Bethune

---

PM Thursday 25th September

Left the Premiere Classe, having sorted our gear out all over their car park and drove about 10 metres to the Carrefour Car Park.

We had two cafe au lait's each to start the day and moved on to Dunkirk proper.

Managed to find the Dunkirk Memorial and cemetery. Column 153, showing the name of Meadows W, which was the first monument on right, immediately from the entrance. This was the name mentioned in my grandfather's travel letter of 1961, in which he says that he was part of the Dunkirk evacuation, and that he had found the memorial to his cousin who had been killed at that time, in 1940.

Eventually navigated the Dunkirk town centre and found our way to the dockside port area. Had lunch in Les Boucaniers and experienced our first proper French Lunch for this journey. Quite vegetarian - being a vegetable croquette followed by endive au gratin, although the latter was wrapped in a slice of ham.

Found our way from there to the beach and the Operation Dynamo - Evacuation of Dunkirk museum. Very interesting.

Having only just arrived in France we the set off and drove across the border into Belgium.
We decided to stop in Ieper and found Old Tom's Hotel next to the Cloth Hall, in the centre. Probably more expensive than we will usually use but it is right in the town centre and has a garage parking facility so we can safely leave the car and walk around. We are only a few minutes walk from the Menin Gate.

Booked a battlefield tour for tomorrow morning,and to make life easier another night at Old Tom's, which helps with looking after the car.

Attended the Menin Gate Last Post ceremony at 8 o'clock, which is the remembrance service that has occurred every evening since 1927, for those that died in the Great War and was astonished at the 200-300 people who were there. Along with the Bugles and Bagpipes there was a Maori Hakka performed by a group of school boys. The ceremony was moving and something I personally feel glad to have been able to attend and show my respects. It left me with some very strong emotions. and the fact this ceremony happens every evening after all these years and the large number of people of all ages and nationalities, similarly attending and being part of it, is quite amazing.

Finally a meal at Poppy's, just along from the Menin Gate, Mixed Grill and Steak, lovely meal.

Mainly sunny 18 Degrees Centigrade

Friday 26thSeptember, 2008

0940 hours set off with The British Grenadier Bookshop Tour of the Ieper Salient. We had been persuaded to take the morning tour, because of a special occasion, at the Cement House Cemetery, where there were to be burials off three recently discovered soldiers. One unknown, one from the Hampshire Regiment and one from the York & Lancaster regiment, the latter two, thought to have died in July, 1915.

This turned out to be the first funeral I have attended without a tie. But, along with several other people we were warmly acknowledged, and it was conducted in a very fitting manner, with all due respects paid. Several tears were shed

Representatives from the two Regiments attended, gave readings and laid wreaths.

As an aside, I am very impressed by the general conditions of the Cemeteries and the CWGC have to be given credit for doing a great job of maintaining them.

Next was the German cemetery at Langemark, which contains 44000 + Soldiers, 25,000 of them in one mass grave, with the names on the surrounding plaques. A very dour place with no flowers. Apparently Hitler visited the place during the Second World War.

Next was the Canadian Memorial for those 2000 who died during the first gas attack. Then Tyne Cot Cemetery, the largest Military Cemetery in the World. Another well kept and maintained site.

Then Sanctuary Wood / Hill 62 to visit support trenches still in place in the woods, with a private museum containing hundreds of items. This was were my Trench Art letter opener was given it's reunion with the trenches, and the (hopefully) attached picture is for Thomas, who very kindly gave me this item as a leaving gift.

On to Essex Farm Cemetery, where near to here was written the poem, “In Flanders Fields” by John McRae. This was the last visit on our agenda, and we were very glad to have decided to see things this way. We could have spent hours driving around and not really known the context of things, which Tanya our Tour Guide was able to explain. For 30 Euro's each we thought it was good value.

Following a short snack we then did the Cloth Hall, Flanders fields Museum, we spent several hours and found the whole place very interesting and informative.

Moved from room 19 to room 17.

Decided to see the Menin Gate ceremony again. Went for a walk to the other end of town and visited the Ypres Ramparts Cemetery a small but very picturesque place overlooking the water of the moat.

At the Last Post Service a small contingency of British Royal Navy, about 30 - 40, and again simply hundreds of people.

Had our evening meal in the square, sitting outside at Petrus, Flemish Beef Stew and Pork Ribs, again, very good.

Mainly Sunny, cool breeze. Not sure actual Temp.

---

Photos

Trench Art
Sanctuary Wood

Dunkirk Memorial
Meadows