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Published: September 19th 2019
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Czech Republic's Windy Summit
Didn't dawdle up there at all. That is the direct translation of the small staging town on the slopes of Sněžka ("The Snowy One," more or less), the Czech Republic's highest peak. There didn't appear to be a furnace, or any heat whatsoever on this day, but nevertheless, I summitted the 1603m high (5259') mountain last Monday under dry but cloudy, extremely cold, and seriously windy conditions. The mountain serves as a functioning ski resort in winter but there was no snow anywhere on the hike.
I had reserved a car, a miniscule Škoda Citigo 5 speed manual, for 24 hours to be picked up at the Prague main train station and dropped off no later than 09:00 the next morning at the Brno airport. Price booked on Budget's website was a mere €16 including taxes and the one way drop fee. The price was a bit deceiving as I had to fill the tank with gas before returning the car which ended up costing ~$27 for the 400+ kms (~240 miles). The car is noted for great mileage but I was a bit shocked and chagrined that it cost me that much in fuel and that I had driven that far. Would have cost about
Objective in Sight
After busting out of the trees. Last cable car to the summit not running presumably because of the wind. half as much to go the entire way by public transport but not sure if it would have been possible in a single day.
To the mountain, Google maps guided me out of the slightly congested city center during rush hour and by ~09:00 I was on the highway heading towards Hradec Králové or wherever the app was leading me. Got to Pec Pod Snežkou ~11:15 and quickly found an alpine shop to ask where the green marked trail (shortest to the summit) starts to the summit. I parked the car (120 Kč for 1 full day) and ~11:45 I was hoofing it on the trail behind Vila Eden Apartments. The trail was an easy grade and it didn't take me long to get to the blustery summit ~13:15, right on the Polish border. Snapped a pic for documentation and motored back to the car, getting there just before 14:30. Paid the parking fee and let Google direct me to Brno.
Not sure if that app needs to be recalibrated for this region but it seemed like the chosen route was not all that great, leading me via numerous, narrow back roads when there were clearly highways the
whole way. Took about 4 hours from Pec Pod to the Brno airport with a long pit stop close by to top up the tank, use the facilities, and down a 39 Kč double espresso. Dropped the car at the parking lot, the keys in the drop box, and hopped on the airport bus (25 Kč ticket good for 60 min on all local transport) just after 19:00 for the ride to the central train station. Caught a tram from there to the hostel and soon celebrated another European high point with 2 pints of Czech lager, 35 Kč each or a whopping $1.50, and a buger.
$US ≈ 23.5 Czech crowns (Kč)
Prague
Ever beautiful, ever bursting with tourists. A day and a half was plenty this time for a free walking tour (Sandemans highly recommended if you can get the local guide, Karel) and recovery from the interminable pair of red eye flights from Seattle then Philly.
Accommodation and food Stayed 2 nights at Safestay Hostel in Old Town, in an 8 person
en suite, quiet dorm for 598 Kč total. Kitchen, good WiFi, optional 75 Kč breakfast but skip that and head
Vila Tugendaht View from the Garden
Hard to believe this was originally built in 1933, later restored after WWII. to Cafe New Imperial at Hotel Merkur for one of the best value breakfast buffets, 190 Kč all you can eat, great coffee drinks and pastries. It's a bit far from Old Town but Prague is such a great walking city. Across the street from the hostel was Hotel Elite, breakfast buffet a bit more, 225 Kč, but it was totally worth it and it started 06:45,
muy importante for my early departure from Prague. Couple other meals just grabbed a 129 Kč kebab plate around the corner from the hostel.
Transport Only transport of relevance for me was airport bus 100 to the last stop at Žličín, metro line B to Namesti Trida close to the hostel. 90 min ticket good on all transport runs 32 Kč and can buy it in the terminal with a credit card. Must be validated on the bus or just before boarding.
Brno
Visited again for the sole purpose of a tour of Vila Tugendhat. Even though I had been thinking about it for months, I almost missed getting on a tour as they are very popular and booked solid for the year far in advance. Best I could
do was latch on to a 90 min tour in German for 350 Kč and I reserved it way back in the spring. For the 2 days I was in Brno there were unfortunately no tours offered in English.
Accommodation and food Last time here there were only 2 hostels. Now there are about a dozen. I stayed at Ruta 80 which was close to Vila Tugendhat but a bit far from the center. It was small, clean, quiet and there's a good DIY breakfast. WFi was awful, however. Total price was 660 Kč. Last time in Brno I was taken to the cafeteria at Moravia University by someone I met on the bus. It's still open to the public and still dirt cheap. Down the street from the hostel is N8, the pub with the cheap pints and burgers. Can grab a huge slice of pizza for 35 Kč or so all over town as well as the ubiquitous kebab. Roy Kebab near the main train station serves huge plates for 115 Kč and took credit cards as I had converted all my leftover crowns to euros, good rates in the center.
Transport Aside from the airport
Wife's Room
Also with nice view. bus, bus 61 (free with proof of train ticket) runs to
dolní nádraží, the lower station, while the main station is under renovation. It's a bleak place, no need to hang here any longer than necessary. My trip from here was to Bratislava, Slovakia on a very late Eurocity train then connecting to a sleeper train to Košice and finally a bus to Užgorod, Ukraine. The train portion was €25, including the couchette, and the bus €7 paid on the spot as I boarded, must've gotten the last seat. Got to Užgorod about an hour late owing to the 2½ hour border crossing which I mostly slept through. Long but comfortable trip.
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Heidi Cusworth
non-member comment
Learn something new everyday
Hi - I had never heard of Vila Tugenhat, what a fascinating history. Thanks for sharing.