Blogs from Albania, Europe - page 4

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Europe » Albania October 5th 2022

Monday - in the morning, after the previous evening's cloud-mist, the setting of the hotel looked positively idyllic. What a shame that the hotel breakfast was the worst of the trip - fried eggs which had been fried some time earlier and then just left out on a cold plate anyone? (OK, yes there were other things too but nothing appetising). Dropping down the mountain side we stopped at the coastal town of Vlore for a coffee stop... and an opportunity for a nice pastry to make up for the appalling breakfast. Flag Square in Vlore was where the Albanian flag was raised in 1912 when Albania became independent, represented by an impressive monument erected during the communist era. So, although the monument celebrated events in 1912 the figures shown, in pose and in dress style, ... read more
Vlore - Independence Monument
Vlore
Salt

Europe » Albania October 3rd 2022

Saturday, and Alfred had us leaving Gjirokastra at an unfeasibly early time. Oh, a 7.50 am start. But it was worth it because first stop of the day was at The Blue Eye (specifically Blue Eye - south, because there is another Blue Eye in the northern Albanian alps, walkable from Theth where we were a couple of weeks ago). By being early we beat all the crowds, because by all accounts, it can get very busy (and there were many people heading to the attraction whilst we were leaving). The Blue Eye is karst in origin and emits water at an alarming rate. Beautifully clear water, as it should be as it has been filtered through limestone. It has a very distinctive "blue eye" at its heart, with the bottom being 50 metres below the ... read more
Blue Eye wildlife
Disused fish tanks
At the Blue Eye

Europe » Albania October 3rd 2022

Arriving in Athens, then a quick flight to Tirana, the capital of Albania. Our plan was to take a multi day hike in the North which included a ferry and then into the Albanian Alps. Trying to escape the forecasted rain we quickly moved on to Shkoder, a 2 hour bus ride north to catch the ferry. Still trying to decide whether or not to do the hike, we received notice that the ferry was cancelled, due to low water levels! So, a quick change of plans and we were able to rent a car and decided to drive to Dubrovnik, Croatia, 4 hours away. Considering we made this decision Sat afternoon, we were able to contact the one of 2 car rental places in Shkoder, and actually managed to pick up a car on Sunday ... read more
Dubrovnik- a beautiful day walking the wall
Pile gate into Dubrovnik walled city
Dubrovnik bay entry

Europe » Albania October 2nd 2022

We said in a previous blog, we think, that there are two things you get on every Explore trip - ruins and churches. At that time we forgot the third. That is... at least one "today will be a long drive" with a full body massage freely included. Thursday was that day for this trip, consisting of 3 or 4 long drives. Remember also a couple of blogs ago the reference to Paul's "interesting" roads and Pip's "do we really need to do this"? Most of the first half of Thursday's long miles fell into this category. Whilst the road was not rocky or gravelly the tarmac was at best nominal, with the bus' axis wheelbase surely being wider than what tarmac did actually exist. Even Paul admitted that Thursday's drive might have been "too interesting" ... read more
Korca Orthodox Church
Korca
Kamenica

Europe » Albania September 28th 2022

Tuesday morning - the group started in Tirana in the morning. Not an early start as the first place was the National History Museum which didn't open until 9am. Alfred had booked us a museum guide, the best one he reckoned. And very good he was too. The museum is arranged over 3 floors and clearly arranged chronologically. It contains some impressive artefacts from Albania's history, from prehistoric times to the relatively present day. But the services of the guide were really needed as there was very little in the way of English captions. Some of the artefacts seen are in the photos. The guide described one of these - an embroidered funeral shroud - as being rated one of the best medieval objects in existence. When it was displayed at the Louvre a while back ... read more
Tirana History Museum
Tirana History Museum
Tirana History Museum

Europe » Albania September 27th 2022

Monday morning and the whole Explore group assembled, the late-comer having arrived at around 3am. Kicked the trip off with a couple of hours Walking Tour of the city centre. Very useful as we had thought to find the Tirana Free Walking Tour possibly on our return next week, but now no need to do so. Starting in Skanderbeg Square this is dedicated to and dominated by a statue of Albania's 15th C national hero. More on him after Tuesday's visit to the National History Museum. Our guide, Alfred, was very forthcoming about what he saw as the "limitations" and the "problems" associated with the explosion in development in the city centre. This included:- - That the Skanderbeg Square was previously a pleasant green open space before the mayor had it made-over at a cost of ... read more
Orthodox Cathedral
Orthodox Cathedral
Catholic Cathedral

Europe » Albania September 26th 2022

The journey back over the long and winding road from Theth to the main SH1 highway on Saturday morning was a comparative doddle compared to the drive over on Wednesday. Maybe it was the time of day, who knows. However, the main highway was as if everyone and their dog had bought their car out for a drive. We had extended sections of driving at barely 40 or 50 km per hour for most of the journey back towards Tirana. You can almost understand the impatience of some drivers and why they overtake in stupid positions. Remember our reference in Albania blog 1 to the number of roadside flowers. And, along one stretch of road there was a hold up. As we approached we passed a small car stopped in the middle of the road, facing ... read more
Tirana Airport
What's this monstrosity
Our Tirana Hotel

Europe » Albania September 23rd 2022

Many years ago, decades in fact, when we were travelling by car in France, the traffic rules there were quite different from today. In particular, cars, even when trundling along at speed on a major road, were expected to give way to vehicles joining from side roads on the right. As a result, when driving there Paul, who essentially does all the driving when we are overseas (except when he breaks his wrist bungee jumping - see blog from 2015), developed the "French twitch" - an instinctive slight turn of the steering wheel to the left when passing junctions with traffic on them. Fast forward to now and we have the "Albanian twitch". This in part is because the quality of driving is such that several times whilst in urban areas cars have muscled their way ... read more
Coincidence
Bujtina-Polia-Theth
Breakfast view

Europe » Albania September 20th 2022

Many of you will be aware of The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy books, written by Douglas Adams. In that book the entry for Earth was simply "Mostly harmless". Fewer of you, though, will be aware that the title idea for that work of fiction derived from a travel book from 1971 - The Hitchhiker's Guide to Europe, a book which Paul used for hitching in Europe in his university years (and which we still have on the bookshelf in the study). In the chapter "Communist Countries" - a sign of the times back then - the entire entry for Albania reads simply "Forget it." Things have changed now, especially since the end of communist dictator Enver Hoxha's leadership in the early 1990s, and Albania is regarded as a current up and coming travel hot spot. ... read more
Unknown monument
Rozafa Castle
Rozafa Castle

Europe » Albania » North August 28th 2022

The father of the guesthouse owner in Drelaj showed me some photographs in a book that he had written about the Kosovo war, or more specifically the village's part in it. Amongst other things they showed all the houses burnt out and a cave in the mountainside where the villagers had hidden while the Serbian army swept through the village. Unfortunately the language barrier meant that we couldn't chat about it further but it did mean that he could get on with his job of cutting hay with a scythe and building a haystack in the traditional style that is seen throughout the Balkans. Seeing the photos put our problems into perspective but nevertheless a problem we had. Overnight Cathy had been ill and wasn't up to walking, so we had all taken an extra rest ... read more
Looking over Lake Plav. The trail goes up the mountains to the left
It was still a steep climb after the jeep transfer.
Looking back down on Lake Plav.




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