Sex appeal! That's what the "Helen of the West" has.

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To say that Saint Lucia, the Helen of the West is "simply beautiful" is an enormous under statement. Saint Lucia's beauty encompasses not only its awesome terrain, lush green landscapes, the spectacular World Heritage Pitons, the wide variety of scenery from north to south and east to west but it goes deeper than that - its people and their laid back friendliness. Unlike many a tropical island that I can think of much further away, St. Lucia retains a flare and character that makes it unique and worth experiencing.

I will attempt through my blog to give a sense of what the island is and what its people are like. Enjoy it and you are most welcome to contact me or comment as you like.

I was privileged to have been born on this jewel of the Caribbean which changed hands between Great Britain and France in earlier centuries fourteen times, before being finally ceded to Britain. Because of its strategic importance in the extended European conflict for the New World, it conjures up images of swashbuckling pirates, adventure and the sugar cane, tobacco and cotton plantations that made many an aristocratic family both infamous and often wealthy. Jambe de Bois was one such pirate that operated from then Pigeon Island, now Pigeon Island National Landmark, having been joined to the mainland in the 70's. Pigeon Point is in the Rodney Bay area.

On my father's side I am directly descended from one of those early families who transplanted their way of life to the awesome beauty and challenge of the tropical new world when they settled on one of the islands establishing three plantations there in the 18th century. I vividly recall that the large family Bible, inscribed with the family tree inside, once resided in our family home but unfortunately met an ignoble demise when an accidental fire in my father's office consumed it. That was very sad because it was supposed to pass to the eldest of each generation. Had it survived that would have meant me. I am actually of mixed race - my father's ancestors came from Scotland.In this blog there is a picture, taken by my brother Norm, of the family ancestral home, Dunrobyn Castle, in Scotland. My paternal grandmother is of French ancestry whose family settled on the island of Dominica. Her maiden name, Dupigny, is another well known land-owning family name. My mother contributed the African and German blood. My maternal grandfather, hailing from Barbados, was the second most powerful person on the island as Treasurer under Colonial British rule, who on retirement started and managed St. Lucia's first indigenous bank, now the First National Bank of St. Lucia with my mother as the first employee.

I will hence forth refer to the wider area I speak about as the West Indies which is more apt than the commonly used term "Caribbean" as most people often forget that the islands got their name when Christopher Columbus mistakenly thought that he had reached his initial quest of India by sailing westwards.

While the island's racial mix is more or less similar to that of most of the smaller islands, there exists a wonderful blend between the peoples who originated in Africa and those of Europe and India. Many of the family names are most interesting too and find their roots in France particularly. One family name that is interwoven with the history of this island is that of Devaux. I highly recommend the book "A St. Lucian family" by Ian de Minvielle-Devaux which makes what I consider a fascinating read.

The ravages of the early conflict have remained a dimmed ancient history not often recalled in the haste to develop and grow its economy. And yet, within these annals of history lie an enormous wealth of the influences that make the island what it is today. Its music, cuisine, languages and style all reflect this mosaic in its modern cultural ambience.

The people are given to be hospitable, yet proud. For this small a country to have turned out two outstanding Nobel Laureates in Economics (Sir Arthur Lewis) and Poetry (Derek Walcott) respectively, speaks volumes and there are others who can justifiably claim future recognition from this noble body, but their opportunities will ultimately come. One of the first countries visited by Nelson Mandela after his release from his apartheid prison and assumption of power in South Africa was Saint Lucia. And for good reason. The then Prime Minister, Sir John Compton, was a fierce advocate for his release. The drive from the island's domestic airport is named in his honour.

