Advertisement
Published: January 26th 2009
Well, as per usual I have got a little behind on this blog but I have been whirlwinding it through Central America like a man Possessed - and all because I want to see Colombia before I go to Vrazil for Carneval!!!
I believe my last update was from Guatemala and Semuc Champey, so much has happened since then! I ended leaving the Lovely Antigua the week before Christmas and ventured North to Tikal. Tikal is an ancient Mayan site which I was soon to find out is immense. It was a killer 12 hour bus ride from Antigua but well worth it. I have to say that on the first shuttle bus to Guatemal City, there was this poor Ozzie bloke who had obviously caught some bug and was clearly worse for wear, he must be commended for being the politest vomiter I have ever come across. Not only did he hurl silently but managed to get all in a little bag (which for once was the only time I felt was okay to throw litter from a moving vehicle!). I ended keeping an Eye on said Ozzie (I do have a soft spot for them) and we went to
Tikal tree tops
look its a temple....Tikal together. We had hoped to get there for Sunrise but alas the bus didn´t get there in time but we were both early enough to get some great snaps and discover these crazy massive temples and city in thew middle of the jungle. I have a great respect for all classical civilizations but, the size of Tikal and the indeed the Structures have to be seen to be believed. I now know where Mel GIbson got his inspiration for "Apocalypto". After veiwing Tikal, I spent the night on the Peten(small island) of Flores, and would recommend it - quaint and idyllic.
From Flores I took a bus to San Pedro Sula in Honduras and caught a very lush executive bus to La Ceiba (the port for ferries to the Bay Islands). I had originally decided to go to the bay Islands for Christmas because I liked the idea of spending Christmas in the Carribean. I was hoping for some beaches, so I was a bit unprepared for the Maelstrom of Diving School Sales people awaiting me when I got off the ferry on the Island of Utila. I ended up talking to an Enthusiastic English Dive Master called Rob,
Diving off Utila
feeling the fear beofre a dive who promptly signed me for a PADI open Water course at a cost of around $250. To tell the truth, I had never seen myself diving as I have an irrational fear of sharks from watching Jaws at too early an age, so I was quite surprsied when I just felt the fear and did it anyway. The training was quite something, they definetely make sure that you know what you are doing before you even go down to briny depths. There was a plethora of videos to watch and tests to do, which not only put me at ease but allowed the Dive masters et al know that you were not a complete lemon and about to die on them. I found diving great, you are in a different Universe and I could see why some people would get addicted to it. And it seems so do the diving schools, they were constantly trying to get us to do the advanced course or Night dives, there are businesses after all, but it did get a little bit too much and I wasn´t that passionate about it.
Along with the diving came my first experience of Dorm rooms, I had
Granada
The pretty town of Granada in Nicaragua always opted for my own space before but as this came with the price of the open water course I thought what the hell. Alas it wasn´t a good decision, on the morning we had to leave (26/12/08), I found that my wash bag and a bag containing a bounty of electronic had been nabbed during the night. Losing my Ipod and Speakers was a bit of Christmas downer, particularly when I found out the police would do nothing to help me get my insurance claim. So I had to bite the bullet be thankful that there were only material things taken that could be replaced. As I was a bit down on my luck I decided to head out to Water Cay, A tiny island of Utila with a population of around 500. I decided to go there as I had made friends with an English/Irish couple G and Graine who we happened to find out had mutual acquaintances through my one time Glastonbury Festival employers Lost Vaguness. Staying on Water Cay was lovely, away from the madness which is Utila. We ate fish, snorkelled and G impressed the locals playing them his old reggae stuff.
We returned to
Granada
churching it Utila for a hedonistic New years, which seemed like it was going to be sometihng quite special only for torrential rainfall to literally put a dampener on the party. As you know I have tarnished with the name hardcore before and decided a drop of rain wasn´t going to put this Irish man off so ´I was still around with the Crazies come New year Sunrise.
I decided New Year New Country and left the island of Utila and hit the Honduras mainlad and headed for the capital Tegicigulpa. Alas I had to spent the nioght therer and wouldn´t recommend it to anyone. I thought the place was a hole and gladly caught my King Quality bus to Managua as soon as I could. Customs into Nicaragua was amusing, and relatively painlesss compared to what I found out later. Anyway....Catching that bus I was befriended by a crazy Canadian called Katherine (48 New agey type) who I didn´t realise wasd crazy till it was to late. We ended sharing a room in Managua as it was late and we caught another bus down to the Beautiful dity of Granada the following morning where we deicded to dshare a room again
Ometepe
The volcanoes of Ometepe Island, Lago Nicaragua as Katherine had paid for the one the night before so I felt it only right to extend the courtesy. I just wasn´t expecting her to come out with her ipod and start playing some weird spiritual commentary. We met a friend of hers in Granada who turned out to be ex American Military who she had met in Belize, He was quite an interesting chap with a lot tall tales so I was quite glad for his company rather than being left alone to Katherine. Granada was quite akin to Antigua in Guatemala albeit an awful lot poorer, I had street kids come up to me at lunch and take milk and honey from my table, which was fine just sad.
