Paris and beyond - week 2

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This is the second ‘episode’ of another of 'our' travel experiences.

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The collective ‘episodes’ (this merely being the second) describe our journey from our arrival in Paris, France (from the 2nd week of May) for our extended holiday. The second week begins at Bordeaux where we collect a hire car. If you 'missed' the first episode, go here. After that, our destination is unplanned - we'll sort of follow our noses to where the scenery and experiences seem worthwhile. This 'blog' begins the 'nose led' part of the journey. Eventually, we'll find our way back to Paris to depart back to Oz.



We've attached a few pics that give you a flavour of our journey, and some 'flow over' past the dialogue. You may need to manually go to the 'spillover' page to see them. As always, if you want to 'see' more detail in an accompanying picture, click it to enlarge.

Wednesday 27th May - Paris to Bordeaux

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Another's culture is an eye opener. Not only does it challenge the comfortableness of our own (cultural) armchair, it also has the capacity to make us question why we do things the way we do.



As a case in point, French trains. In Oz, the announcements accompanying the departure of a country train are many and varied. You know you're going on a country trip by the announcements, whistles, the last minute scurrying, etc.. Not so in Paris. People made their way to their seats in no particular hurry - but neither did they hang around. The train we were to join was a double (ie., 34 carriages) and our carriage was at the 'far' end. Ambling along, we heard an announcement - first in French, then English - the train on platform 5 to Bordeaux departs in one minute. That's it. No other messages, no whistles, etc. Being still away from our carriage, we jumped aboard and made our way through via the centre aisle. We know what we're used to. But the quiet efficiency of the French train system is impressive.



We found our seats and relaxed as the TGV carries us to Bordeaux. Some 600km by road, the train does it in 3 hours. No fuss, no ticket inspectors, no vendors pushing carts down the aisle, just quiet and relaxation.



At Bordeaux, a tram took us from the railway station to the city centre. We were surprised - no overhead wires. Here, the trams use a 'ground powered system' (the power is located in 'rails' situated between the wheel tracks. And, though 'live', the positive and negative are separated such that people aren't subjected to electrocution. For more detail on this ingenious system look here . And, like Kagoshima in Japan, much of the Bordeaux tram tracks are located in grass rather than gravel / concrete / bitumen. Makes for a much better aesthetic. Given the recent installation of trams on the Gold Coast, we can see that the Councillors must have been drunk when ordering the 'wired' system'.



The apartment we'd booked was lovely and bright (following a recent refurbishment) in a centuries old stone building right in the centre. Around 2000, ex-Prime Minister Alain Juppé was elected Mayor and his tenure began a huge redevelopment/refurbishment of central Bordeaux. Gone are the car-centric streetscapes and in turn is pedestrianisation. For us, it has been too successful. More about that later. In any event, the city centre looks great, is clean, and quite welcoming; a far cry from Australian cities (with the dominance of high rise, privatised spaces and car parking).



Bordeaux - also known as the Port of the Moon - is situated on the Garonne River, just east of the junction with the Dordodge River and close to the Atlantic Coast. We didn't test it, but the water looked more estuarine than 'riverish'. The city forefront has been refurbished into a large paved open space; the term promenade (which it is) seems too limiting. In one area, there is a large 'pool' - a 20m x 50m water filled depression of some 10 - 50mm deep. Being a warm afternoon, young kids were running through having a ball. The week we arrived, there was a festival along the forefront. Marque's were dotted along parts of the forefront and sailing boats were skimming over the river. A great 'entre'.



Though only some 600k from Paris, the weather was summery. Judy's sandals were 'inappropriate for Bordeaux' so we headed off to the burbs by tram to find replacements. Priorities??? Mmmmm!!!! Anyway, the 'burbs' were downstream along the river. Fortunately, a pair were selected quickly (priority = COMFORT, not fashion). We decided to walk back to the city centre (only a couple of KM's) along the river promenade. We ducked into a cafe and lo and behold, they were serving an Irish IPA on tap. Conversation flowed and we learnt of a couple of other places that served craft beer. Woooohoooooo!!!