The crushing and cruel blow of new world trade regulations in the early nineties decimated the thriving banana industry to make way for more market share for multi-national American competitors based in central America. This had a devastating effect on this industry commonly referred to as "green gold". In addition to larger estates, many small family farmers, cultivating even the hillsides, depended exclusively on bananas to feed and educate their families. Saint Lucia has never fully recovered from this loss and now largely depends mostly on tourism while the banana industry limps along, a mere shadow of its former status, the situation glaringly obvious to any discerning observer. This equates to unprecedented challenge for its Government which has to balance the social and economic needs of its people juxtaposed against a world economy largely run by huge private conglomerates and struggling first world countries as they seek to fend off the advances of competing Asian economies. It is tough. The recent announcement of a US$2.6 Billion investment in the south and near the international airport, augurs well for a potentially robust economic upsurge. Time will determine its impact, especially on the social fabric of the country but the enormous potential should not be denied especially given the proximity to the island's international airport. Taking it a step further, visionaries could well imagine, as I do, the creation of a cruise port in the south, facilitating home porting, giving the industry the ability to reach many south American ports on a seven-day cruise.

I have heard many people say "Oh yes, I've been to Saint Lucia and I enjoyed it." But what most of them should have more accurately said was "Oh yes, I went to St. Lucia for a few hours while on a cruise." or "Oh yes, I stayed in a resort there and I loved it." While that may well be true, the vast majority perhaps never ventured too far from the resort's control and its restaurants and water sports but they never tasted the real Saint Lucia. They never got to know any local person, visited their home, tasted their food or immersed themselves in any authentic local culture. And there are lots of it. They certainly do not know Saint Lucia!

My own advice is to get to know the people. Then and only then one can experience the true joy of this unique and special island. For those who do and I know some, they keep going back there for more, time and time again. During our visit in March 2013, we met a Canadian couple at the beach bar near our condo. At the time they were helping the owner, Marie, serve some visitors who had wondered down the beach from the hotels. I found that encounter intriguing because they said to me "We have come to St. Lucia for the last ten years consecutively and thought that this year we would try somewhere else but when it came down to it and we weighed other options, we said we have to come back here because of the people." Wow! What an endorsement!

As with any developing country faced with the economic challenges that these modern times present, any visitor must take this into account when planning unaccompanied excursions into unknown areas or situations and take commonsense precautions as they would in their own home countries.

Located in the middle of the Lesser Antilles and part of a sub-grouping called the Organization of East Caribbean States (OECS), Saint Lucia prospered after initially, statehood, then full independence from Britain in 1979, under the leadership of its long serving Prime Minister, Sir John Compton, now deceased. Its political system is identical to that of Canada, both being part of the British Commonwealth.

Its 238 square miles offer great variety of scenery. The extreme north and south tend to be drier and less mountainous, the west coast stunningly beautiful with mostly golden sand beaches with the occasional black-sanded ones revealing the volcanic origin of the island. This side faces the usually tranquil Caribbean sea. By contrast, the east offers up the rugged coast line and beautiful, mostly remote wild beaches fraught with the danger of the turbulent Atlantic Ocean. With some exceptions, swimming in this area is not recommended. The mountainous interior is lush and comprises the protected rain forest and source of the island's water supply and some of the most awesome tropical beauty anywhere. There are three types of snakes which make their home on the island, mostly in remote areas away from the threat of humans. One of them is the deadly Fer de Lance. Conservationists have found the world's rarest known snake on Maria Island, off the south coast. A five-month assessment of the Racer, small and non-venomous, has revealed that as few as 18 individuals remain. Undoubtedly the most famous inhabitant of the forest is Jacko, a parrot species found only on Saint Lucia. Once almost extinct, it is now flourishing once again due to strict regulations.

My father-in-law once owned such a beautiful bird, called Sheila, before the restrictions were instituted. I recall Sheila walking around the house or perching on a chair at the dining table as a well loved member of the family. What I found most amazing about this incredible creature was that it would regularly fly away but always return home. Other parrots that I have seen were usually caged but never free like Sheila was. Truly amazing!

Saint Lucia's main crop is bananas but I have already commented earlier about the demise of this industry. It also has a small coffee production and its cocoa is of the highest quality. Ground provisions such as sweet potatoes, yams, dasheen, tania, cush cush, manioc and many others form part of the local cuisine. Fruit such as oranges and grapefruit abound but there is a host of other exotic tropical fruit such as the sugar apple, sapodila and many others that never reach the table of hotel guests. Often available at the local markets, usually on a Saturday morning, it would be an adventure to try some of these delights. A visit to the main market in the capital, Castries, should be a must.

