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Published: August 17th 2015
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A treat, first class on the train to Bordeaux and thankfully so, because the train is full. Caroline and I arrive at Gare St Jean approximately 12.30 and find the trek to the car rental is rather long, especially in 35C heat. Unfortunately, I miscalculated on the car rental and was 2 days short at the beginning. Rather than change the rental (I had got a really great rate for a 32 day rental and was loathe to make changes resulting in a recalculation) I booked a separate rental for the extra 2 days. Anyway, all went smoothly and we drove away in a Toyota Yaris, Hybrid. After two days, I return to the rental company and am given the same car for the remainder of our time in France (why I had go back in and go through the process again, who knows – the mysteries of car rental companies).
We are staying with friends (Francoise & Raymond) in their guesthouse in Quinsac. And for the next 8 evenings we enjoy wonderful food, great company, so many laughs and a bouncy, slobbery golden labrador.
Our daily
outings normally include lunch, and as always we chant the mantra “if two courses are good, then three must be better” after which we quote our good friend Kathy “Je Suis Balloony” Anyway, our daily trips are listed in no particular order and if I missed one, then oops!
A trip into Bordeaux, around 8km from Quinsac. This city on the Garonne River in southwestern France has a colorful history from the Vikings to a German U boat base in World War II. The old city stretches alongside the river - an architectural dream, and mainly from the 18
th century. The city of Bordeaux was even the seat of Government for a short time in 1870 (Franco-Prussian War) and again for short periods in World War I and II when Paris was being threatened or occupied by Germany. Today, it's the center of the wine industry in south-west France and, believe me, I've never seen so many grape vines. Our trip into the city sees us having lunch at a restaurant Caroline has been to before, La Cagette. For me, this is the Steak Tartare of trip!
Francoise and Raymond join us on the excursion to Dune Pyla, the highest sand dune in Europe. It's around 60km from Bordeaux and although traffic is quite bad it only takes us one hour to reach the ocean. The dune has steps to the top and extensive views across the estuary and of Cape Ferret. It's the end of July there are lots of tourists enjoying the dune, but we climb the steps anyway. Para-sailors are always part of the view; however the day we visit there is only one in the air. Back to Bordeaux via Arcachon which has a very distinct architectural style and was conceived as a holiday destination for the upper 1% of Paris and Bordeaux. We spend a couple of hours walking around the streets of upper and admiring the architecture before braving the traffic back to Quinsac.
Most of our trips start around 9.00am and an exploration of the upper reaches of the Garonne are in order. Chateau de Cazeneuve, an estate that once belonged to Henri IV of France, has been in the same family for hundreds of years and while the French Government assists
with the outer walls of the castle, the inside is left to the finances of the owners. My thoughts are, they are lucky to have kept it after the turmoil of the French Revolution.. This is Aquitaine and area history is is intertwined with that of England, Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine (yes, he married her money), the Hundred Years War and England's subsequent loss of French lands. Still, history has it the castle was once visited by Edward I of England and his wife Eleanor of Castille, yes “Edward once slept here, and yes, another Eleanor”. We take the tour of the castle which dates back to the 12
th century, however the tour is in French, but as with all French young people, our guide does speak English. This puts me to shame as I don't seem to get past Je suis Balloony.
Chateau Malrome has only opened to the public in the past 12 months. I have walked around the outside in past visits, but have never been inside. This Chateau was purchased by Henri Toulouse Lautrec's mother when the short artist, with big talent, was around 19 years of
age, and Lautrec spent many weekends and holidays in the Chateau. Although the tour is in French, a gentleman who looks after the castle speak perfect English and translates for us, we think he is more than a caretaker and probably the owner. As the chateau is a working winery, the tour concludes with a tasting. We purchase a six pack to go!
A train into the Eco Musee de Marquezee on a rainy morning sees the pair of us walking around this living museum. We do find young people who are working to talk to and lo and behold they have spent time traveling around New Zealand and thoroughly enjoyed their time in our country. Several “how to's” are part of the exhibit, such as bread making, soap and how to extract gum from a pine tree. I have no idea what I would do with the latter skill....
The Citadel of Blaye is a fort on the Garonne estuary built as one of three designed to defend the port of Bordeaux. A little commercial with lots of restaurants and souvenir shops, we spend the
midday hours touring this monument and then take the car ferry across the river before returning to Quinsac. On our return journey we stop at Chateau Margaux in the hope that one of the world's finest wine makers is open. However, we're unlucky the winery is much like a ghost town. And rumor has it, we would have to take out a mortgage to buy one of Margaux vintage wines.
The night before we are due to depart Sebastien, our hosts' son, pays a visit and we have a final evening of good food and even better company. Thank you, Francoise and Raymond, and hopefully we will be able to repay your hospitality in 2017.
We're off to St Pierre Toirac!
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Dave M
non-member comment
So far
Looks like you guys are really enjoying yourselves, and lots of photos, too! Weather still excellent - hope it holds out for another month at least - we leave Oz on the 22nd Sept for the UK. How do you know all these interesting facts about places out there, Mr Google? Keep taking the tablets - they're obviously working! Dave xx