We got criticised by one of our last blog that it "was all about you drinking, did you do anything else?". Well, yes we did. As we then said - we used the attribute of craft beer as a means to venture into areas we would not have otherwise gone. In the Marias (in Paris) we saw high end fashion boutiques in laneways we'd have never thought to venture. We travelled to La Chapelle, a distinctly Moslem suburb that we would otherwise have not ventured.



Here in Bordeaux, on our journey back to the city centre, we moved 'inland' from the waterfront and followed a narrow lane to a specific location. We would otherwise never visited this lane. Again, like Paris, it was full of boutique fashion and little restaurants. The shopfronts are a sight in themselves. But, topping the 'cake' was that about a third of the shop fronted buildings had Star Jasmine vines trained up the wall. And, they were in flower. The scent on a warm late afternoon was beyond delightful.



We found the intended location, and enjoyed some craft ales from Scotland. To our fortune, the bistro is a 'tied' house and the brewery acquired a Scottish Craft brewer, so this bistro owner decided to offer variety. After the sojourn, we retired to our accommodation via Les Halles (the shopping hall) where we purchased a pre-cooked chicken dish, baguette and other necessities.

Thursday 28th May - Bordeaux

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We awoke to another sunny day - less warm than the previous. Bordeaux was awaiting us .



We are impressed at the way the French recycle their buildings. Bordeaux - the capital of the Aquitane region - has endured less building ruin than many French cities and the city centre appears to (us to) still comprise most 18th and 19th century buildings. But, while the granduer of the city centre comprise some magnificent 'public' buildings, many of the other dwellings have been refurbished (at least on the outside). Typically, 18 and 19th century buildings 'suffered' a stucco or rendered exterior 'coat' during the 20th century. The premise? - don't know why, but assume fashion and maintenance reduction. In recent times many have been sandblasted back to the original with wonderful outcomes. That said, just outside the city centre are more modern structures - several less than appealing to the eye. But, in the city centre, the streets are pedestrianised with historic buildings (of which there are many) forming one primary component of the tourist appeal. The other are the large number of high end fashion retailers. While we sought to peruse the buildings, and 'take in' the history, the hordes of tourists sent us in other directions.



Fortunately, the hordes of tourists don't appear to venture far from the city centre. As we ambled away, we didn't see any 'fantastic' sights - rather, French people doing 'French' things. We found the Botanic Gardens and spent much time 'literally 'smelling the flowers'. Over time, we've learnt that temperate zone flowers - like roses - have a much more powerful scent than when grown in (say) the sub-tropics. For us ex-Victorians, smells like roses do appeal greatly.



Bruce has a distant association with Bordeaux. In the 12th century, Duchess Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henry Plantagenet, who went on to become King Henry II of England. On his mothers side, Bruce's lineage can be traced back to Henry II (albeit via one of the king's indescretions!!!!). For a better overview of Bordeaux, check this out .



We learnt that the Aquitane region - or South West France - has largely been relatively independent of Gaul (early France) and Spain - though forced under their control at various times.



Under the Romans, the province of Aquitania extended almost as far north as the River River. Later, the Gascons of the Pyrenees 'invaded' the current southern Aquitane as a form of defence against the invading Vandals. In the early 700's, the region was invaded by Muslim armies (the moors of Spain) but were defeated at Poitiers in 732. The resultant outcome was an independent region without external control and the deep conversion to Roman Catholicism. The title “Duke of Aquitaine” was held by the counts of Poitiers from the 10th to the 12th century. In 1137 the duchess of Aquitane married Louis VII of France and the district became part of France. But, the duchess divorced Louis and in 1152 Eleanor married Henry. In 1154 Henry II became king of England and Aquitane became an English possession. Aquitaine remained English until the end of the Hundred Years’ War in 1453, when it was annexed by France. From the 13th century until the French Revolution, Aquitaine was usually known as Guyenne. In the 16th century, the dominance of the Catholic Church was challenged by Protestant belifs the Aquitane regions' many monastries became Calvanist (in part due to Calvin's missionary work in the area).



Today, the southern region of Aquitane considers itself Basque, and the food especially reflects this northern Spanish influence. And, the meal we ate this evening reflected the basque tradition of a casserole with sausage, chicken, veal (meats) in a tomato / capsicum / onion and legume base.