If there is one thing that is most delectable is the fresh fish of all kinds. Nobody in Saint Lucia or anywhere else in the West Indies should ever starve. The wide variety of fish is wonderful. While most inhabitants tend to overcook the fish there are many local restaurants which know how to prepare it properly. I love Dolphin, referred to as Mahi Mahi (not the lovable creature we all admire), Cavale, Tuna, etc. One of my favourites is the seasonal Jack which is usually well seasoned, fried and finished off with a special local sauce that is a wonder for the taste buds. And of course, lobster when in season. Sea urchins are a delicacy but over fishing has resulted in strict controls and less availability as is the case for Lambe or conch. Stuffed box fish and lobster are both often available at the Friday evening Anse-la-Ray fish fest, the latter when in season.

Saint Lucians are very musical as are most other West Indians. From Jamaica to Trinidad, music is an integral part of life in this region. Saint Lucia's music is strongly influenced by its northern neighbours of Martinique and Dominica producing a unique beat that closely resembles the Zouk of these islands, so popular in Europe. I can assure you that there are many other Bob Marleys and Rihannas waiting to be discovered. There is a rich musical culture that finds its origin in deep Africa with its drums and rhythm and the refinement and techniques of Europe. It is evident and undeniable that many a successful and popular North American hit is directly affected by the music of the West Indies.

While the modern world is causing certain long standing habits to erode away, Saint Lucians generally retain a particular grace about them that places a premium on good manners and kindness to one another that is evident in their dealings with each other and visitors to its shores. The woman in its society is both integral to a family's success and the object of frivilous and constant male attention. Whistles and sexual inuendo are the norm as are the lyrics in many of the popular Calypsoes that fill the airwaves, especially at Carnival time. Nobody gets upset as it is part of the culture just as the "picong" that is hurled at politicians and other important figures through this medium of song. Often it is the common way to express dissatisfaction with political directions and to reveal problems in the society. And, always to the beat of infectious music.

Aside from the early colonization from England, Scotland, Ireland, France and the slaves from Africa and indentured labour from India, many visit Saint Lucia from different parts of the world, fall in love and either stay or return later to make their home. This creates a unique blend of local style and entrepreneurial innovation from abroad making for an interesting society. Visitors will hear the local people speak Creole, a legacy of its strong French influence and also notice that the majority of place names are French, remembering that the island changed hands fourteen times between England and France. The original Carib people were decimated but a few of mixed blood may be found on the south-west coast between Anse-la-Ray and Choiseul. Anse-la-Ray hosts a popular weekly fish festival on Friday evenings while the Friday street party in the town of Gros Islet is quite famous.

Being in the hurricane belt it is occasionally the victim of storms that dump unprecedented levels of water that devastate the infrastructure and lives of the people and as it did in December 2013, scarring parts of the landscape. The island always recovers magnificently, though at tremendous cost. It is interesting that some of the most enjoyable weather and calmer seas occur during the Hurricane Season when visibility often stretches to the most distant horizon. As a boy watching from the top of Morne Fortune, I recall the scores of fishing boats emerging from the main harbour at Castries and fanning out in all directions, their white sails billowing under the steady breeze. In a way it is sad that with progress, the outboard engine has replaced the sail but those memories are seared in my mind forever.

As a young man growing up on the island, my friends and I enjoyed great freedom to explore the rain forest, the beaches, caves and other mysteries and it is very nostalgic to now look back at those simpler days. Today that way of life has given itself over to an urgency to prepare for careers and to build a successful adult life. Today the children have to start that quest as early as possible because the competition for school space is very stiff and the challenges more rigorous.

For visitors today, most arrive either by cruise ship for the day or by international flight landing at Saint Lucia's International Airport, Hewanorra, located on its southern tip, Vieux Fort. It usually takes about an hour and a half to reach most of the hotels and resorts in the north and less driving time to others elsewhere. The international airport was once a US Airforce base strategically located there as part of protection for the Panama Canal during World War 11.

