Most Cosmopolitan City in Central America?

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Okay, everyone, I know I've gotten a little behind on writing blogs and now have to play catch-up. I have now been in Panama City for a few days and while I wrote more in my other travel journal want to make sure I get something to everything to get some idea of life so far in Panama. Also, I realize a few pictures are not uploading very well to the blog. I'm sorry about that...I am thinking it's because of either a slow connection I'm on or the travelblog site is having problems. I will see if I can upload some pictures in an alternate format soon.

I arrived in Panama on the night of the 15th. As a reminder, I was scheduled to fly from Quito to Panama City - via Miami. It was more than a little ironic when the pilot came over the radio while on the flight to Miami to highlight, "if you look out the window, you can see the Panama Canal!" Great...it looks so wonderful how about I go see it in person? Anyway, I got to Miami preparing for about a 4 hour layover in the Miami airport. When you come into the U.S., you obviously go through customs and for citizens, it's usually pretty quick. With a number of times I've now had connecting flights through Miami, I'm now taking with a grain of salt when the Homeland Security agent says, "Welcome back..." I kid as I'm sure there's some sincerity, but after saying it 2000 times a day, it probably gets a little hard to say with much gusto. Anyway, everyone regardless of having connecting flights or not has to claim all their luggage and re-check it before flying back out of the country. I guess that's not too much problem, but I was a little annoyed to have to go through all of security again. Didn't I already do this? If I had something to blow up the plane, wouldn't I have used it already? Oh, well...I was outside the security area anyway, so I got a haircut and mailed some stuff I didn't need back home. Then it was back to throw away your water, take the laptop out of the bag, take the shoes off, get the pat-down because I still had a sweatshirt on with sleeves pushed up so who knows what I'm hiding in the sleeves? Eventually, I made it through all that and now it was just wait for the remainder of the 4 hour layover...only it became 6 hours...bringing us to Panama City all the more into the night, which I wasn't so keen on doing. I was especially concerned about flying at night because I dawdled some and only half confirmed a place to stay for the night once I did make it to Panama City and, hopefully, to the hostel.

Ultimately, tired from flying all day long and still uncertain about accommodations I made it to Panama City. After arguing with the taxi driver over what I wanted to pay (the hostel said the ride should be $20. The airport is on the outskirts but the driver wanted $27.50) and long story short we agreed to two people sharing the cab at $16 each, especially after I threatened to walk away and find another cab. After originally being paired up with the young kid who apparently had to prove how cool he was and how much he wanted to party and get whatever "enhancement" he could, he bailed on my cab and I refused to pay the full amount the driver now wanted again. However, there was a young lady who needed a cab. We split and actually had the coincidence of going to the same hostel. That said, we got something of a deal and the driver still only had to make one stop for us, on top of getting more cash for the run then he would have gotten.

We arrived at the hostel, which was all dark right now and just looked like an apartment building. We went upstairs and rang a bell...no answer. We rang two more times and finally someone answered. It was actually Jan, another guest who directed us back downstairs. We finally found the hostel managers and got situated in the room. Jan, Katie, and I briefly talked but soon all headed to bed, in a hot and sticky Panama City. Even at 10:30PM, it was likely still 80F and about the same number for humidity.

The next morning, we had the joy of being woken by noise...construction noise in the building being erected across the street. It started at 7AM, though I managed to ignore it until about 8AM. I finally woke and after getting ready found Jan in the main room. We talked some and eventually Katie stopped up. Katie was moving to another hostel closer to the water, but we all agreed we might spend some time together seeing sights or at least getting a beer. Jan, however, and I are both single travelers. We also have some similar motives in traveling above and beyond just traveling for its sake - namely possible business opportunities and work. This all said, we have ended up seeing some sights together. Now, before you all get excited about any new romance, I have to tell you I'm not seeing it. I also don't think Jan would disagree (I sure hope not if she's reading this!) Don't get me wrong, Jan is great...but it is completely coincidence (at least that's what I think it is, though you have to wonder...) that we met here. I am certain we are of very different worlds. I am 36 years old and Jan is, well, more (though quite spry!). Jan is a committed vegetarian and I just had a snack of roasted turkey from the Rey Supermarket. Jan normally, for her business and where she is at in life, stays along the lines of Ritz-Carlton or Hilton and obviously on this trip I'm not (it was by honest error she ended up in a humble $20/night hostel...her new, young, inexperienced assistant followed Jan's directions perhaps too well when Jan told her to find, "a local cozy place, not a chain. Perhaps a lesson or two in Spanish would be nice to if connected with a school). Finally, while Jan lives in New Mexico right now she previously lived in San Francisco and she was not there to be part of the 7 conservatives who live in San Francisco County (okay, maybe there's a few more than 7). I, of course, if there would be part of the 7 (well, I suppose it would become 8, right?). This all said, we have been great company for each other to explore this big, cosmopolitan, yet contradictory and crazy city.

