Croatia. Beautifully violent.


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Europe » Croatia » Dalmatia » Split
June 12th 2011
Published: July 12th 2011
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Split to Dubrovnik


It has been some time since my last blog. I'm not even sure what to report, what would be interesting and what would cause a yawn. Do I write about my travels or perhaps how I feel about being o/s right now????

I think my last blog was about Brussels. Since then I have travelled to... shit, I can’t even remember to be honest.
Croatia was my most recent trip, sun, swimming ect... this could go in circles for days. It was an amazing two weeks and I would recommend to all that they explore the coast line, which unfortunately was all I had time for, though it was in style I must admit, A Pirate ship, brilliant, yes?

Ahhh Croatia. This was a trip to remember, the beauty and sunshine how can one forget, swimming in the ocean with visibility of over 6 meters. Amazing. Seafood platters for two (which I are on my own) for £15, cocktails for £3, wine tasting, dancing, architecture, a violent gay pride march...

A violent gay pride march...?

Well certainly this requires further detail. I have always been supportive of the LGBT community, I have many friends who fit into this broad description, and have attended many street parades and celebrations. Upon heading Split was hosting the first LGBT pride march I quickly accepted the offer to join. The hordes of riot police set off no alarm bells, perhaps this was the norm for eastern europe? No, it was not.

Surrounding the 300 marchers were police, complete with helmets, batons, full combat clothing and shields, 3 people thick on all sides of the march. The whistles and cheers drowned out the early violent signs. A few times I saw onlookers being dragged away in a brash manner by the police, but still I marched on. We headed into the narrow streets and upon the first corner where the side streets opened I could see why the police were needed, they held up their shields and pushed back at the screaming mob. Hitler gestures were being thrown towards us and the look of hate upon their faces terrified me. There was no specific age or sex for the people displaying utter hatred, I saw children no older than 4, women leaning against their frames, business suits, formal and casual attire. Residents towering above us from their windows spitting down and screaming slander – Die, Monsters. Die.

I tried to leave, however the police would not let anyone leave the confines of the human barricade. The angry mob has closed in behind us and we were all surrounded. In front of me there was an explosion and screams. Tear gas thrown in from the spectators burns my eyes and stung my throat. A man beside me collapsed when a rock smashed into the side of his head. Tomatoes, pot plants, anything the mob could pick up was thrown. Helicopters flew over head and the police did their best to control a situation which was worsening with every moment.

All I could do was shake, and eventually cry. I thought back to the words of warning to ‘be careful, in eastern europe there is no paradise’ I took solace with a young woman who translated the slur and offered me comfort. The crowd was pushed back as far as possible and the marchers were evacuated to the local NGO office. Police blocked off every entrance point.

Eventually I attempted to leave and was strongly denied. I tried another point and used the tourist advantage, I managed to convince the police that I was a heterosexual tourist who had somehow been swept up in the evacuation. I was sent through 3 check points and advised to ‘walk, not run’ home.

Breaking back out into the open I could see the mob had not relented with the evacuation. Hundreds of furious protestors stood waving crude weapons and waiting for the opportunity to release their furry.

All 300 marchers were driven home in unmarked police cars.

There were 10,000 protestors, 80 arrest and 5 people hospitalised.

This was one of the most heartbreaking experience of my life. Not to only witness, but to have so much hate directed toward myself. I felt for the local GLBT community, having to hide their lifestyle choices. I found these people to be courageous and inspirational. All in all, I am proud to have been able to march with such strong hearted people.


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12th July 2011

*shakes head*
That's utterly appalling and severely disappointing. We don't know just how good we have it, here in Australia.

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