In fact, at the other extreme northern end of the island, on which many resorts are now located, a US Naval Air Station once also stood guard from the then enemy. German U boats regularly traversed the Caribbean Sea during the conflict in the Atlantic.

There is a great variety of accommodation on the island and prices reflect the wide range of choices. From simple local bed and breakfasts, locally owned and operated small hotels, to chains such as the all inclusive Sandals and many outstanding boutique hotels on the west coast such as Ladera, perched high in the mountains and facing the majestic twin peaks, the Pitons. Jade Mountain and Anse Chastanet are two other outstanding world class properties, nestled on the coast in the spectacular Soufriere region. If you love snorkeling or scuba diving, this is the place to be.

In the Soufriere area which incorporates the drive-in volcano and the Pitons, one of the most beautiful and award-winning tropical gardens is located and is certainly worth a visit. Known as the bread basket of the island Soufriere supplies a wide variety of fruit, vegetables and ground provisions, coffee, cocoa and nutmeg all thriving in its rich volcanic soil. Soufriere is also the site for magnificent scuba diving, especially for the more experienced diver. I have but ventured out only as a snorkeler but appreciate the magnificence of its underwater beauty and appeal. Even after scuba lessons I was not absolutely convinced that I ought to pursue that form of pleasure below the surface. That area is undoubtedly one of the most stunning anywhere in the tropics. Usually lush green, its mountains rise majestically skyward. Morne Gimie, its highest, straddles the centre of the island while the World Heritage Pitons rise dramatically from the sea. I would not recommend climbing the Petit Piton but local guides are available to guide adventurers to the top of its bigger sister, Gros Piton revealing stunning views in all directions.

For visitors this area tends to attract the well traveled individual who is seeking peace and tranquility amidst immense beauty or the challenge of hiking the rain forest or diving the sheer undersea wall.

I should end with a little anecdote. On Saint Lucia's west coast lies one of the most picturesque and photographed bays in the West Indies - Marigot. It is a double bay which has a narrow opening to the inner portion leading to still deeper green water further in. During World War 11, a damaged German U boat entered, remained submerged during the day and surfaced at night to conduct repairs. Bear in mind that in those days there was no development in Marigot Bay and it was just one more remote bay and mangrove vegetation. Many years later, a close friend of mine was sitting at the bar of a popular jaunt on Marigot's little sand spit when a rather brash rich American sitting nearby suddenly announced his desire to depart for another island although it was then almost midnight. His luxurious yacht was berthed at the small dock nearby and my friend queried that request as he felt it was a dangerous proposition at that hour. Nonchalantly though, his German captain, spoke up. "Not a problem, I know this bay like the palm of my hand", he said. It turned out that he was the very U boat captain I spoke about earlier. It is not to be mistaken for the U-boat which entered Castries Harbour and torpedoed Lady Nelson and Umtata, killing several people because that sub was eventually sank by an American aircraft, a PBM-Mariner of VP-74 on 27 September 1943.

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I could go on and on about this paradise in the West Indies but that will be enough for now.

Thank you for your time.

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore. Dream. Discover."

- Mark Twain

"Keep on enjoying travel and the wonders that the world has to offer. The more I travel, the longer my bucket list gets" - Roger

Blessings to all.

PS - to contact me directly use email: [e-mail]

or for rental of my 2 bedroom condo use email: [e-mail]

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Photos

Soufriere town
Nestled near the Pitons and just a couple miles from the volcano, Soufriere was the first French capital of Saint Lucia. This area is the bread basket of the island due to its rainfall and fertile soil.

Incredibly tranquil Reduit
It simply does not get any better than this.

Stunning Reduit Beach
A typical scene when we visited one June.

Reduit
One of Saint Lucia's top beaches, Reduit, rivals any.

Vigie Beach - another stunner!
Located near George Charles Airport which serves domestic flights to and from the other islands.