While perhaps there is a small shortage of tourist info from the city and country itself, there are a number of tourist-friendly things to see. One of the first we saw was Casco Viejo. This is a partially restored part of town where Panama City rebuilt itself in the 1500's after being basically destroyed by pirates. There are a number of buildings in generally classic colonial style, with grand churches and plazas to boot, all on traditional cobblestone streets and the edge of the ocean. Today, some of those buildings have been wonderfully restored to much their former glory. There are also walkways to walk on and see the ocean and boats waiting to enter the Canal. The downside, though, is that not all the buildings are restored; the neighborhood is still very much a work in progress. You can realistically see a beautifully restored building with solid walls, painted beautifully, wrought iron fences, new windows, carved wooden doors, and more right next door to a building that may be vacant and in complete disrepair. Also, to get from the main part of the city to this small neighborhood, you do pass through a neighborhood that I believe is called San Felipe. Almost on a line drawn in the street, the Casco Viejo neighborhood goes from the buildings either restored and with small restaurants/shops, or waiting to be restored, to this neighborhood that you are probably not entirely safe walking down. At the very least, you will likely feel completely uncomfortable walking as a tourist or gringo. Should you wander inadvertently into this neighborhood and tourism police see you, they will escort you back or put you into a cab. Don't get me wrong, in Casco Viejo you'll have little to no trouble. Just know you will be taking a cab to return to the main part of the city. I can tell you, though, go back to Casco Viejo in 5-10 years and it seems very likely you will be in a huge touristy area with all sorts of boutique shops and bars/restaurants. I'm not so sure what will happen on San Felipe, though...you have to go through it but could be a downside to Casco's development (besides which where do the people living there go?)

There is also the banking area, or Multicentro. This is the area where it seems the city cannot build huge high-rises fast enough for the apparent demand due to companies flocking to the country and city, due to the Canal and to business friendly laws in Panama. We took a driver tour guide one day who says these buildings are typically at least 50%!s(MISSING)old before they even start building them. Though it's just a huge amount of real estate and concrete and I wonder where is the demand, that demand will apparently continue. I will tell you, though, while I had some idea Panama City was pretty big and developed, I still don't think I expected this many high-rises.

Jan and I did get a driver to do a city tour. We passed on going back to Casco Viejo as we saw it but went to these sites: El Pueblito, a recreation of traditional Panamanian towns with either the Afro-Caribbean influence or the Spanish Colonial influence; the Miraflores Locks of the Canal; Clayton neighborhood (a drive though to see the old U.S. Military bases converted to private housing. A nice neighborhood, but not overly interesting); Panama Vieja, the original start of the city that was destroyed in the 1500's by pirates and is today ruins being slowly restored for its historic sake and reminds me a little bit of the San Antonio Mission Ruins; the Amador, a walkway/path that was originally three small islands operated by the U.S. Military until the bases were closed with the handing over of the Canal to Panama - today with restaurants, shops, boats for use, and even a Country Inn and Suites with a TGI Friday's (the Minnesota influence from Carlson Companies!); plus a general drive through the city. All of it was interesting, though I think I got the most out of the Canal and Locks. The current locks are interesting in themselves and this operation apparently brings in the country some $850 million dollars after all expenses. However, I was fascinated by the historical aspect and trying to fathom the near unimaginable effort that was expended to build the Canal. I'm not sure even I fully comprehend the level of effort needed, but if you try to think about the upwards of 20,000 people working there in oppressive heat, with somewhat minimal equipment, worries of malaria or yellow fever, and other considerations it really puts our workday in perspective.

Yesterday, we also took a day trip to a rainforest resort a little outside the city, Gamboa resort. The views from the resort were spectacular where you can look out onto the river between locks, plus see all the rainforest. The resort itself was okay, though reminded me somewhat of a Holiday Inn that the company is now trying to disparately to get away from: a little old and worn on the edges. However, the prices of the resort would make you think it was a whole lot more. Jan and I refused to pay the insane $50 for the tram ride over the mountains - a ride that was similar to the one I took in Quito for $4 and I could stay as long as I wanted versus a one hour trip here at Gamboa. My guess is the resort figured they had you there now so take advantage. Oh, well...it was a good afternoon.

