Pilgrimage

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Last night we had a "family meeting" and concluded we needed to regroup--change our schedule and pace, in an effort to preserve our sanity for our last two days. We decided to abandon our Friday's activities (none of which were "must sees" for any of us) and split Thursday's original plan into the next two days. That way we thought we'd get to pick up some things we'd skipped earlier and do it all at a less frenetic pace (right).

We headed out later in the morning than usual--part of the new plan--after first enjoying the most heavenly croissants and pains au chocolat bought at a little "artisan" boulangerie next door to the apartment. It has become a daily ritual for me to go in and purchase our breakfast, making my requests in my barely understandable French, somewhat to the delight of the very friendly young baker. He waves at us through the window everyday when we pass by to and from the day's adventures.

We started off at the Pantheon, quite an impressive monument that we pass almost daily--it's just 5 minutes away from our apartment--but had yet to visit. The classical style building has alternated between being a church or a "civic temple", depending on the politics of the time in 18th and 19th century France. In 1791 it was decided that it would be the final resting place for "the great men of the grateful fatherland", and now 27 French politicians, writers, scientists, members of the Resistance, etc. are buried in the crypt. We saw the tombs of Victor Hugo, Alexander Dumas, Louis Braille, the Curies, Emile Zola and more.

Next it was off to the Montmartre neighborhood, up on a butte north of the city center. We followed the walking tour as outlined in our Rick Steves guidebook in order to "walk among the traces of the people who've lived here--monks stomping grapes (1200's), farmers grinding grain in windmills (1600's), dust-coated gypsum miners (1700's), Parisian liberals (1800's), Modernist painters (1900's), and all the struggling artists, poets, dreamers, and drunkards who came here for cheap rent, untaxed booze, rustic landscapes, and cabaret nightlife."

We began at Sacre Coeur Church, where we climbed to the dome of this gleaming white beacon that can be seen from all over Paris. Then munching on crepes, we walked up and down the hills in search of all the homes and haunts of the Impressionist and Modern painters and other creative types. For me it was kind of a Renoir pilgrimage, since I'd read quite a bit about him before we left, and I wanted to see the places he'd spent time. So we located his two homes in the area (and those of Utrillo, Eric Satie, Van Gough, Toulouse-Latrec, Picasso) and saw the Moulin Rouge, Chat Noir, and Lapin Agile, the Maison Rose, and the site of the Renoir painting "Dance at the Moulin de la Gallette" as well as the the one remaining vineyard in Montmartre, featured in several artists' paintings. Then at the end of our walk, Chris and Drew had an eye-opening experience, as the tour took us through the "red light" district, with its, uh, "shops" and "clubs"...

We ended the day with a fun experience--we met up for dinner with the Bruingtons, Julia, and her beautiful and charming French friend, Camille (think Amelie meets runway model). We went to a crazy restaurant recommended by Julia's mother called Nos Ancestres Gaulliouse (Our Gallic Ancestors) on the Ile St. Louis. What a trip--inside was like a cave, with rock walls, lots of distressed wood timbers, wild game heads mounted on the walls. It catered to large groups, and we all arranged ourselves at one of the many long tables. Massive quantities of food were served, starting with a huge vegetable basket. We just took what we wanted and cut off pieces for our salad. Next was a serve-yourself sausage and appetizer station, all meat main course, cheese platter, accompanied by another large basket filled with fruit, and dessert! In addition, there was entertainment--a guy played guitar and sang bad songs from the '70's intermixed with folk songs (or maybe they were drinking songs--or maybe there's no difference?), while jumping on the tables and getting everyone to clap and sing along. And thanks to the all you can drink wine (also "serve yourself" style--fill your ceramic pitcher at the tapped barrel), everyone was more than happy to go along with it... Needless to say, it was a memorable evening. A good time was had by all, and the parental units enjoyed the chance to chat and get to know each other a bit better. After dinner, the kids took off to hang out until the wee hours (as they've been doing most nights) and the old folks strolled by Notre Dame (even more dramatic lit up at night), across the river, and back "home".

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Photos

Foucault's Pendulum Inside the Pantheon
where he demonstrated the earth's rotation in 1851

The Lapin Agile Cabaret
Note sign with famous rabbit escaping the cooking pot

Cafe de 2 Moulins
..of "Amelie" movie fame.

Moulin Rouge
...just 170 Euros ($250) for the dinner show!