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This holiday was always going to be a strange one. We knew before we set off that we would never manage to get away for our normal 4 weeks holiday. An illness at home had left us needing to be within striking distance of home. We had to keep in touch on a daily basis. We needed to just plan a day ahead and no more than that. Up to now we had managed a holiday of sorts. A little sun, testing out of Gabby, some good food and we had found out we could cope in a smaller space without biting each others heads off. In the last two weeks we have developed a routine and realise that both of us cannot stand in the same place at the same time. We have got used to the cooking arrangements. No microwave, no oven and no I had not really missed them. The microwave always had been too high for me to reach and only worked when we were on electrical hook up. The oven took up too much room, the glass top was held down with blue tac, the grill door always opened when we travelled and the oven door
kept falling off. We have got used to cooking on two gas rings and have used an electric hotplate outside. It has been no hardship at all. In fact it has forced us out most days. We are still learning as we go along though and probably will continue to learn over the next few months.
So what was our plan ? Next stop Valencay chateau, Blois on the aire , the Normandy beaches, Dorothy the WW1 tank at Cambrai, possibly Le Mans and the 24 hour race museum and then the coast at Honfleur. Our first stop would be Valencay with its free aire. Easy to find, easy to park on , it made a cheap parking spot and what could have been a good overnight stop. Ahead of us within walking distance were iron railings, high to keep intruders out. Behind them was the chateau. It lay there in the distance up a long drive flanked by enormous horse chestnut trees. When planted they must have been tiny saplings. Now they were impressive with huge white flowers covering them suggesting a bumper conker year. Just think about that - whoever planted them only saw small trees. They
had to imagine the magnificent specimens they had become.
The ticket office hid itself in a corner . Perhaps it should have stayed there. 27 euros for the two of us to visit. Now I know chateaux are expensive to maintain and money probably does not come from the state but 27 euros seemed a bit over the top. I expected the place to be impressive and gold plated. Once here you have two choices , pay up , grin and bear it or walk away. We chose to cough up the money and see what was on offer. Occaisionally you become chateau'd out. Another example of the ABC of motorhoming - well we hadn't quite got to that stage so thought we are here so we need to visit the place.
The chateau overlooks the Nahan valley and is classically Renaissance in design. It compares favourably against other Loire chateau. It was the home of Charles Maurice de Talleyrand- Perigord to give him his full moniker. A minister under Napoleon he was described as the greatest diplomat in France. I am sure Wiki will provide details of him and his roll under Napoleon. Apparently he was born
to minor nobility who didn't have much money. Some say he was a skilled diplomat . Others that he was a traitor as he lost faith in Napoleon and changed sides. So a man who provokes different attitudes by different people. Bit like Jezzer Corbyn in Britain. Loved and loathed in equal measure. Whatever happened he had a limp, he was forced to marry his mistress and he bought this chateau on the advice of his one time mate Napoleon.
So where do we start on this self guided tour. The garden of circles. Circles for ponds, circles drawn out on the stone paths. A pond, some statuary and a pretty expensive café set in the Orangery. The house itself built of white stone was huge. Many a pepperpot roof on top of turrets. Inside long white painted galleries with large doors leading to the gardens which reflected the sunlight and repelled the summer heat. Paintings on the walls. Strategically placed chairs for the family to sit and enjoy the summer sun whilst looking over the neat flower beds. It was a simple corridor and full of light. Unlike anything we would see in a stately home back in
Britain. It was actually quite refreshing although once out of the long galleries we entered the wallpapered red room, the green room, the blue room completely covered in what looked like the Potteries answer to the willow pattern. The furniture ornate described as in the style of the French empire. A dining room with table set for dinner. It purported to seat 28 diners but there were only 18 chairs. I wondered if it pulled out and extended to accommodate them. Were the chairs hidden away ready to be pulled out when required? The table was set simply. No ostentation of gold plates, golden forks and spoons. Bedrooms with short beds that you sat in rather than slept in. A red bedroom, a blue bedroom, a picture was emerging - a green bedroom full of heavily lacquered furniture. Screens of black lacquer. The work was spectacular and the effect of them stunning in amongst the mundane and ordinary. The cabinet of secrets - why does that make me smile? A cabinet - a small cupboard full of curiosities. Here the cabinet was a room in which was displayed Talleyrands clothing, his medals of honour and his ceremonial swords.
When
you visit a stately home or a castle usually something catches your eye and draws your attention to it. For me here it was the gardens that caught my eye. Think an Impressionist painting painted with the eye of someone who suffers from myopia. They paint with loose brushstrokes adding colour in great swathes. They introduce a misty otherworldly character to the paintings. Well that is what this garden reminded me of. Gentle swathes of pale lilac and pink from the forget me nots, , Californian poppies in pale ghostly whites and creams. Tulips in pastel colours. They all melded into one as they gently swayed in the wind. Punctuating the pastels were vivid carmine reds of tulips. All the flowers of spring were there. I think Gertrude Jekyll would have approved although I am sure that her mate Lutyens would have preferred a bit more hard landscaping.