I had originally planned to go to the Isle of Ometepe after Granada, but decided against because I knew Katherine was heading there! I had also wanted to hit the beach as Utila was actually very lacking in that Department only having 2 on the whole island, so much for my research! I did go and photograph the Isle of Ometepe as it is a wonder to behold, the island is literally two volcanoes joined in the middle
Monkey Man
Going upside down on a zip line in Tamarindo making an island in the centre of Lake Nicaragua (central Americas largest Lake) - but is easily seen from the Port near the town of Rivas. So instead of Ometepe I opted for the surf town of San Juan Del Sur (relatively close to the Nicaragua-Costa Rican Border). I stayed in a sweat box which cost me $6 a night, but really not worth the lack of sleep! The town itself was peaceful and had a half decent beach, so I managed to catch some sea and some rays which is definetely what the Doctor ordered. Nicaragua is obviously poor, and I felt I was being looked at as a dollar sign. I wasn´t sure whther there was still contempt held towards the US and the atrocities it caused there but I got the sneaking feeling there might have been. This feeling was usually backed up by a change in facial features on Nicaraguans when they realised you were not American. I had heard about La Frontera (border) between Nicaragua and Costa Rica but I din´t really know what to expect. All I can say is the closest thing I can imagine to being like is queueing up for Glastonbury
Shota 1
Costa Rica up and coming Reggae singer where the majority of people don´t have a ticket and there is a large liklehood you will be knocked back, and unlike Glastonbury Security these guys knock you back with the threat of automatic weapons. After about 3 hours or so, with some bribery for queue jumping on my part, I eventually got into Costa Rica. Costa Rica is one of those Countries where you neerd to show that you have an onward ticket, Which luckily I had procured two days before, booking a Tika bus from the Capital San Jose to Panama City.
I decided the beach was calling so first stop was Tamarindo beach, which after an excessivelly charged cab ride to Libreria followed by a sardine style standing bus ride to my destination, I pretty much crashed after a pizza. Costa Rica and Tamarindo in particular were very American, both in cost and style. Tamarindo is reknowned for easy surf so was loaded with Americans looking for the right waves, I got the feeling the place was a mafia haunt but what would I know (capiche?). I probably spent too long in Tamarindo as the place burnt a hole in my pocket, but the place defineltely had
its highlights. Not only did I face the fear of heights again by doing a zip line canpoy tour, I also went to a little studio with a couple of Tamarindo´s up and coming reggae/hip hop stars of the future - Shota one and Tony Peace.
After a few days in Tamarindo soaking up the rays I headed down coast to Montezuma (what can I say the name attracted me), and found a lovely beach and a small town. Again famed for its Surf but also quite concentrated with dope smokers, I found Montezuma to be quite appealing (if you go, you must eat at Cocolores restaurant and get a banana curry - its supmptious!).
Time was upon me to leave Costa Rica so I hit San Jose the capital for the day before my night ride to Panama City. San Jose did not really live up to the reputation I had got from fellow travellers but I did only spend the day there. It was definetely a step or two up from Tegicigalpa and Managua but I wouldn´t have wanted to spend any more time there than necessary.
The famous Tika bus, the international bus line for central America,
Panama Canal
interesting shot right?! didn´t live up to my expectations either. It was a cramped unenjoyable journey to Panama City with the border corssing once again being an Arduous affair. I think the total journey took about 16 hours and I was relieved to finally get to the last capital city I was going to see on my central Amercian adventure.
Panama City was another american city outside of the states, wven the currency they use is the dollar. The place had all the American multinational corporation hallmarks, from MacDonalds to Walmart. It was definetely the safest city I visited so far, and I must say I kind of felt at home surrounded by the popular vices on offer (loads of Casinos and legal prosititution). Not that I tried the vices, I supoose living the life I have lived I suppose I´m used to the seedier attractions cities in general have on offer. Visiting Panama city wouldn´t be proper without a visit to the famous canal, which is a bit more than a jumped up camden lock. I visted the Miraflores lock and saw a few ships pass through the worlds largest canal, and it indeed it is a testamant to mans ingenuity when
Safari Jeep
gettin to the Kuna people in San Blas, Panama it comes to construction.
I had originally planned to sail to Colombia, but having talked to a few people in hostels I heard a few things. Firstly not all saling trips south are happy ones, I heard tales of demented captains threatening passangers with a variety of weapons and also feeding them nothing but crackers. Aside from this it was the windy season and the seas were pretty rough at this time of year. I got round to experiencing the seas for myself as I visted the San blas archipelago where the Kuna tribe live on little islands off the Eastern Shore of Panama. Getting there from Panama City was an eventful journey, not only do you have to take a four wheel drive and traverse some rivers and rugged landscapes, I managed to get a fat lip from a sleeping Israeli. Falling asleep in the back of the 4x4 next to a sleeping guy, lead to a bizarre head banging between our two nodding heads. I am sure an Iranain once told never close your eyes when the israelis are around! After the 4x4 we took a boat to one of the Islands where I would be staying the
San Blas Paradise
possibly the closest I have been to paradise... night. Like I said the sea was pretty scary, and I am pretty glad I chose to fly to Cartegena in Colombia. The Islands dont have electricity or running water so It really did feel like stepping back in time. The Kuna primarily live off the sea, but it seems tourism is getting a foothold. I was taken on another boatride from the island to what I can only describe as Desert Island paradise, clear blues seas, great fish and an island you can cross on foot in minutes. That night I slept in a Palm hut with A parrifin lamp for light.
I returned to Panama city and took a flight to Cartagena in Colombia which was the start of a whole new adventure. Stay tuned......
Advertisement
Tot: 0.044s; Tpl: 0.013s; cc: 9; qc: 23; dbt: 0.0219s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
GlobetrekkerChic
Christine Rodriguez
Great story....
Seems like I'm following your footsteps. Thanks for the tips!!! Enjoy your next pitstop....!!!