Honduras - Los Naranjos, Santa Rosa de Copan, Gracias and Copan Ruinas

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Suzanne here...

When we've told people our plans on our travels we've often been told not to go to Honduras. "It's too dangerous you'll be robbed / kidnapped / shot / disemboweled with a potato peeler " (well, maybe not that last one). Even the guidebooks say it is one of the most dangerous countries in Central America. The most positive people we met said it was ok if you were careful but there was a lot of anger, hostility and unfriendliness. We decided to go anyway, to be careful and to make a swift exit if it was as bad as people said, and not to tell my mum how dangerous it was supposed to be (Sorry mum).

I'm glad we ignored all the doom and gloom. It's actually a really nice country. Some spectacular scenery and relaxing little towns, and perfectly friendly welcoming people.

We took the bus from Leon in Nicaragua first to the capital, Tegucigalpa. Quite a dangerous place if you are stupid, but with a bit of common sense you'd be ok. However we were a bit sick of cities and there was nothing much we wanted to see so it seemed pointless staying. We found out that the Tica bus we were on actually continued north, the way we'd planned to go, so we quickly bought tickets for the second leg and after a quick scout around the area (looking for an ATM with no luck) got back on the bus.

Our destination was Los Naranjos, near Lago Yojoa. Partly because the scenery looked amazing, and partly because there was a microbrewery there. The Lonely Planet made it sound like a real rustic idyll, and after our bought of illness we were looking forward to it. We hopped off the Tica bus at La Guama and got straight on a bus to Pena Blanca. Luckily they accepted dollars as we still didn't have any lempera. In Pena Blanca there was an ATM... but none of our four cards worked. Disaster! We decided to worry about it the next day. We walked the 4km to our destination, D&D Brewery. Stupid, it was a long walk, we should have just got another bus.

When we arrived, we were bitterly disappointed. The rooms were tiny concrete bunkers, far from the relaxing room I'd wished for. However, it was getting dark and we'd been traveling for 12 hours so we took the room. Bloody Lonely Planet, where this place was mentioned three times, I'm not exactly suggesting money exchanged hands but I'm pretty sure it was at the very least a favour to a friend that got them mentioned so much. The place really doesn't warrant the hype. I didn't even like the beer that much. We then went down to the bar area for some food. It was a full-on backpacker vibe. Not really our scene, and especially not when we were tired and ill.

At dinner the local guide (originally from England) came to talk to us. We were not really interested in any tours but tried to be polite. Then he sat down and ordered some food himself. Some people might not mind this, and will think I'm being an anti-social cow, and I suppose I am, but to me you don't just join a couple you have never met for dinner without even asking if they mind. I did mind. I was knackered, still feeling ill, and just did not want to make small talk. I only managed a bit of my food anyway, then made my excuses leaving poor David to deal with it. Not very fair, but I'd had enough. David managed to eat a bit more than me, then joined me in our prison cell. We read outside for a bit, until I ripped my trousers on a nail on the chair. That was it, I was ready for bed. Even if there was a golf ball sized lump on my side of the matteress.

The next day I wanted to move on. However David really wanted to see the Pulhapanzak Waterfall. Anyone who knows David will tell you how laid back he is, and he'll just go with the flow. It's not often he really wants to do something specific, so I wasn't going to be mean about it. In any case, it was a long way to have come without seeing anything. We caught a bus to Rio Lindo where we finally managed to get some money and had coffee and nachos. Then we walked back the 3km or so to the waterfall. Now we were both still recovering. It was a steep hill, and it was noon. Not a great combination. I really struggled, at one point I thought I wasn't going to make it. Idiots, why we didn't just get a taxi I don't know.

Anyway, we finally made it and it was all worthwhile. The waterfall was beautiful and we enjoyed a refreshing swim and just relaxing in the grounds. Spotted a few lizards and interesting birds too. A good day in the end.Even if it did mean another night in our concrete bunker and lumpy bed!

Onwards to the Western Highlands and Santa Rosa de Copan, packed on a chicken bus of course. Yet again we found ourselves walking up a steep hill in the midday sun, this time with our backpacks. We really need to learn when to take a taxi. Anyway, the town was beautiful. We found a decent hotel and then made our way to a lovely little cafe, Ten Napel, a friendly place with delicious coffee and homemade bagels. We didn't do much, there wasn't much to do, but we enjoyed a couple of days just pottering around, without flocks of tourists around us.

