Salzburg

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We had just one night in Salzburg, and were immediately enchanted. Cold and dusted with snow, it was fairy-tale like on our first night there and transformed by the sun the following day into a charming, riverside town.

Salz=salt and it was a big, huge deal some several centuries back and a great source of wealth. That and some disputes in that part of Europe meant that Salzburg needed protection and so the Hohensalzburg fortress was built in the 11th century. The fortress hangs high above the town in picturesque fashion, as these old buildings do; the medieval center is equally picturesque and charming. We went on a boring tour of said fortress--or at least the first part was boring (though the fortress is fabulous!). I escaped fifteen minutes in by signaling to a guard my distress at being cooped up in the so-called "torture room" where antique instruments of pain were housed, and which felt claustrophobic enough to send me running from the cramped, dark and depressing space. I wandered into an equally creepy and cave-like place, also housed in the fortress: the marionette museum. Marionettes are, as a rule, kinda creepy, but I was intrigued by the "Sound of Music" themed displays. In an effort to ward off chills, I began singing songs like "The Lonely Goatherd" along with the piped-in soundtrack, but went out again after being chastened by the dour man at the front desk, who didn't enjoy my musical contextualizing.

I was starved after my tour and went in search of food. All I could find before dinner (other than beer and pretzels, which were ubiquitous) were the "Mozartkugel" or "Mozartbonbon" a confection of chocolate, pistachio marzipan, and who knows what else. This is a local specialty and is considered a must-eat while in there. The candy is named honor of Mozart, who was born in Salzburg; Mozart's likeness adorns the foil wrapping of many brands. Apparently, it is the Furst brand which is the original and best, but first I started with some red wrapped Mozartballs. It was one of the worst things I'd ever eaten. After spitting out the first one, I visited another shop, determined to try again. This shop was one of a very famous Austrian chain that specializes in these candies and others, so I also bought some chocolate mints. All disgusting. How could such a nice city have such bad treats? Why are these Mozart balls so famous?

Forget about the Mozartbonbons! There's lots to do in Salzburg, but we barely scratched the surface (music, hiking, cycling). I'd return one day to do one of the "Sound of Music" bus tours, just so as to see this beautiful place again--a place so lovely that it makes me want to sing!

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Photos

Salzburg
The view from above the city, in Fortress Hohensalzburg

Salzburg
Bridge over the Salzach River. Salz=salt; ach: old German term for river.

Salzburg
The old city center

Hohensalzburg
Climbing up to the top

Salzburg
View from the fortress Hohensalzburg

Fortress
Again, from the top

Creepy marionettes
The Von Trapp clan...I think

Fortress
Looking up from below

Hohensalzburg fortress
The view from below

Fortress
Another view from the top

Salzburg
In the old town, a giant chess board was set up. The boys played--I don't know who won.