Friday 29th May - Beyond Bordeaux

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Today began the unplanned adventure. But, first we had to pick up the hire car we'd pre-booked from Australia.



We'd 'ordered' a VW Polo as we drive the same at home. Though instead of petrol, we selected a diesel (cheaper fuel costs). But, Polo's in France are typically manual - auto cars are at a premium and only typically available on bigger cars. On arrival, we were told the version they had was petrol and would we like to upgrade to a 'better' diesel car. No! We ordered a diesel Polo! Eventually, the office staff rang around other branches and located a diesel Polo at the airport... You drive to airport and change, OK?. Oh, well such is life. As the paperwork was being completed, the attendant asked A diesel Polo has just been returned, can you wait till it is clean, maybe 10 minute?. . OK by us.



We eventually got the car to find it was a turbo diesel, auto, had cruise control and a gps/satnav... SWEEEEEET!!



We managed to get ourselves out of Bordeaux and onto a highway south with only one hiccup. Got confused at one weird roundabout and did what any self respecting Aussie would do - kept left and drove slowly. Not appreciated - beep, beep, beep!!!!



When driving the motorway, we wondered why the French have a top speed of 130km, when the highways are very similar in construction to those in Australia with 110km. How come Europe, with higher unit costs of energy, accepts a greater speed than Australia endowed as it is with energy abundance. 130km certainly eats up the distance. And, being tolled they also minimise the slower drivers.



The night before we'd booked accommodation in a rural gite (self contained dwelling on a farm) near a village called Saint-Laurent-de-Gosse. In relation to any sizeable town, it's in the middle of nowhere. Had we not had the gps, we'd never have found it. But we did and the place is ever so charming, as are the hosts, and the regional location. We'd assumed from the messages sent that the hosts were around all day - the problem wiith a language barrier - but were not when we arrived mid afternoon. So, we went mosying around the pretty countryside. The location is at the foothills of the Pyrenees, and while some areas are flat, others are quite undulating. We've since learnt that it has long been a prized agricultural region due to the good rainfall, productive soils, and many rivers. That said, and unlike further north in areas like the Somme, not every inch of land is farmed. There are many small forested areas. Sometimes the forest is only a very, very wide road reserve. Others follow water courses. And, on many regional roads, (now very tall) Plane trees form an arched avenue.



After exploring the nearby town of Peyrehorade, we ventured along a winding back road towards Dax when we came across an old church - as well as some adjacent ruins. Turns out there has been a church on this site for some 900 years - though the present building was commenced in the 12th century (and, like most 'public' buildings, added to over time). There are several crypts of notable powerbrokers of past times. It appears the centre of power (and hence the church) moved across the countryside for reasons that are obscure to us. This monastry was in continuous use - first with Benedictine monks, then with Calvanists - until the revolution. The monastry proper has since declined into ruin. From the little we gleaned from the historical information (in French), it seems that there are several 'monastic' sites in the region. Instead of beer, this could be our 'vehicle' to see the local landscape.



We found a village and bought some dinner before returning to the gite. We met our gite hosts and we tried as best we could to communicate. Not to worry, it all worked out well. After emptying the car of our bags, we sat out under a blue sky and late afternoon warmth, with baguette, cheeses, beer and farm animals for company (geese, goats, donkey, etc.); an absolute delight.

Saturday 30th May - The Béarn

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To the east of our gite is a small region known as the Béarn, to the west, the Côte Basque-Adour (coast) region. The Béarn is both a region and a political community (of people). While the region forms a part of Gascony (a small part of Aquitane), it was once a political seat of power. And, though the local people (now?) call themselves Basque, for this sub-region they are also peoples of Béarn. For more look here . The (French Gov't sponsored) tourist brochures refer to the region as 'Béarn des Gaves' - the rivers of Béarn. Five descend from the Pyrenees before 'amalgamating' into the Adour; the Pau, Oloron, Saison, Bidouze and Nive Rivers.



