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Published: January 31st 2007
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Sunrise
Derek sleeping in the minibus on our way to the ruins of Quirigua Back in Antigua after a long weekend traveling from Antigua to Livingston, Rio Dulce, and then on to the infamous Tikal ruins in the northern Guatemalan jungle. Check out the map. (Antigua to Puerto Barrios to Flores and back)
It was another great weekend with a few friends from the trip to Semuc Champey last weekend, and a few new friends from Holland, England, and Israel.
We left Antigua early early early (4am) and started our journey towards the smaller set of Mayan ruins at Quiriguá which is on the way to Livingston. This trip we did not have guides, but our driver Bernabe would take us to each stop. Only an hour or so needed to explore Quiriguá and then back in the minibus heading toward the Carribean coast.
You need to take a boat to Livingston so in Puerto Barrios we hopped on the small lancha for the breezy 20 minute ride. Livingston has an interesting history and is populated by a fusion of Garífuna (black Carib people) and Guatemalan cultures. When we got off the boat in Livingston I started to have my first feelings of not liking being a tourist. I felt strangely out
Quiriguá
Smaller than Tikal, but beautiful. Discovered in 1841, but buried under the rainforest until 1909... quite an amazing place, but it is dwarfed by Tikal, so I am glad that we stopped here first. of place in this small town, and as our group traipsed from the boat up the steep hill to the town, it was as though we were just there to stare at all the people and their *strange* town. Not that it was so different, but it was so obvious that we were the tourists arriving. It was especially uncomfortable and apparent to me while we were eating lunch in a restaurant on the main drag where another large group of American senior citizen tourists were also eating (you know that group that pours out of the busses... but they had to take a boat just like us somehow!)
So there we are having lunch and a group of Garífunian musicians comes into the restaurant to play a few songs. A nice touch to add to the ambiance, and good music- but immediately as they start to play every single tourist in the senior citizen group got up with their very expensive cameras and started to take photo after photo. It was as though they weren´t even interested in the music, the experience, etc... only in documenting that they saw this, they were there, they have a photo- now
time to move on to the next stop for more documentation. Of course, I am a tourist too, although I would like to think that I am more of a traveler than a tourist. But in situations like these, I feel so awkward because there is no way I blend into these cultures, and how do I comfortably enjoy and appreciate the great things I get to see while still being respectful. The other part of it is that I feel in some ways cheated in these types of situations. Of course as soon as the group played 2 songs and passed around the hat they quickly moved on. It made it seem contrived and cheap to me.
But I suppose that this is just another realization of many that I will have during this trip as I become a more seasoned traveler. Maybe these are the moments that help me make the transformation from tourist to traveler? Later that night, we did have a more real experience wandering through some dark beaches with loud music pumping from small shacks, checking for a house party, and finally being led to a local bar/club where we chatted with 2 locals
over a few Gallos. Tyson was only 19 and shared about what life in Livingston is like and why he wants to move to Guatemala City... After the amazing dinner of grilled shrimp and the best coconut bread I have ever had- it was a good end to our short stay in Livingston.
The next morning, we were up early again for the boat ride to Rio Dulce- which I have heard is amazing, but our tour was not organized so well as far as timing goes. We left from Livingston at 5am, so during the supposedly beautiful boat ride through Rio Dulce- it was pitch black! Eventually, the sun came up and we did have a beautiful sunrise in the backround, but seems like it would have been better to leave an hour later. Oh well.
The breakfast at Rio Dulce was my highlight of the whole weekend. Not because of the food or scenery, but rather the conversation with Bernabe and David (the driver of the boat). I decided to sit with them and chat in Spanish rather than with the group, who I only speak English with. My Spanish has really blossomed in the past
Quiriguá 4
Stelae dating back to 600-800AD week and I felt like I could hold my conversation with both of them- even though many of the words I have to ask about. And then I need to be corrected half the time, but I have gotten over that being so frustrating that it stops me from speaking. My confidence is much better now, which allows me to have more and more conversations with the locals here- the key to my success I hope!
Next stop was Tikal- the incredible Mayan ruins. They are big, they are amazing, it was in the jungle. Believe the hype. I am not normally a ruins lover, but really liked exploring through the jungle. Saw a toucan, monkeys, baby monkeys, and a fox. Heard lots of birds.
After the afternoon there, we had some nice pool time at our very nice hotel in Flores. The rain and breeze was so refreshing as the jungles of Tikal are pretty muggy.
It was another great weekend exploring Guatemala and time to leave Antigua finally. It is love-hate thing with Antigua. Love how easy it is here and all the friends that I have made. I am bumping into locals who remember
Puerto Barrios
On our way to Livingston my name, and I am super comfortable here, but really need to experience more of the *real* Guatemala and speak less English. Next on to Xela to check out one of the volcanoes there- although I am a bit worried about the cold weather there (tonight the low is 0 degrees Celcius)! Hopefully the hot springs will relieve the chill?
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Bea and Cliff
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So cool!
Hi! It's wonderful to travel along with you- love your comments about tourists documenting and not experiencing.... great photos , and you look so happy! BTW, it'll be minus 13 F here on Sat night....hugs from Wisconsin