Blood Sausage, Volcanoes and Ice Skating


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Europe » France » Auvergne » Clermont-Ferrand
November 6th 2006
Published: November 6th 2006
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SO I have been back in France for five days, and they have been anything but boring. The night I arrived back in Vichy, I got an invite and headed out to Clermont-Ferrand. Clermont-Fd is the largest city in my area, and is nestled in the volcanic mountains that make the quarried stone black, strong and light. Clermont is also the home of Michelin (the tire manufacturer).

Well, I figured I would work off my jetlagged by hitting the town as a tourist. I visited the Notre Dame Cathedral, an impressive dark two-spire church set on the top of a hill in the center of town. It seems all the 15th and 16th century roads surrounding it twist and wind their way up and the church is impossible to avoid. Across the Place Jaude, and a short walk down hill, one encounters the Notre Dame de Port, a wonderful, minimalist church, quite light and a stark contrast to Clermont's centerpiece. This church, though less known than Notre Dame, is a UNESCO world heritage site, and houses many priceless and ornate Baroque artifacts. From there, I scouted out a cafe for my petit crème and did some browsing through the many Moroccan influenced boutiques and marches.

Clermont is the birthplace of the legendary mathematician, Blaise Pascal, and the main home of my university. I met up with some friends who study there and had a drink. (I also made some new friends, as the town has 30,000 students and a lively nightlife).

The next day, Ludo and I took a long hike (and I'll admit, a good car ride as well) to the Puy de Dome, the crown of the Auvergne volcanic ridge. At 1465m (almost 5000 feet), it is quite a view! On a good day you can see Mont Blanc 300km away. When we were there the clouds drifted lazily around the peek and a strong wind blew across the western face. There is a Temple to the God Mercury built by the Romans, who, like the Gallic worshipped from this peek.

One could easily see that that experience would make me feel adventurous, for that night I let Ludo cook me a feast... Boudin Noir and Pommes a Crème. This traditional meal is made of sausage stuffed with beef blood, fresh apples and Chantilly crème. I did it, yes I did (and I am very proud too, for it offended every Canadian sensibility I had!).

As it was Friday night, we headed to the Patinoire for a night of skating French-style - a DJ, strobe lights and music.




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