The spectacular Pitons
I took this picture as I approached Soufriere through the mountainous road leading from the capital Castries in the north.

Jacko
This beautiful parrot is one of a kind and unique to Saint Lucia and its rain forest. This original artwork was commissioned specifically for me and painted by one of the island's leading artists and now hangs in my home in Calgary.

World Heritage Pitons.
These volcanic peaks rise straight up from the ocean. Tour guides are available to hike Gros Piton. Hiking the nearer one, Petit Piton, would also require an expert guide and is not recommended for the casual amateur.

Gros Piton to the left.
The higher peak on the left offers incredible views from its summit. It is nearly a four hour hike and worth attempting. Jeanette has climbed it but I am more inclined to other less arduous activity.

Lush interior
Jeanette overlooking the lush vegetation lush vegetation and rain forest which is home to Jacko the parrot.

A close up of Mount Parasol
One of the higher mountains, it is still lower than Mount Jimie in the centre of the island. The centre of the island is blessed with virgin forest protected by law and home to an indigneous species of parrot, unique to the island.

Marigot Bay
One of the most photographed bays in the West Indies. We are viewing east to west. The sand spit near the bottle neck entrance to the inner bay can be seen. There is a unique story attached to it which I have shared in the narative.

Cocoa pods
Unusual but that's how it grows. The quality of cocoa here is excellent and Saint Lucia exports an excellent but small amount of chocolate.

Marigot Bay
Picturesque Marigot Bay on the west coast taken from a friend's villa.

Donkey Beach, north east Cap Estate
It is not adviseable to swim in this area. Most of the east coast is rugged and most of their beaches are in remote areas with difficult access. By far, most of those beaches, while spectacular, have dangerous undertow and should just be admired without venturing in.

Sandals
Looking down on the Sandals Grand, Rodney Bay from our friend's villa. There are two other Sandals properties on the island.

Enjoying a friend's pool
In that country one never has to heat the pool.

Comments

[Sharon]

absolutely beautiful
Well Roger I have to say that reading your blog is absolutely lovely. Brings back so many memories to me, and to see the photos really brings it home to us that we were indeed privileged to have been born in such a stunning environment. Keep them coming! Great writing

[Heather Gun-Munro]

Fantastic and exciting commentary
This blog makes me (Roger's sister) long to return to see my beautiful island again after being absent for over 13 years! In fact I shall do so hopefully in the next year. The account and detail is a very imaginative and exciting read and should be passed on to the St Lucia Tourist Board for publicity. Great going Roger

[Beverly Hill]

Happy memories!
Thanks Roger, you have taken my memory back to 1973-1977 when we lived in Castries and got to know you and Jeanette. As you say such a beautiful place, it was a wonderful experience for us and our two older children and when we took our youngest back there some years ago he couldn't believe we had left voluntarily! Keep up the blogging.

[Bobby Peterson]

What Can I Say? You're Good.
Roger, You Should Be Writing For St. Lucia Tourist Board Or A Magazine. You Brought Me Home Again. The Pictures Are So Beautiful,I Remember Every Sight. I Got A Little Emotional Seeing & Remembering. Thanks, Keep It Up.

[D MJ Binkley]

Jewel of the Caribbean
I love this blog. I feel the same way about the U.S. when someone comes to visit and only goes to NYC, LA and Las Vegas. You can't understand the U.S. unless you have spent times in small towns. When we get to St. Lucia we promise to get to know the people. We spent a good bit of time in the Caribbean, love the music, diving and the foods.

[UDEL]

MOSEL TOV ROGER..........:)

[adventurer seeking adventures]

Absolutely gorgeous!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So excited to visit this area on Tuesday the pictures depict this area as absolutely beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Steve Gerrard]

Fantastic
Such a great blog with a fantastic insight into Saint Lucia. Thank you for sharing Roger.

[Whirl Traveller]

Thank you.
I appreciate your comments. I have not been blogging in recent years and have shifted over to vlogging now. However, I do miss the writing but it is difficult to find the time for both.