On the first full night here in Panama City I spent some time just wandering the streets in the evening/night to get some sense of the nightlife. There are casinos to visit and I walked through one, though wasn't feeling inclined to spend money. There's also lots of stores or restaurants from America. Little trouble finding McDonald's, Wendy's, Subway, Quizno's, and others. What is not as common as I would have thought are taxis. Maybe it's just because the city is so big, but it seemed easier to get a cab in most places in Ecuador. However, what was different is many of the cabs - especially in certain areas - were happy to arrange a "message" for the lone gringo guy if I didn't need a cab...darn ethics and morals, I might have been able to negotiate a good deal...

So far, I have a plan to do a little more sightseeing in the city, including a stroll with friends on the Amador, or Causeway tonight. I think there are tourist things to see in the city and you will find nightlife. I think it will be great to see some nightlife and also see the city at night on the Causeway. However, as far as a city and after a few unique historical aspects there is a sense this is just another big city - though one where most is in Spanish and as the gringo it's still assumed I have money. I can say other than taxis, many items don't seem especially cheaper than back in the States. Even at stores that are clearly geared to locals, the prices seem comparable to back home. I'm looking forward to seeing more of the country, though while Panama City has those tourist things to do (and do recommend going to see them...you certainly won't find this elsewhere) and will probably have investment opportunity, I would have to say Panama City is not the place I would call "home" in the future. If I want to live in a big city, I'll find it in America.

Okay, I know that some of my words were a little bit of a downer, but fear not...I'm still having a great time seeing all these new things and living a new life. It's also really great to meet people from all over the world and with lots of different experiences. That is an especially good part of traveling like this...to meet and talk with people on a very informal and casual level. I have to put up with pretty basic accommodations but they also make it a lot easier to interact with other travelers - which you obviously don't do much of in a chain hotel. It's all good and I'll look forward to more of it - though I'll even more look forward to getting to the mountains in Panama where it's not 90F and about the same humidity at the hot point of the day!

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Photos

A round for all my buddies!
Rum and Coke, called the Cuba Libre, is available in a can in Panama City. I saw this in the big grocery store, Rey, and had to spend the 75 cents for the novelty of it. It certainly wasn't premium rum, but it wasn't terrible to drink either...

Street scene in Casco Viejo
This particular street has less of the cobblestone streets, but most of the streets in the restored part of the neighborhood looked pretty similar.

Not all glitz in Casco Viejo
You can see a pretty rundown building in the neighborhood, with a fully restored building next door. There was an additional restored building across the street. Casco Viejo still is a work in progress.

El Pueblito, Spanish
This is the recreation of traditional towns in Panama. This is the Spanish Colonial influence version. A little "touristy", but still informative and interesting, with the town plaza.

El Pueblito, Afro-Caribbean
Another part with the other example of traditional towns. A very different look and feel to the town from the Spanish Colonial version, but equally interesting.

Welcome!
Here's the sign to look for when you arrive. Yes, the picture is one only a dorky tourist would take, though I wasn't the only one. While taking this picture, a tour bus rolled by and in the windows were a dozen cameras. Jan mentioned that was REALLY the picture to take!

Miraflores Locks
Here is the welcome/visitors center, all spiffy and new. You can see the Miraflores locks with boats going through, visit the museum which is really nice and informative (and air conditioned), see a short movie about the Canal, and get all your souvenirs in the gift shop.

Ships shipping stuff
In the Canal, there was this boat while we were at the observation deck. A ship this size probably will spend about $100,000 to go through the Canal. The smallest boats go through for around $500, but the highest current payment is around $370,000.

On the lock itself
From an observation deck, you can see the lock in action.

The proof I was here...
With Canal boats behind me, I made it to the Canal!

Old and new
In Panama Vieja, the original start of the city, is this tower. You can go up it and look out for a few dollars. However, as important is look to the huge skyscraper off in the distance for some contrast of Old Panama and New Panama

Panama Vieja
This is obviously part of the large amount of ruins and was a church in the original city. However, it is still intact enough that you can rent this area for banquets, according to Justo our tour guide. What a great place in the evening for a reception, or even for a wedding!