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Published: September 26th 2008
Kuna Lady Peddling Molas
I felt guilty for haggling after I later heard that the old women are often blind after so many years of concentrating on such tiny stitches. The Kuna are an admirable little bunch in that they are one of the few indigenous peoples in the Americas that managed to resist European domination or, as often was the case, extermination.
Their historical tenacity is in sharp contrast to their current peaceful and welcoming nature. But this veneer belies the fact that as recently as 1925 they kicked the Panamanian police of their islands in protest of an attempt to suppress their traditional ways. This act contributed toward the Kuna having a remarkable amount of political autonomy, some claim more than any other indigenous group in all of Latin America.
Back in the day (1500’s ish), the Spanish almost did a good job of wiping out the Kuna completely. As was always the case, this was mainly due to imported diseases. Many Kuna were murdered in order to get at their gold nose rings and many more were taken as slaves. They became allies with the British in order to win independence from Spain and much later (in 1925) became allies with the USA in order to achieve the autonomy that they enjoy today.
The fact that they live on some of the most beautiful islands
Isla Wichubdupdummad (Honestly)
Where we were fed and made to feel very welcome. in the world, must be a reason why they have been particularly resistant to change. The Archipélago de San Blas are the archetypal desert islands. White sand, palm trees and little bamboo huts, all surrounded by crystal clear seas brimming with fish.
The economy of the islands is mostly export of coconuts and fish. The strip of mainland Panama that the Kuna control provides them with freshwater, fruits and vegetables. They are not rich people in the modern western view of the world, but they have everything they need and are content with their lot.
Ownership and governance of each tiny island rotates every three months between families and a non-Kuna is prohibited from owning land. Thus there are very few hotels here; accommodation for tourists is typically a hammock or a yacht.
The Kuna men have given up the traditional dress in favour of old shorts and a dirty t-shirt. The women, however, look fantastic. They wear very colourful sarongs topped with flowery seventies blouses. On their wrists and ankles they wrap long strings of brightly coloured beads and they usually have thick gold rings through their noses. Despite these adornments they could definitely do more
with their hair.
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