After a late start (the weather was gloomy), we ventured west. We headed back to Peyrehorade to where we saw a pointer to Sorde-l'Abbaye. There a large church of considerable age, and multiple 'renovations' is central to a large set of (now derelict) buildings that once housed a very large monastic community. The information board told us that the monastry began in the 10th century and had considerable influence in the region during the 12th and 13th centuries. In fact, we learnt, the regional political strong-men and the church operated together to not only develop the region economically, but also raise taxes on both farmers and travellors (traders travelling through). It was, by all accounts a good partnership. The church developed well, as did the wealth of the ruling family. Inside the church we saw a map depicting the various monastries existing in the middle ages. We were surprised at the spread (and hence, power) of the church in the region. The monastry is situated on the banks of the River Oloron, which not only provided the monks with potable water but due to the river flow rate a source of energy. Then, it was a water mill. This has been now been replaced with a hydro-turbine.



We headed further west to the town of Salies-de-Béarn. For centuries, this town was central to the regions' economy as it had a spring delivering saline water at 10 times saltier than ocean water. Even prior to the middle ages, locals dried the spring water to supply the region with salt. It seems this attribute set Salies-de-Béarn apart from other towns in the region. Where political aspirations or forces challenged the functioning of the local economy, Salies-de-Béarn has a source of income independent of these vaguaries. This continued to the 19th century when imported salt challenged the 'salt economy'. In response, the locals (very successfully) pursued saline hydrotherapy as an alternate source of income (for more on the 'salt' industry here go here .



The consequence for us is a charmingly romantic town still dominated by middle ages dwellings. It's been a long time since both of us have been besotted by a location. While the exterior of most of the buildings have been refurbished to appeal to modern romaticism - albeit in keeping with the original - it has largely not been undertaken in a kitsch manner.



After a sojourn of baguette 'sandwich' and liquid refreshment, we felt obliged to further explore.



Nearby, is another medieval town Sauveterre-de-Béarn. further upstream from Sorde-l'Abbay on the River Oloron, the town is situated on a very high natural cliff barrier etched out over eons by the river. The point for the town is that it provided a natural defence (and tax point) against those seeking to travel north. Like most medieval towns, it was (is) walled. In the glow of the late afternoon sun, little appeared less than pretty. In hindsight, perhaps the prettiness was due more to our current frame of mind than reality. To be sure, it may have not looked so pretty on a bleak winters day!



Setting the cruise control to 'return to our digs mode', we blissed across the countryside towards the late evening sun.

Sunday 31st May - Béarn 'power'

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Having yesterday looked at the 'pretty' Bastides (bastion towns), we figured we ought go to the centre - Orthez. Orthez was for some duration the seat of power in the Béarn. Historically, the Béarn region was an administrative area under the Romans with a centre (then) known as Benearnum (near today's Pau). The Vikings did their thing in the 7th century and the region was (then) largely without a power (or powerful force). In the 10th century, the Viscount of Dax (power brokers of the region) established in Morlaàs a town very close to (current) Pau on the upper Pau River. But, circumstances changed in the 12th century when 'power' was retaken by the Viscounts of Béarn , and the 'seat' was moved to Orthez - further down the Pau River. In the 14th century, Jeanne d'Albret founded a Calvinist university in the town. Like several other places in France during the 14th century, King Charles IX led a religious battle here - but lost. It was not until the 15th century that the protentism was overthrown (by Louis XIV) - in name at least. The population followed a duplicitious path of supporting administrative allegience to the catholics, but practicing protestanism. It was not until the 17th century that the 'power' of Orthez was defeated (in the Neopoleonic Wars).



Visiting Orthez on a Sunday certainly didn't evoke any semblance of it being a commercial hub. But, at least we could wander in relative peace. From it's location on a highish hill (but not too high), we could see how the place became defensible. To erect a castle, the Viscount's took the top of the hill, and established an outer wall with a moat all the way around. Outside the moat was the town itself, it also being encircled by a (bastion) wall. Though remnants remain, much has been removed. Apparently in the 19th century a government edict was issued to stop citizens from harvesting the ruins to build their houses.



After a good wander, we bid our leave and headed for Navarrenx - perhaps the most intact bastide (walled town). From the hilloverlooking the town, it is plain to see the walled village. For reasons unknown to us, today there are no dwellings outside the bastion walls. We later realised that the urban had been developed on the nother side of the river - thus leaving a great tourist icon. Whether this was by intention or accident, we cannot say.



