I found myself sitting at a table on the terrace of a restaurant overlooking the river on a warm July evening. There I sat, enjoying a nice cold beer with the three companions I made this journey with earlier in the day. It sounds like the typical backpacker scenario. River, outdoor restaurant, beer, travel companions, they all seem quite synonymous with the excursions of a backpacker. Well this particular excursion was a bit different for me as the river was the Neretva, the beer was Sarajevsko Pivo and that morning’s journey was through the war-ravaged Hercegovinian countryside. This was Mostar, Bosnia-Hercegovina, a city blown to bits during the Muslim-Croat fighting in the mid-90s and with an outer image giving one the impression that the war in fact had only ended the day before. Here, I
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