Au revoir in Paris - the dream trip comes to an end.

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Our suitcases are so full! We have not travelled as lightly packed as on previous trips, mainly because we are carrying Peter's art gear (yes, a folding easel, backboard, paper, brushes and paints) and clothes for two climates for eight weeks. But we managed to close the cases before creeping downstairs quite early to catch our UK type black cab to Edinburgh main station. We always allow lots of time and knew we had to convert our e-tickets and manoeuvre around a huge station, but we had oodles of time and I relaxed while we waited for the platform announcement. And waited and waited, and then felt nervous again. Big delays meant that our platform number went up only 5 minutes before departure and the platform was a long walk away On another level. Everyone was panicking and rushing and the lift was full, and even on a major station there are long flights of stairs. Thankfully our carriage was right there and not half a kilometre down the platform, but it was stressful and I saw a lady having an asthma attack from it all and made sure she was OK. We were seated with two minutes to spare and the train slid out of the station...

The route follows the coast a lot of the way south and the sea was sparkling and the scenery bursting with summer flowers and growth. We even saw a poppy field! We went through Berwick on Tweed, after which I assume our own Berwick was named. Eat, drink, read, sleep and the four and a half hours go by and the London suburbs appeared.

This connection was not nearly as difficult as on the way up from France, but we were all alert to make sure we didn’t stuff up and end up in the wrong place. Our train arrived at Kings Cross and St Pancras International is really just over the road, but nothing is simple! As always I rely on seat61.com for detailed and helpful guides. The check-in queue was already long and we were sucked immediately into the chaotic vortex of border security, tickets, passports (twice, to leave the UK and enter France!), getting everything through the scanner, and trying to watch each other's stuff. I always get separated with my pacemaker patdown and this time the woman was training a rookie, so was twice as thorough!

We expected to get to the Eurostar departure lounge and relax and regroup, but the whole area was jammed with people and there was an anxious buzz. We realised that the Eurostar before ours had been delayed, so there were two trains worth of edgy travellers and all their luggage!

After a long wait the earlier train departed, by which time Peter had counted all our pounds and gone off to spend the last coins. It’s a favourite trick of his to disappear at the crucial moment, and sure enough, our boarding opened immediately he left! We somehow fell on board, thankful that The sweaty connections were over. What we didn’t know until later was that the Eurostar network was in chaos all day, with two services to Paris cancelled,a train stuck in the tunnel from Brussels, a dead deer on a line and lots of late departures. Somehow we wove our way through it all without knowing! We appreciate the prayers of our friends!

One funny little incident was that we realised that in the plastic bag of snacks we were carrying, some Eno powder had spilt out of its container and we were leaving a trail of white powder behind us! I could just see the security people saying to one another, 'it’s coming from that old lady' and then they would surround me! We managed to clear it up and still have some eno left for uncertain gastric moments, of which we have had a few!

I was ready to sleep all the way to Paris, but at Ashford, two ladies joined us at the table for four (and we had to fold up our long legs!) and while one immediately went to sleep, the other engaged right away, and turned out to be Australian. We talked all the way and there were so many shared interests. She is an artist and writer who has just completed a PhD on Virginia Woolf, and questioned us relentlessly when she found out who we were and what we do. Her companion was very sick, but Suzanne entertained us all the way! She prised out of me the details of my book and publishing offer, and was very enthusiastic about Ginninderra Press, which was encouraging for me. She also loved the story of Veronica that I have written about, so it helped to reawaken my writer persona, ready for hard work when we return to bring this book to launch.

An easy taxi ride (we capitulate on public transport as we get more weary!) and we were into our last accommodation, which is typically small as are all Paris rooms and we have to take it in turns to open our suitcases!

With a final day in Paris which we refused to plan, it was a slow start. Peter wanted to go and smarten himself up - about time - so found himself a refugee hairdresser and came back looking extremely handsome. We finally settled on St Denis Basilica for our outing and headed out, soaking up the warm sun, to battle the metro underground. We have always loved getting around Paris, and once you figure the metro map it is like a car rally to find your way and avoid going in exactly the opposite direction.

A train and a tram later we were in St Denis, having noted that we were almost the only white people on the tram, and were stunned when we arrived at Place Victor Hugo and saw the church. It has been beautifully cleaned and the intricateness of the columns, doors, stained glass windows, arches and architecture is quite amazing. It is a 12th century construction, although some windows appear to be later. My favourite was the huge blue toned rose window. Peter paid extra to see the tombs of the kings and the famous, like Catherine of Medici. Such a rich place for the senses - the resonant sound, the footsteps on stone, the plush red velvet bishops' chairs, the jewel colours of the windows, the glow of the stonework and the all pervasive scent of what we call Christmas lilies.

We sat for a while and gave thanks for our incredible trip, and prayed, as we always do, for our families. It was a rich and apt way to spend our last day.

Looking for that last special meal, we wandered around the bustling square and chose Le Soleil D'Or, sitting outside under the shady trees in a perfect afternoon. And yes, the meal was also parfait! A slightly flustered woman took our order and then returned with the most delicious pork ribs, home made chips and salad. One of us had dessert (not me) and Peter surreptitiously snapped some possible portrait photos with his zoom lens. Then the long walk, tram ride ( being thrown around by heavy braking for 20 minutes), more steps into the metro and another long walk. That’s it! Time to sort, pack and prepare for what we hope will be an uneventful two day journey tomorrow morning.

I may write some more reflections, but this is the end of a dream trip after a year of planning. We have made it without disasters, filled every day to the max, have thousands of photos and many more wonderful memories. We are so privileged to be able to do this, and I am full of gratitude. We have seen some beautiful places and stunning art, met some warm and generous human beings, and connected with God in unexpected places as well as the spiritual destinations. Our family awaits us, probably with baby-sitting already planned, and I can’t wait to reconnect and pick up our life at home. We are not, however, the same people who started out.

We both have big creative projects to do when we get home. Peter has lots of paintings to do and an exhibition to plan. I have a book to edit and an amazing publishing deal, so we will be busy.

The best thing is that we have been able to do this together, and we don’t take that for granted. We have enjoyed eight weeks on the road in great harmony, lots of laughing and, at times, huge relief at what we have managed to pull off! My husband is amazing and has literally pulled my suitcase along with his own for most of the trip to conserve my lower energy levels. He has driven like a rally driver in two countries on different sides of the road and manoeuvred us down the narrowest and steepest streets I have ever seen. Most of all, he is still an adventurer and I probably wouldn’t have done lots of these things without him. Thank you Peter!

Now to survive the trip via Ho Chi Minh City and home to Melbourne. If you have made it this far, thanks for following along, and start planning your own trip to anywhere!

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