Blogs from Ariege, Midi-Pyrénées, France, Europe - page 5

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Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege November 8th 2008

We left Harrogate as Tesco was attempting to relieve the town of its status as the only postcode in England without one of its stores. The battle goes on, as opponents of the store try to understand why a town which already has 4 large supermarkets should have yet another, and one moreover in which more than 30% of all UK grocery spending occurs. We didn’t expect to find more of the same in Laroque. Here we have a struggling band of small shops, all excelling in providing a personal service to their customers, in particular those without cars, or with limited mobility. Although we have a car, we wouldn’t be without our local grocery, VIVAL, where we can get help, advice, and decent fresh locally sourced foods such as cheeses and wines, where we are ... read more

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege November 6th 2008

This is the week when, apparently, England came to France. What I mean is that it has rained for most of the time. Oddly, we haven’t minded a bit. We really do need to get on with things in the house, and now we can willingly stick around indoors battling with the dust that billows as you’re trying to drill walls as thick as your arm, or attempting to part certain floor tiles from the tough cement they were fixed down with some 60 years ago, while leaving others that surround them intact. When the mild autumn sun is shining on the snowy peaks, and the trees develop a New England richness of colour (not that I’ve been to New England, but I’ve seen a few pictures), and there are winter pansies to plant, garden weeds ... read more
Grim kitchen door
Not all of our doors are grim though
Sitting in the atelier for a pause café

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege October 29th 2008

I think you know you’re more than just a tourist when you’re forced into having a haircut. I hate going to the hairdressers, and having got someone I was comfortable with in England, the thought of starting all over again was not enticing. Though not having to pay prices that seemed increasingly silly was an inducement. Where to start? I looked about me to see who had a haircut I liked the look of, and fixed on the owner of the local grocery shop. She sent me off to a small salon in Lavelanet, and when I saw it, I really wasn’t sure. Madame la Proprietaire is all there is. No juniors, no Saturday girl. Just her. She’s a woman of my age, though she looks older (um, I think). She generally wears chiffon leopard skin ... read more

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege October 28th 2008

This blog is mainly for the benefit of those of you who have visited us, and seen the 19th century squalor which has been our kitchen. Well, maybe things aren’t hugely better yet, but we have made a start, having paused for breath after our efforts with the ancient boiler. We picked, as we thought, the only wall in the house which was absolutely flat to fit a run of wall cupboards. With the first unit installed, it became obvious that the wall leaned back at quite an angle, taking the cupboard with it. Down it came, so Malcolm could pack it from behind with battens so it would stand perpendicular. As the wall was uneven as well, even though it didn’t look it at first, all the battens had to be different widths for each ... read more
A splendid view of our lino
Man at work in kitchen
A unit carefully eased away from the wall

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege October 27th 2008

When friend Barbara came to stay, I knew I’d need to have my walking boots in good fettle. And now she’s gone home, the walking boots are having a bit of a rest (DIY calling), but they did have quite an exciting week. We really wanted Barbara to see what a great variety of walking country we have easy access to here. We also wanted to have lots of good food at local restaurants at lunchtime, when the best food is often being cooked. Luckily these two wishes sit very well together. So here’s what we did……. ... read more
Walking near Roquefixade
Looking down on the chateau at Roquefixade....
The next day, out into the Pyrenees proper

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege October 27th 2008

Well, we’re nearly into Spain. We have settled for a couple of weeks about 50 miles north of the Spanish and Andorran borders in the foothills of the French Pyrenees. We came via Carcassonne where we stayed for 4 nights at a charming site in the Minervois wine region. Surrounded by vineyards: sunny and Mediterranean. The change in climate as we motored down from the Gorges Du Tarn was astonishing. In the space of about 30 miles we descended off the high limestone “Causse” down onto the plain around Beziers and the outside temperature went up about 6 degrees! For the first time we had to use the air-con in the X trail in earnest . It felt like we had suddenly hit the Med. Carcassonne was a stopping point to break the journey but we ... read more
Carcassonne gargoyles
Carcassonne Cite
Coffee time

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege October 20th 2008

Now that we’ve acquired a reasonably decent vocabulary, and even (occasionally) remember to use the subjunctive, it’s time to turn our attention to The Gesture. Unless we become fluent in The Meaningful Gesture, our chances of being integrated into society here remain poor. Everyone knows about The Gallic Shrug, accompanied by an insouciant ‘paouff!’, but there are others to consider. Shoulders hunched with hands held wide in despairing abandon means something like ‘Well, I don’t know the Government’s intentions, but then I doubt if it does either’. Give your wrist an energetic shake, whilst holding your elbow fairly rigid, and you might be saying ‘He’s a big strong lad, he is’, or ‘It’s far too expensive’. Or you could shake your head, shoulders and both hands equally vigorously, when you’re in basic agreement, but there are ... read more

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege October 20th 2008

Yesterday we went for a walk with 800 people. We DO seem to be making a habit of these walking fests, but this is positively the last one….for a while. The FF Randonnée (Ramblers’ Association, French style), Midi-Pyrenees branch, apparently asks each one of the 8 Départements in the region to be responsible for one walk a year in their own area, and yesterday was the turn of the Ariège. There were at least half a dozen of us going from Laroque, so we went together. Once there, parking attendants marshalled scores and scores of cars and coaches from all over an area as big as the North of England. We’re easily 3 hours’ drive from Laroque when we first hit the Midi Pyrenees road signs on our way down from England. In the large village ... read more
...and we get into our stride
The matchmaker
The washerwoman

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege October 17th 2008

One of the pleasures of autumn has been the free food. Not because it’s free - not as such. But because it’s the best fun to set off into the countryside, bag or bucket in hand, enjoying the day-to-day changes in the trees as they turn yellow, gold, le Creuset orange and red. It started off a few weeks ago with blackberries and sloes. Blackberries are one of those things we just do better in England. Here they’re sweet alright, but lacking that punchy acidity which makes them so fabulous in puddings and jellies, so I’ve learned to ignore them. Sloes? Oh, I know they’re better when the frost gets at them, but I just can’t wait, and now there’s sloe gin, & sloe vodka, in the store cupboard - remember to turn them every day ... read more

Europe » France » Midi-Pyrénées » Ariege October 17th 2008

First of all, I've given up on the idea of writing a different blog for the time being. I started one and simply couldn't get used to it. It messed me around (not my fault or my computer skills, obviously!) and it was a real toil. So although this isn't really a travel blog any longer, I'm currently remaining here. I'll be contacting you soon to see if you want to remain on the alert list. It should be revised. Ever since we moved here, the kitchen has been dominated by a very large immovable solid iron box-shaped oven,or boiler. This is because we live in what used to be a butcher’s shop, and back in its hey-deys, in the early 20th century, M. et Mme Vergé, the butcher and his wife, produced all their own ... read more
Peering down into the depths of the oven
Inspecting the job
Serious work with the wrecking bar




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