We reluctantly left Santa Rosa for Gracias. The bus ride was slightly less cramped than usual, and the scenery was breathtaking. We arrived and promptly walked the wrong way, the map in the Lonely Planet shows the bus station in the wrong place (to be fair I think it's moved). Eventually we righted ourselves. Our chosen hotel was full so we stopped at the nearby San Sebastian. Nothing special but clean enough and reasonably priced. Then we had a look around the town. Already I was missing Santa Rosa, Gracias was small and dusty and just wasn't doing it for me at all. Luckily we managed to turn it around by taking a couple of beers and our books up to the tranquil Castillo up above the town. Very peaceful and good views of the town and surrounding area. After dinner we made sure we got back to the hotel before 10pm, nobody had said anything but we've found that hotel doors are sometimes locked by then. Then we had to endure the family shouting to each other until midnight, as if they didn't actually realise they were running a hotel.

In the morning the noisy family woke us up at about 5.30. We attempted a lie-in then we headed for the bus station. We wanted to go to the hot springs at the Termas del Rio. Lonely Planet said it was hard to get to by public transport, but we thought it was worth a go. Another example of lazy research. We were directed to the Santa Rosa bound bus and twenty minutes later were dropped at the entrance. the springs were lovely and well worth a visit. At first it was very peaceful, and we enjoyed bobbing around in the hot water. Then two large groups of children turned up. Luckily we'd had enough of the water by then anyway and were content to sit in the shade reading so didn't really mind. We had lunch there too, cheap and tasty. At the end of the day we headed back to the main road and within a few minutes a bus pulled in and took us back to Gracias. Easy. Another great day.

Once we got off the bus we noticed two other backpackers get off. Not wanting them to follow the Lonely Planet map as we had, we led them into town. That night we bumped into them again at the Rinconcito Graciano restaurant (lovely owner, but I'm afraid the food was a bit mediocre). Julie and Dave were good fun, and we ended up going for a few drinks with them at a bar near our hotel. We had a really good time with them, and so ignored our worries about the hotel shutting, after all they had been up until midnight the previous night, At 11.30 we headed back... and found we were locked out. Julie and Dave waited with us for a bit, but in the end were worried what they would find back at their hotel (hope they got in). They'd offered us the spare bed in their room which I started to regret not taking as we knocked and knocked and nobody heard us. A local bloke came by and said we could sleep in his house. I genuinely think this was just a kind offer and would have been safe, but we wanted the bed we'd paid for. In the end, I broke in. Well, actually I banged on the door so hard that it sprang open. Oops. Well, that was one way of doing it... We were just glad to be inside. Then at just after midnight the youngsters got back and started shouting again. THEY were let in, which made me wonder if we'd been heard after all... In the end we enjoyed Gracias, but between the two we preferred Santa Rosa.

It took three buses to get to Copan Ruinas, but the journey went smoothly and by 2pm we'd arrived. Our first impressions of the town were positive, and we went on the hunt for a hostel. We'd planned on trying the Iguana Azual, and upon arrival were advised to ask at the B&B - Casa del Cafe - next door. Seemed that they didn't have space, but we were offered a room at the B&B instead. We knew it would be a little out of our price range, but decided that it couldn't harm to at least have a look... Oh dear. We immediately fell in love with the place. Simple but tastefully decorated, spotless room, an amazingly comfortable bed plus a beautiful garden to relax in. We did a bit of bargaining and managed to get a discount. It was still more than we could really justify, but sometimes you just have to give yourselves a treat.

That night we went to Comedor Mary for dinner. Nothing special but decent enough and reasonably priced. We also treated ourselved to a big bottle of rum... just to make full use of the garden of course. There was a mother cat with three kittens there, which brightened up our stay immensely. They were adorable. Once they had worn themselves out playing I even got one to sleep on my lap, very content (me and the kitten). In fact this was the pattern of our stay, enjoying a cuddle with the kittens before bed. Worth the price of the room I'd say.

The town of Copan is delightful, and we enjoyed just wandering around. However the main reason for our visit was of course the Mayan ruins. We spent a happy day there wandering around. It wasn't at all busy, some sections we had practically to ourselves. The Hieroglyphic Staircase was particularly impressive. We didn't pay extra for the tunnels (which would have doubled the price) but did go into the museum which was well worth it - especailly for the killer bat! The ruins date back to the 5th century AD, it's amazing to think of the work that went into building them and the people that would have lived and worshiped there. All in all an excellent day.

We also bumped into a nice English couple - Mal and Linda - that we'd seen in both Costa Rica and Nicaragua. Obviously we like the same kind of places as they were staying at our hotel. On our last day in Copan we were very lazy, just pottering around the town, having coffee and cake, and enjoying the garden at the B&B. A hard day! An advantage of paying a bit more was attentive staff and a constant flow of iced tea. Spending a bit extra on a room was a good idea, we feel really relaxed and refreshed. Our last meal in Honduras was sadly not Honduran as the places we wanted to visit were shut. Instead we had pizza at Jim's Copan Pizza, very good actually. Copan is a lovely town and probably our highlight in Honduras.

We're really sad to be leaving Honduras. So far it's been our favourite Central American country. We're so glad we ignored the gloom and doom and decided to find out for ourselves.

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