Pondering about Prague

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If you had asked my opinion of Prague less than 72 hours ago I would have told you it was a trashy, run down and overcrowded city. The famous Charles Bridge is jammed with tourists, musicians and street sellers and is definitely best avoided. Even the Old Town Square feels as tired as it is old - and that's nearly 1000 years of spanned time!

Whilst there is undoubted charm in the narrow cobblestoned streets of this city, I get a sense that the city's historical qualities have been exploited to such an extent that its beauty is lost amongst the souvenir shops, marionettes and pizza restaurants.

If first impressions last then I would tell everyone to stay away from Prague. That was until about 36 hours ago when I discovered the real Prague.

If you avoid the Charles Bridge, Karlova (the street leading off it) and stay away from the Old Town square as much as you can, you will discover a beautiful, quiet, cosmopolitan city with fine dining, hip bars and cafes filled with genuine people - the antithesis of what you would find on the tourist track.

It was pure luck that I stumbled upon my first great cafe experience in the Jewish Quarter of the city. The Aloha Wave Lounge with its Cafe del Mar beats, its Hawaiian influences and delicious cappuccinos (and of course great cake - see earlier blog entry)

Three times in 36 hours I popped in for a coffee and on each occasion I was greeted with real warmth. The other great thing about this cafe (and other places in the area) is you get quality at a very affordable price. Dip your toe back into Exploitationville down the road and you will pay double for river water.

For centuries, Prague boasted one of Central Europe's largest Jewish communities and this small area, just north of the Old Town Square, was once the centre of Jewish life. The Jewish Museum is worth a visit as are the synagogues if you are into that kind of thing.

If you want to shop in Prague and you cannot deal with the crystal and marionette shops, head to the Palladium a Westfield-style shopping centre complex that sells everything except marionettes (though there is some crystal). All your favourite shops (more than 200 of them) are found inside and prices are very reasonable (particularly if your currency is strong) Opened in October 2007 it is the Czech Republic's largest shopping centre. Opposite the Palladium is the greatest example of Art Nouveau architecture in Prague - the Obecni Dum.

I also had a great dining experience at Brasserie Pravda where I enjoyed the best dinner since leaving Sydney (outside my brother's risotto with peas and prawns of course). The staff were extremely efficient, knowledgeable and friendly.

There are also some great little squares and parks to relax in if you fancy chilling out with a book, magazine or your iPod. The weather has been hot however you can easily find yourself a tree and bench to shelter under or do as the locals do have a picnic in the park.

Prague Castle, which is top of any tourist watch list did not get a visit from me. I'm sure its an incredible structure with great views looking back into the centre of Prague, however when I saw the No. 22 tram with tourists faces literally squashed against the glass of each carriage I chose to not jump on. I wont have any regrets about not visiting it even thought its supposed to be visually stunning.

So where do I stand when it comes to Prague? Its a lovely city (in selected areas), very affordable (at the moment) and the people very friendly, just ensure you stay clear of the pizza joints and the marionette sellers.

Oh and if you intend to stay anywhere in Prague, choose somewhere very close to the Jewish Quarter. There are lots of nice hostels, hotels and apartments which will cost you less than an inferior establishment closer to the main square of the Old Town.

Apologies for the long blog entry. Its off to Barcelona for me tomorrow so its good night from Prague!

To provide you some understanding of cost of stuff in Prague, I paid AU $6.50 for my coffee and cake at Aloha, my dinner at Pravda (entree, main, drinks and a coffee) set me back $40, my lunch at a pub (not in the tourist zone) which was a substantial pig's trotter was $16 (including the cost of a beer). Tonight's dinner (my last night in Prague) at Café Wow was pork schnitzel and chips with a side of green vegetables and a bottle of mineral water at a cost of $17

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Photos

Aloha Wave Lounge
A hip little cafe with great music and melt in your mouth cakes!

Brasserie Pravda
Great food, famous people and friendly faces

Lost in Translation?
I'd hate to think what sort of fun it would be!

Obecni Dum
The Municipal House (in Czech, Obecni Dum) is a major civic landmark and concert hall in Prague. It is opposite the other great landmark the Palladium Shopping Centre.

The Palladium
The exterior of the biggest shopping centre in the Czech Republic

A Franz Kafka Statue
This statue dedicated to Franz Kafka is next door to the Spanish Synagogue and its based on a Kafka description of seeing a young man on another man's shoulders walking through Prague

Night Time in Prague
The Galerie Rudolfinum, this time at night (obviously!)

Entrance to the Charles Bridge
Not only was this bridge jam packed half of it was behind cyclone fencing being repaired!

Its goodnight from Prague
My last night in Prague. Tomorrow its onto the Catalan capital of Barcelona.