Surfs up Dude

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Wahoo, I awoke super excited to go surfing today! Matt and I rented our gear (boards and rashguards) and chucked them in the truck. After a quick bite at the market, we were off to Playa Mederas (playa is beach in Spanish). A little nervous because of all the other surfers, we headed to a spot where we could get good waves and not be too near others. Strapping our boards to our ankles we jumped in and started out towards the breaks. When I say we jumped right in there, I mean within five minutes of getting to the beach we were surfing. The first waves came and we jumped up like beginners. The nose end of my board went under sending me flying forward then following that the wave smashed me under. Alright so I have to keep my weight at the back of the board haha. The next few I caught nicely and stood up after most of the momentum was gone (in the white wash). Within half an hour though Matt and I were riding the waves pretty good. Every now and then a big one would come and own us but for the most part we caught quite a few and stood up often. I would say one in ten we rode for over three seconds and the odd couple right into ankle deep water. I was going to take lessons but after today, no way. It was way more fun doing it our own way and watching others to pick up tips. A few waves Matt and I were side by side riding down them and it was awesome seeing who would bail first. I think after a week of surfing we will have it down and the more practice the better. After about three hours we headed to shore for a quick water break. When we put our boards down a strong wind picked up and threw Matt's board into the rocks. A big new dent was there but we chose to ignore it as we headed back out into the water. We surfed until 5pm getting a ton of sun before cashing in for the day. I think we used half a bottle of sunscreen but still got a little burnt. What an awesome day! We got back to the hostel and just read for the rest of the night, tired and sore. James, Justin, and Jeff are still surfing in Costa Rica about 8 hours bus ride from us so we will head towards them in a few days.

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