Navarrenx is situated on the Oloron River, on the high side. After the joyous dwellings we'd seen the day before, this was less a visual delight and more a lesson of dwelling history - with several medieval buildings intact. Nonetheless, it was still an enjoyable excursion.



With time on our side, and now being relatively close, we zipped across to Pau. Being at the very foothills of the Pyrennees, Pau is set on a very high cliff overlooking the Pau River. The Pau Castle dominates, but then again the chateaus built adjacent also have an imposing presence. Pau is said (in the travel books) to be a jewel. We'd disagree. We found the buildings quite tired, and little gardenspace to relieve the bitumen and concrete. That said, the city centre around the castle precinct has an ambience that is somewhat more inviting, but still not enough to win us over. We had parked the car at the bottom of the cliff and taken the free funicular to the top. Though tourists were also doing the same, we also noted the number of cyclists using the free service after a great ride down the roadway. Must be Sunday fun for the locals on a sunny day. After a very expensive (and flavourless) cup of tea, we returned to the car and set the satnav to 'home' via the toll road. At 130kmh, the trip didn't take very long.

Monday 1st June - To Bayonne

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We ummed and ahhed as to whether we'd continue to stay at our rural digs or head for the coast. We chose the latter and selected Bayonne. We (fortunately) left late (which was OK with our hosts) and pottered along the 25km to Bayonne. The day was quite overcast, and traveling alongside the Adour River was really enjoyable. The river was estuarine, and without wind, quite mirror-like. As we left Urt (a village on the river) the wide waterway enabled great reflective images of the dwellings and vegetation. All too often we stopped to take in the beauty.



We arrived at our digs (albeit with a bit of confusion from the owners' weird instructions as to the actual abode) and began to settle ourselves into the apartment. After the owner had left, we realised there were a couple of 'issues'.



Marine - the owner - had explained she worked at a chocolate factory that makes high end chocolates for sale across France (and beyond). She left us a parcel of really decadent but yummy chocolates, and 2 complimentary tickets to a factory tour and tasting. Thinking of our ever expanding waistlines, we were intending to pass up the 'offer'. But, as we had to seek information from Marine, we decided we'd 'do' the tour.



WOW!!!! The firm imports solid cocoa liquor from various countries and it was interesting to taste the difference in flavour between the various nations. While a very, very small producer, Venezualian chocolate took the taste 'flag' for us. The firm produces a variety of chocolat products - straight, flavoured, ganache, to name a few. Look here to get envious!!!! The saddest part is that we didn't have big enough tummies to try all varieties. That said, we had more than enough and later that evening decided to skip the meal we'd bought. We just had to make do with vin as a slimming exercise!

Tuesday 2nd June - Bayonne

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We spent the day wandering the city centre of Bayonne. What a delightful town.



Bayonne is centred on the confluence of the Ardour and Nive Rivers. We learnt that when Aquitane was English, Bayonne was the substitute port used by Henry's mob. Bordeaux is some 100km from the coast and the estuary of the Gironde Estuary was then subject to military conflict (as the French kings sought to reclaim lands). During these times, Bayonne was the alternate entry, though the estuary bar caused navigational issues. But, the importance of Bayonne in those times was the basque people who facilitated trade with Spain. We read that Basque 'trade' was a feature enjoyed by Vikings who sought African slaves offered at Bayonne - thus enabling the Vikings to avoid trading into the Mediterranean.



While Bayonne history is fascinating, our pedestrian 'tour' was - for us - more fascinating. The 'old town' lies within the bastide (walled area) and is the city centre as well as tourist central. But, unlike Bordeaux it is not overrun by tourists (at least when we visited). Though refurbished, te buildings remain medieval. Fortunately, the city streets were then planned to avoid laneways. And, while they are a little wider than just one vehicle (but not two), they must then have been considered boulevards. Today these streets are pedestrianised. During the day, only the free electric bus and emergency vehicles are allowed.



We were 'blown away' by the cathedral - Cathédrale Sainte-Marie de Bayonne - not only because it sits atop the hill and is central to the streetscape activities below, but also because it is both a beautiful light fill church and with 'humanity' being central to the current pastoral direction.



