Port Dauphin - off the beaten track

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Another sunny day dawned in Paradise. After a shower, another breakfast began with fresh pineapple and watermelon.

At 09h30, my driver arrived. We headed straight out onto the main road and, almost immediately, turned left, up a narrow road towards Monchy. Pretty little houses lined the road and in Monchy itself, folk were busy setting up tents in preparation for Tuesday’s lime.

We passed along narrow roads, winding our way up around hairpin bends until we arrived in La Borne. This little community consists mainly of subsistence farmers, making a living out of the amazing valley head on which we found ourselves.

My guide for the day appeared. For the first time on this trip, I was not to be led by a Rasta. Sheena introduced herself and immediately we set off down the track (VIEW ROUTE). Little houses were dotted around the valley head, sitting level on stilts, their brightly coloured walls proudly proclaiming their presence in the landscape.

We’d hardly walked any distance when Sheena spotted a cashew tree with a ripe pod. This odd little nut grows below the fruit which, for my money, tastes much nicer than the nut. Apparently, even though these nuts are home grown, they are very expensive.

More trees filled the gardens. Breadfruit, a type of gooseberry (very sour), Sour Sop, and the ubiquitous mango were in abundance.

We rounded a corner in the track and suddenly, there were no more houses. Green vegetation stretched to the coast. Every now and again, areas of the hillside had been cleared and watermelon were being grown. To the front, the results of the River Dauphin’s erosion were visible as the valley stretched like a green cloth towards the sea.

Despite the temperature (33°C), a cool breeze sauntered up the track from the beach.

Before long, evidence of more recent erosion became apparent as the bridge beneath our feet was heavily damaged by the river and recent rains. We crossed and found ourselves on a flood plain. Where goats grazed, farmers followed and planted crops in the cleared ground.

Mangrove to our right provided the hunting ground for the land crabs, their little eyes poking out from their burrows until we got too close. Finally, passing the community shelter, we reached the beach. The black sand was littered with nature’s rubbish – branches, coconuts – in addition to man’s rubbish – the odd shoe and bottle.

Unfortunately, as the tide was coming in, it was not possible to cross the river at this point. We returned and, passing through the mangrove, crossed a little farther upstream. On the far bank, a ruined church was losing its battle with the Strangler Figs but a rock on which was carved a Carib petroglyph stood clear of such encroachment.

Returning to the little farmstead, we took lunch, sitting on the fallen trees, most of which were in the shade. Afterwards, we had fresh coconut, ample water being available from within the green shell.

Thirst quenched, we headed back across the broken bridge and turned into the forest. Following the river upstream, we had to cross it several times. Fortunately, it wasn’t deep and it was not always necessary to step from stone to stone.

Eventually we climbed up from the river and over a pasture. Little chicks ran around their mother, who seemed to be more interested in pecking the ground.

After a stop for water, we began a long climb back up the slope, pausing to admire a large pile of bananas.

Back at the top, which was our start point, it seemed sensible to help the local community by buying something from the bar whilst we waited for the transport.

A bottle of beer later, I bade farewell to Sheena and was reunited with my driver.

On our return, we took a slight detour and stopped by the Beauséjour Cricket Ground, where England play the West Indies. Also in this area, middle class homes have been built. These are occupied by teachers, civil servants and nurses.

Back at the hotel, I did a little washing and set it to dry on the balcony. After a shower, I prepared for a meal out, my driver collecting me at 19h00 prompt!

I was greeted by Laurel when we arrived at the restaurant. Fruit punch was served first, followed by dachin soup. This delicious starter gave way to fish in coconut milk, chicken in ginger, fried plantain, breadfruit dumpling and fried yam. The meal finished with coconut cake and ice cream.

Needless to say, once back in Rodney Bay, I went down to the Jazz Lounge for a nightcap.Though a hundred could easily be accommodated in the bar, tonight's crowd was very minimal as there was a stage event a little farther down the road. Mind you, once that was over, the bar would be filled.

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