Lake Atitlan/Antigua

---

I guess upon arriving in Guatemala, i didnt really know what to expect. After having recently visited the well-travelled tourist-laden tropics of Costa Rica, i guess i was imagining something similar. I had read some about Lago de Atitlan and spoke to fellow travelers who have been there, but nothing can really explain whats it really like to be there, altho i can try. Its more like the rural mountains in Southern Mexico without the coast's collection of Club Meds and Sandals.

Panajachel, i guess the biggest tourist town on the lake, is surrounded by towering clifflike mountains on eitherside, split by a "river" in a huge bed of would-be building material. The views of the volcanoes across the lake are startling, and the water mirrors the clouds. The towns collection of both homeless and independent dogs wander freely from street to street, visitor to visitor and restaurant to restaurant. Pana, the town itself, is made of artisan shops, restaurants, hostels, and a lot of travelers who look for something a little more untouched.

Having only enough time to chose one other town to visit, we took una lancha across to San Pedro La Laguna. After a morning of walking around under the threatening clouds, we were blessed by an afternoon of hot sun and billowy clouds. In complete contrast to this quiet village, a visit to the Sunday market of Chichicastenango offered us a glimpse of the hurry of Guatemalan markets, as well as the opportunity to experience some ancient Mayan rituals a top a sacred hill.

Antigua was a contrast from all we had seen and experienced at the lake. I will say one of the most prominent differences for me, since im a little bit crazy(about dogs), was the lack of street dogs in Antigua. Since it is a city, (and an extremely clean one at that - i think NYC should start using palm leaves to clean the streets and parks. awesome.) i guess owners keep a tighter reign on the dogs as they cant frolick as easily around the bustling cobblestone streets and cramped market spaces.

The colors of buildings, the surrounding volcanoes and mountains, the arch, the park...all were somewhat reminiscent of a older European town trying to stray from the binds of modern construction and uniformity.

Easily one of the most memorable and favorite experiences Ive had to date, is our climb up to the sunken secondary crater of Volcan Pacaya. I will never forget the feeling of walking on sharp porous volcanic rocks- piled precariously on top of each other, altho allowing mineral-rich steam to seethe out of the vents below them. The orange of the lava flow and fluidity of its motion downward is burned into my head. There were Hungry dogs jumping around the capricious rock piles as other climbers were struggling to jump from one area to the next. The views of the land around the volcano were clear, and a grassy meadow right below the volcanic rock began was a respite. The climb was energizing and calming.

It was over all too quickly. here are 10 of the most memorable moments i had:
1. seeing the volcanoes at the lake as the clouds cleared, for the first time.
2. wading in the lake under a tree in San Pedro
3. sipping Gallo by the piers in SP
4. feeding a street dog my leftover dinner- beans and bread
5. watching a Mayan marriage blessing at 464 yr old altar
6. everything about the volcano
7. learning old guatemalan recipes
8. listening to tdb in headphones and drinking Chilean wine on the balcony of the hotel with Matt on the last night
9. skimming across the lake in the boat back to Panajachel
10. my chicken sandwich after arriving in Antigua. yum

Me encanta a la Guatemala.

---

Comments

[Tommy Boy]

Fantastic Blog!!
Just wanted to say that I really enjoyed reading your blog. I have a plane ticket from London-Guatemala at the end of September. I will be in Central America for 6 months. I like reading blogs like yours as it gives me an insight to what I might be expecting. Thank you and keep up the good work!!!! :)