Leaving the chateau we walked back to Gabby and received a message that we needed to come home. Before we left we knew that a very close relative had been diagnosed with terminal pancreatic cancer and was given a few weeks to live. The hospice had told us we probably would
be fine going away on holiday. We might not manage a month away but we certainly would be safe for a fortnight. So here we were at Valencay and the news came through Glenns mother had taken a turn for the worse. There was nothing else to do but with a sad heart turn for home. We were still a day or so away from Calais so headed for Bloise. On the Loire, a pretty town, an impressive chateau and an aire within striking distance of the town. What could possibly go wrong?
The town looked wonderful as all towns on rivers do.Cafes spilt into the streets, couples sat on the flower decked steps that led into town. It all looked pretty and very inviting to the eye. We found the aire which was barriered . I walked over to the machine and looked in horror . I needed 8 euros in change and when I checked my purse I had cleared the lot out. Nothing but notes and this machine had no appetite for notes. Sometimes you feel the need to swear and this was one such occaision. Luckily Mr Swiss man and his wife were leaving and
I asked if they had any change. They had bucketloads of euros and fifty cents so gave me the lot. Relief - we were coming in and nothing was going to stop us now. However the machine had other ideas. It had a plastic door at the top which was difficult to hold open with one hand. Inside was a number pad and instructions. I put my money in slowly and the machine ate the lot but nothing happened. I waited , pressed the return button and eight euros spilled out onto the floor. Picking them up , I tried again, despair on my face. How do I get this darn machine to work? Just put the money in said Mrs Swiss. I did what she said and it jammed . I lost eight euros and we were not parking at Blois. Still there was a bright side - neither were anyone else . I had jammed the machine.
In the end we decided it was just not worth the hassle. We were fed up enough with life feeling as if it were kicking us in the teeth. After hitting the machine with the ferocity of a Cassius Clay punch I still left minus eight euros and feeling sick as the proverbial parrot. Deflated we set off for our overnight stop Camping Abrias du Perche - something to do with fishing then , at Le Ferte Vidame. What a lovely site and an antidote to a day of misery. The site is off the beaten track. I doubt if many would flock to it as it was out of the way. However, what it lacked in places close by it gained by being quaint, ACSI at only 13 euros a night, hardstandings, wonderful large pitches surrounded by trees and the sound of bird song. A wonderful empty swimming pool , covered and heated. Free Wifi. If there was a fault with it then it had to be the showers. Only two of them and rather outdated. However who needed those the lady owner and her husband were so welcoming, bread and croissants and a friendly dog.
Our penultimate night in France was spent at Camping L'Escale at Wacquinghem. A fifteen minute drive from Calais we chose it over our normal last night stop of La Bien Asisse. We had already contacted Eurotunnel trying to arrange a crossing for this afternoon and were asked for another £126 to change the booking. This was on top of the £88 already paid. Ok lets try again I thought "How about the 6,20 in the morning ?" The same reply came back £126 extra. "What if we wait until 8.30" Result £19 paid and we had our ticket back to the UK for a small amount of cash. So that is how we ended up here. It was cheaper than La Bien Asisse - 17 euro compared with around 22. The cheapness was due to the fact that there was no chateau here nor was there a top class restaurant. There was plenty of hardstanding and a bistro. The toilets were clean, tidy and had plenty of hot water. Reception should have opened at 5pm but no-one appeared. Perhaps we should have upsticks and moved but we hung on hoping for the best. Monsieur DeBacker turned up at 5.30 and opened up in a very laid back manner. We headed for the restaurant and Monsieur DeBacker was the chef. The place was empty apart from us and two screaming children whose parents seemed unable to control them as they climbed over , under and all over the tables. Never again we said.
So the holiday was over 12 days travelled. Since having a motorhome that was a first. It was a holiday with mixed blessings but one we enjoyed despite its shortness.
I leave you this time with a deep and meaning thought by Taisen Deshimaru that summed up the trip -"All things appear and disappear like the sound of an echo, the clouds in the sky, the moon on the water, the lightening, the sea foam, the trail of a bird as it flies or the visions of dreams after waking"
September is not that far off - the countdown to the next adventure begins now.
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jackieandchris2011
Jackie
France
Hope you got home ok and in time? I remember being in France many years ago in a similar situation....Doesn't make for an easy holiday but you seemed to have enjoyed your time in France! Look forward to reading about your next adventure!