Vitebsk

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I slept on-off for the duration of the journey here before the attendant shook me awake (rather aggressively, in fact) to inform me that we were approaching Vitebsk. I'd already set my alarm anyway, so I dozed back off until it sounded.

I swiftly hopped into a taxi outside the station and was driven to Mariya's apartment. It was so amazing to see her again! Despite being a busy new mother, she had made me a dinner of chicken, mashed potato and salad. It went down a treat! We sat chatting for a while before tiredness overcame me and I turned in.

On Sunday morning, Mariya prepared a delicious breakfast, then we set out for a walk around town with baby Nikka and Mariya's niece, Paulina.

Vitebsk is situated in the north-east of Belarus, close to the Russian border. From 1919 until 1991, the city formed part of the USSR, and for four years during World War II, it came under Nazi occupation. During this time, much of the old city was destroyed in battle, while the large Jewish population was forced into a ghetto and subsequently (under false pretences of an epidemic endangering local inhabitants) murdered.

We visited Victory Square, where the Three Bayonets Memorial stands, to honour the 'liberators of Vitebsk - the Soviet soldiers, partisans and underground fighters'. At the centre of the three bayonets, at ground level, is an eternal flame. The structure, and indeed the whole complex, is stunning, and exhumes a very calming atmosphere. I could see myself relaxing there with a good book for hours.

Further along, we came across one of the oldest buildings in Belarus: the Annunciation Church. Originally constructed in the 1140s, it was rebuilt in the 14th and 17th centuries, repaired in 1883, and finally destroyed by the communists in 1961. It was finally restored to it's presumed (although debatable) original appearance in 1992.

Continuing our walk along the Dvina River in the glorious sunshine, we saw the Yakub Kolas Theatre, the Summer Amphitheatre, bronze busts of Marx and Lenin, and the Resurrection Church, which was apparently reconstructed in 2001 by way of brick donations from citizens, upon which their individual names were written. I thought that was a lovely idea!

We hopped on a bus back to Mariya's place, where we chatted and ate all afternoon and evening. I have really missed our chats over tea and coffee. Now I have the added bonus of being able to brood over little Nikka, too! Such a cutie!

Monday and Tuesday mornings were spent at the insurance and immigration offices. When visiting Belarus, it is essential to register with the local immigration office (for a small fee). I'm assuming this is required for all visa types, although I never actually read anything stating this - having been invited on a private visa by Mariya, she was instructed by immigration staff to help me with the process. And thank goodness she did, because I would have been totally clueless! Additionally, I had to purchase Belorussian insurance prior to registration (again, very cheap).

After finishing our business with immigration on Tuesday, we popped to a local supermarket where I bought way more chocolate than my backpack could handle. Most of it will be gifted to friends and family back home. I considered the vodka chocolates especially Belorussian, and therefore ideal as pressies.

I spent Tuesday evening relaxing with Mariya and Nikka, and playing a buzzy-bee chasing game with Paulina, before having a quick drink with Mariya's brother-in-law and finishing my packing. I felt extremely sad to be leaving after such a short time. I missed Mariya so much after she left Korea, and now I have to miss her all over again.

On Wednesday morning, after a wonderfully filling breakfast, Mariya and I exchanged wet-eyed goodbyes as I hopped in a taxi, headed for the train station. I quickly found my platform, hopped on my train as it pulled in, and found my seat. Easy-peasy! No shuffling around looking for my seat number or struggling to climb up on the top bunk. Although, I did have to ask a fellow passenger to help me lift my backpack onto the bed above, as it wouldn't fit under the table.

I settled down ready to sleep, but then started feeling a bit nauseous. I popped a tummy pill, hoping it would kick in quick, so I wouldn't have to spend the next four hours in a smelly train toilet, but soon after, I found myself bent over the pan, throwing my guts up. I have no idea why I was sick, but as soon as it was out, I started to feel better. Strange. I slept (rather uncomfortably) for the remainder of the journey.

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Photos

The Three Bayonets Complex
Victory Square