day in France. However, even today the fish is still an important Christian symbol and also for the Catholic church because it is often consumed during Lent, which is a
period of 48 days when church members fast and/or abstain from consuming meat or a certain activity as a way to recognize Jesus' ultimate sacrifice for dying on the cross to relieve the world of its sins. Therefore, I believe the appearance of the fish, chocolate or not for April Fool's Day is symbolic of Christian tradition and of the Lenten season in regards to its origins, however in today's France, it's now a secularized symbol of historic French identity.
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