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Published: July 24th 2009
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It became obvious within 24 hours that being on the beach and in the sea is the only place to be at this time of year so we headed for the well-reputed Corn Islands on the Caribbean coast. Listening to those around us, we flew to Big Corn Island and immediately hopped on a boat to Little Corn Island - and what a find Little Corn island is! It is a stunning, peace haven - palm tree lined white sandy beach, clear blue sea, perfect blue sunny skies and a scattering of beach huts spread mainly along the soutth side of the island.
There are no street lights, roads or cars so the locals get about by bike, boat and walking across the island with wheelbarrows to carry their stocks. A water tank is filled with fresh (non-drinking) water brought in by boat, electricity is only on at certain times of the day and a handful of restaurants and residences have there own generators to remain operational during one of the many evening power cuts.
We found ourselves an individual beach hut with the doors and windows opening out on our private beach ... we stayed for 10 days,
and we can't wait to go back!
10 days in one location, in one accommodation was an utter delight. We could unpack, know where the toilet was in the middle of the night and have a restaurant that knew our favourite orders, and a doctor that had time to order in something that would settle our stomachs once and for all! Our days consisted of a morning dip in the sea, breakfast on our balcony, a bit of a sunbathe or perhaps a snorkel, a bit more of a sunbathe. Lunch then beckoned so we would walk along the beach and find a little spot to dine, if they felt like opening that day, and slowly ease our way into an afternoon of laying in the hammock reading our books whilst we entertained thoughts of setting up our own little place and never leaving. Ahhh, I'm almost back there now just writing this.
A few days in we did actually need a little more to do so we walked around the entire island, which is an adventure in itself. Despite it being so small, it takes around 3 hours to walk around the entire island. There are unmade
paths, beach routes, and some more trodden paths that weave all over the island. I'm sure it is possible to find a new route each day, whether it is the plan or not.
Most people that come to the island come to do a PADI course or dive or snorkel. We went out on a snorkelling trip and Ben also dived Blowing Rock, the biggest dive site located near Big Corn Island. Between the diving and the snorkelling we got to see nurse sharks, baraccuda, enormous lobster, sting rays, manta rays & reef shark.
Ben also went out fishing one afternoon and returned as the sun was setting with his rather extensive catch of 2 Kingfish, a Jack and a Trigger fish. We opted to eat the big Kingfish at the house of the fisherman.
One particular evening without power on our side of the island, we wandered to a restaurant across one of the pathways to the main, more commercial side of the island, if it could indeed even be described as commercial! There are hundreds of lobster crates being assembled, two or three hotels, a couple of little shops and the main port where the
passenger boat departs twice a day and a ship with new stocks and water supplies arrives once a week.
The islands main income is from fishing although they are slowly, slowly getting to realise that tourism could be a good way to make a living. Making a living definitely appears to be secondary in most islanders motives. The first 'hotel' on the island was built 10 years ago and not a great deal has developed since this - which is a major part of Little Corn's charm.
The unlit well trodden path directly across the island is a scary experience and not one I'd recommend without a torch and a strapping man in tow. I set off with both and was soon jumping in Ben's arms, and squealing like a school girl, out of fear from all the rustling noises in the bushes. I was sure somebody was going to jump out of the bushes and mug us of our dinner money! Thankfully the torch rescued me from my overactive mind and we realised that this loud rustling was in fact groups of enormous blue crabs, with pincers almost as big as them, that seemingly had no fear
of me or Ben! Why oh why did I decide to put on my strappy shoes for this walk!!
Most nights after opening a coconut with a machete, we ate or ended up at Casa Iguana's, a 'hotel' which consists of maybe 20 individual beach huts each with a view of the sea, a dinner and cocktails terrace overlooking the entire southern shore of Little Corn and a gourmet chef serving a three course meal each night. It's the main evening gathering point with a great bunch of staff and a relaxed atmosphere with one dinner sitting that gets everybody chatting and partying from the word go. We also enjoyed a night at the fun and sweaty Reggae Club to see the locals shaking their booty, and boy, do they go for it!
We ummed and ahhed for a couple of days on whether we should actually leave Little Corn Island having found this little slice of heaven. Having been told it is a must to see Granada and Ometepe Island, we hoiked ourselves away.
GRANADA is described as a rich and beautiful colonial city. After our great experience of Antigua in Guatamala and recommendations from fellow
travellers, our expecations were running high. Granada is set on Lake Nicaragua, it has a pretty square, some beautiful cathedrals and a main street full of restaurants, cafes, bars and fantastic evening street performers.
It has all the makings of a great place and lovely as it is, but ... Antigua just out-does Granada! That said, we enjoyed our few days here and escaped the very americanised main street to find a couple of great restaurants and live music bars. We also took a boat trip on the lake to see monkey island, and to dine on a island over-looking local millionaire's mansions islets. The timing of our visit to Nicaragua coincided with the hottest month of the year so being out on the lake and feeling the wind in our hair was an absolute blessing! I just cannot imagine it being any hotter and stickier ... or being bitten more than 100 times in a a couple day ever again!
OMETEPE ISLAND, known as two hills, is famous for the two volcanos that it houses. The countryside is beautiful which makes a nice experience to drive, cycle or walk around the island. Ometepe is well on it's
way to being developed, yet certain areas are still incredibly remote and rustic with locals living very simply, travelling by horse and washing their clothes in streams.
We decided against climbing the volcanos, having recently climbed two in Guatemala, but we took the opportunity to visit a couple of different villages and walk across the island to the Ojo de Aqua, a natural watering hole, set in the middle of forest. It's a lush, relaxing place to spend a couple hours, and a very welcome dip in the water after our walk.
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