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Published: October 4th 2010
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this is written on the InterCity (IC) train from Anwerpen/Anvers to Amsterdam after I jumped on (just) at 3pm - having jumped off in Antwerpen/Anvers (see later story). The fill in is for yesterday then.
Bit earlier out of the hotel today - but still not before noon. Decided to head up and try for supposed art nouveau area nr Porte Namour. Anyone who seen the masterpiece bldgs form the small area of Riga will be sorely dissapointed by the relatively minor features here - only some small higlights on the bldgs not full on covers like that in the no doubt rather richer area in Riga - this area has quite a few Africans etc now but in 1900 was just freshly built I guess, hence the small features, not the huge Flourishes of Riga!
From there messed around getting after the Grand Square - in proper daylight rather than grey/wettish late afternoon - somewhat getting sidetracked, despite map but no compass on me (surprisingly useful for general direction - N-S etc!). Finally found the Modern/Ancient Art gallery and headed upstairs for the Breughels and Rubens etc - a lot of Rubens away apparently but they are huge
(10 fr high?) and displayed largely in one red room. Had to dash thru the Flemish masters etc and take in some Breughels, incl. prob. his most famous winter square scene you will all know. Not much Bosch but details closeups of the bizarre are the go there! There was a very heavy police presence - and barb wire barricades etc - around the Place Royale - later found out why - see TV news entry under Amsterdam later. Then headed back to the hotel to change into night time clothes - did I say the weather was a fine and tropical 23 deg.? - so shorts and sandals for me today - all Bruxellois always wear a coat or jacket expecting the worst!
Then back to St Catherine area where I had eaten the previous Sat. nite as there are so many restos there - and on Sunday a lot are closed. The one I wanted to get into on Sat. was once again too busy - it was 8pm after all - so decided on fish in a street in which every place offered lobster/homard - its v close to the actual fish market. Not being a
big fan of lobster - its expensive and no big thing in the taste stakes for me - went to the l'Huitriere (the oyster place) - not necess. a big fan of them per se altho will eat them sometimes, like in Taree and if they are from the place that provoked the big class court action which went to High Court !
Decided on the 25E set menu which was more than fine - moules (mussels) St Catherine style - which turned out to be like tomatoey with grilled cheese melted on top - gratinee I guess- which was quite nice. When you get a main of mussels here (they are actually fr. Zeeland in Holland not Belgium) you get a whole cooking pot full - some say actually 1200gms, so a lot! This was followed by a dos (back? =fillet?) of callebaut - couple of pieces rolled in a circle with a creamy sauce on mash - quite nice. As I was being so "cheap" food wise had a half bottle of Sancerre/real sauv blanc. Followed by dame blanche (white lady) which was really a choc icecream sundae in a tall glass. Then home on the metro
street beggar
with 2 pups in his lap - and a bunny behind! - as I have to change half way, times on a Sunday can be a bit slow - I give the vote to Paris metro anyday!
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Huddo
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Bruxelle.
Hi Mike, Yes Riga set a high standard. Great photo's, the St Sebastion one, and the razor gang! Very close shave? Huddo.