Reflecting past traditions, several of the streets continue with specific retail themes; sportsware in one street, high end womens clothing in another, womens shoes in another, and so on. Judy was taken by the womens shoes - if we'd been able to fill another case, it would have been some of the shoes here on display! ... Imelda in training?



For us, Bayonne has many similarities to Bordeaux; it is situated on a river estuary, the city centre comprise a grand set of historical buildings, both have been refurbished over recent decades, and both have a pedestrian-centric focus. A difference is that Bordeaux's buildings are 18 & 19th century of the Parisian style, while the core of Bayonne's buildings are also of the same era but decorated in basque tradition (medieval look alike?). Perhaps a notable aspect of Bayonne (unlike Bordeaux) is that it hasn't been 'disney-fied'; that is, refurbished for sightseeing appeal without the grittyness that comes with inhabitant livability. Where Bordeaux has embarked on their transformation over the past decade or so, Bayonne appears to have begun some decades ago and buildings are progressively being refurbished without the zeal of city fathers intent on achieving a desired outcome. Put simply, for us, while both are notable tourist centres, Bordeaux is plastique while Bayonne has an inherent 'lived in' appeal.

Wednesday 3rd June - Bayonne

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We'd spent a goodly part of the past 2 days in urban. We decided to seek non-urban at the beaches. Ooooops! Ain't no non-urban there now!





It seems the marketing of the Bayonne region has been more about the beach holidays than the central city. Over the decades, the urban spread 'embraced' the coastal villages of Anglet and Biarritz. And, the marketing acronym used from the 1970's is B.A.B. But, the urban spread has continued (surprise, surprise) as the TGV delivers more and more holiday-makers, and the affluent seek 'newer and better' abodes. Now, Côte Basque-Adour represents these three 'suburbs' along with the 'suburbs' of Boucau and Bidart.



Unlike the Gold Coast in Australia, little has been done to 'relax' the beach ambience. That's not to say Gold Coast beaches are relexed places, rather, Council has made the effort to seperate the urban from the beach. So, once on the beach, one could be anywhere. Not so, Bairritz, it is especially is horrible. From the beach front, congested streets of massive high rise apartments spread for miles inland. And, the beach is but a large 'vendor zone'. We walked the promenade, up over the headlands, but there was little that could be said to be 'natural'.



Further down the coast (ie. 20km's), is the town of St Jean-de-Luz and it's lesser twin Ciboure which are somewhat better. Nestled into a large bay, the 'urban' has been further set back. And, there is less congestion of dwellings. Walking the promenade here was somewhat more enjoyable. But, yet, it was still like walking Bondi promenade.



A bit further south again is the border town of Hendaye. When entering, we noted the relaxedness, the less intensity height of the buildings and the low key approach to the town. This is a 'sailing' town as the large estuary has 'miles' of boat moorings. But, look across the harbour and there is Irun - the Spanish town. Right along the harbour are high rises even higher and more intense than Bairritz!!!



We wanted to get away - and we did. But, the experience made us feel so priveliged to live in a country where space allows a person to get away and privately be in nature.



To return to Bayonne, we either had to backtrack or head into Spain and take the inland rural route. We chose the latter. Looking at the signs, and listening to people talking, our venture into Spain tommorrow (to Pamploma) is certainly going to make our heads spin.



From ... Bonjour/Bonsoir - Au Revoir and parle vous Englaise ... to ... buena días/ buenas noches - Adios / bueno adiós and haga usted habla el inglés.



mmmmmmm!!!!!

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Photos

Saucy sausage at Sauveterre
Overlooking the Oloron River

Espaliered Plane trees
The French appear to love pruning their street trees. Here, they have espaliered Plane trees to provide a covered promenade.

Bordeaux (pinched from wikipedia)
From riverfront.
The right 'entry' leads to our accommodation (just behind.

Bordeaux street
What is it about tourists that they 'have' to shop?

Bordeaux cathedral with tram
Note the absence of overhead cables! And, the power 'cables' between the wheel tracks.

Salies-de-Béarn
The old and the new. Picture from early 19th century and today.

Poor old St Denis
An important saint, Denis was decapitated to minimise his 'influence'.

St Marie Cathedral Bayonne stained window
One of several really beautiful windows