A Blessing for a Safe Voyage

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4 Hours

We started the day with 4 hours of chicken buses. The first one went from Antigua to Chimaltenango. Apparently you don{t try to get to your final direction, but get to points along the way. We all got seats on the multicolored school bus (more on this later). We were on for about 45 minutes and waited impatiently for the moment when we would have to share with more than 1 person. John (tour leader) and I actually got 4 in our seat with a mom and kid joining us. The next one went to Los encuentros and took about 2 hours. …standing most of the way! Bus 3 went to Solula but did not take too long at all. Empty bus really. But some seats didn´t have cushions.

A Blessing for a Safe Voyage - Santiago Atitlan

When we got to Panajachel we decided to Take a boat to Santiago Atitlan - a traditional Mayan Village south (across the lake) from Panajachel. The mayan tribe represented in Santiago Atitlan is the Tzútujil Maya.

But before we got there, we stopped off at this hotel in the middle of what seemed like nowhere on the lak (a place called Casa del Mundo) and did some cliff diving…well balcony diving, but the balconies were on the edge of a cliff. Lots of fun, and I will get pictures sent to me eventually.

MAXIMON
The people of Santiago Atitlan revere a God called Maximon. He is a combo of mayan gods and San Simon. Maximon is a wooden figure draped in colorful silk scarves, and smokes and drinks. Guatemalans go to him to make offerings (cigarettes and liquor) and ask for blessings.

My visit to Maximon is on I am unlikely to forget for awhile. It began with a request from one of my travel mates, Aaron, to translate a conversation with our child guide, Gregorio. Aaron first ask him to explain about Maximon. Gregorio told us that Maximon is an important God to the people of Santiago. And that people who are in great need, who are ill, or who need help or guidance to to make an offering and make requests of Maximon. He said that Maximon will help people of great faith, and that these people hire a Shaman to communicate with Maximon. Only Shamans have the ability to speak with him directly. Aaron then proceeded to ask me to ask Gregorio to find him a Shaman so that he could make a request of Maximon. Needless to say, I was a little shocked, and it gave me insight into what it would be like to be an official translator….Gregorio was happy to honor our request and helped me negotiate a price for the Shaman and the required offerings. Aaron would talk in English, I would translate to Spanish and gregorio would translate to Tzútujil for the Shaman. 200Q would give Aaron an audience with Maximon. The Shaman was to request a safe journey for our travelling group. We expected only Aaron to enter, but he requested I come too…to translate. In the end there were 5 of us including Jon our tour leader, River (Aarons son), Paul and I. Aaron and I kneeled on mats in front of Maximon while the Shaman conducted the ceremony in Tzútujil. It was very surreal as he spoke, waived a tin bucket of incense, sage, coal, frankincense, and other things. As part of the ceremony he asked each of our names, did group and individual prayers, and had us wear Maximon{s hat in each of the 4 compass points. Beyond this I can not really put the ceremony into words. Maximon smoked throughout the ceremony, and at times it was easy to see how he can come to life for people. It was moving, powerful, and emotional. I have not doubt that we are protected on our journey.

Church of the Mayans

While that experience can hardly be topped, I also got to experience a Catholic mass at the "church of the Mayans" It is a church founded by an American priest who took in Guatemalans to protect them during periods of war and lynching. It was filled with Guatemaltecos in traditional attire and was a beautiful and musical ceremony...no good fotos because I thought it would be rude...

A boat trip back to Panajachel and dinner at a Uruguayan restaurant concluded this full day!

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