Feathers, flowers, fruit and fringe

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The women are pushing their way through the narrow aisles carrying colorfully woven scarves, table cloths, placemats. On their heads or shoulders are laundry basket size bundles of more of the same. Often on their backs is a baby wrapped securely in a brightly woven scarf. The men are bent over with heavy baskets or boxes of tomators, corn, seeds, wood or other products headed for the food market. No one pays much attention to tourists as this is their market.
Saint Tomas church is a blend of Christian and Mayan customs. The 18 steps are said to represent the steps of Mayan altars. The only ones that are supposed to walk up them are the Mayans. The rest of us are supposed to use a side door. Often the steps are covered with pine needles and men wave censers fulls of incense just outside the door. Always there is a fire going at the bottom of the steps. Mayan ladies sit at the bottom selling flowers and baskets of rose petals. Across the way there is a row of candle sellers. Inside the church along the middle aisle are several flat platforms covered with candles. People light anywhere from 1 to 50 candles often arranging them in artistic formations.

Along one side wall are three saints: St. Sebastian, St. Joseph and St. Tomas. Each is enshrined in their own fantastically decorated altar. The outside rim is all colored ostrich size feathers. The next inner rim is all flowers interspersed with 9 x 12 " mirrors. Next is a row of plastic fruit. Finally, in the center is the figure of the saint. He is covered with a shiny fringe type material with money stuck here and there. The haloes look like aluminum foil covered saucers. The creativity and care used to put these 'altars' together speaks to a deep level of devotion.
Today being Palm Sunday there was a small procession of 'andas' or floats. Outside the market went on. The ladies continued to walk through carrying chickens or turkeys under their arms. Tourists were being beseiged to buy, buy, buy. But inside the church the atmosphere was reverent and spiritual. The blend of the Mayan customs and the Church that the Spaniards inflicted on them was amazing to behold.

Later we hiked up the top of a small mountain to be part of a shaman ceremony. I was blessed in at least 2 languages and wished safe travels in an airplane and helicopter. But, that is another story.
Carolyn

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