Advertisement
Published: July 13th 2013
Edit Blog Post
We didn't want to leave Denmark without visiting another of its cities, so we traveled due West from Copenhagen by train to the city of Odense on Denmark's 3rd largest island - Funen (Fyn). We had to catch a train bound for Esbjerg (pronounced Esbia) because the usual trains heading for Odense were canceled due to a stop work meeting - so had to dash from one platform to another, fortunately escalators were in working order! We are getting quite good at dashing up and down stairs and platforms. Glad we didn't book tickets because they would have been no use whatsoever. Arrived in Odense one and half hours later.
The weather was absolutely perfect the whole time, about 21 degrees - a heatwave according to the Danes! In Odense we experienced a more relaxed atmosphere, slow-paced, green, artistic and interesting. The city historical centre was easy to walk around and lots of sculptures in the parks and of course the wonderful Odense river with its overhanging willows, ducks, cruise boats and fountains.
Odense's 3 prominent townspeople are Carl Nielsen (composer and musician), his wife Anne-Marie (sculptor) and last but by no means least - Hans Christian Anderson.
Hans-Christian Anderson liked to pose
Zoom in on how his contempories described him It was market day the morning we arrived and so after dawdling around the fresh produce stalls, we came upon the Carl Nielsen Museum. We had heard of him but were not that familiar with his work or life, nor that of his equally talented wife, Anne-Marie Carl-Nielsen. The Museum had captions in English which was wonderful because it meant that we were able to learn so much by reading and looking at the exhibits. They were a feisty couple. Anne-Marie was an independent woman who would not be held back by either her husband or her 3 children. She participated in forming the Women's Artists Society and there are many photos of her in her sculpting studio in the process of creating one of her pieces - many were of animals. She looks a formidable eccentric woman with a twinkle in her eye. Carl, came from very humble beginnings and yet rose to become a world renowned composer and violinist. The photos of Carl show him to be a short but attractive man with a keen sense of humor. I would love to have been a fly on the wall in their household! At the end of the exhibition
we sat and listened to some of his music - thus ended our first day in Odense.
The next day we spent following a walking tour around the major buildings in Hans C Anderson's life in Odense. Then we visited the museum dedicated to his life and works. Another excellent museum and more patronized than Nielsen's, especially amongst the younger age-group. HC was also a very interesting person. A tall, not handsome man - Clara Schumann was quoted as calling him "hideous". However, he was a romantic! He also came from humble beginnings but, as with Nielsen, was supported by individuals who recognized their talent. All 3 individuals: Carl, Anne-Marie and HC traveled extensively in their lifetime. HC fell in love with 3 women but his love was never reciprocated and when he died he had a pouch on his chest containing a letter from one of his loves.
On a our third day we took a half hour cruise down the Odense river to the Funen Village (Den Fynske Landsby). This is an open air museum with the purpose of presenting the half-timbered houses, sheds, implements, crops, animals, gardens, schoolhouses of a typical 19th century peasant. People
dressed in peasant costumes carrying out old crafts are present around the village. There are also plays for the children. It was a wonderful sunny day and I imagined how HCAnderson would have used settings like these for his fairy tales.
To get to the Village from the ferry station, we walked through an amazing forest and the cruise up the river was magical with old bridges, trees overhanging their heavy green leafed branches over the sparkling calm river water. Every now and then a duck breaking the reflection - I felt that I was living a fairy tale!
The town museum is also worth a visit and in one of the main streets of the town there is a major archeological excavation underway. Medieval walls dating from 11th century are being uncovered - one of the major medieval excavations in Denmark apparently.
July is a beautiful time to visit Denmark, so glad we came at this time - perfect weather. Odense is a wonderful city to visit!
Advertisement
Tot: 0.059s; Tpl: 0.015s; cc: 13; qc: 32; dbt: 0.0263s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb