Guatemala II; Rio Dulce/Antigua (waterfalls, castles and near break-ins)

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Having left ARCAS wildlife rescue centre after three weeks of volunteering, we took a lancha (a small and skinny wooden boat) to Flores where we unfortunately had to stay another night but left early morning to take a chicken bus to Rio Dulce, a quiet little town near Lake Izabal. The people were very friendly, the town quite small being centered on one main street and ¨the longest bridge in Central America¨spanning across the lake. We took a day trip to El Estor, also along the lake side, to a castle ¨Castillo de San Felipe¨ which had to have been build to defend midgets. The castle was very short and placed on the waterfront, the doors were very skinny and so low we had to duck to pass through them. The hallways were so tight and confined people could only pass through in one direction and brush their shoulders against the wall. We figured if they make the castle so small no one could get in it, they wouldn´t have difficulty defending it.

Another day trip was spent going to El Paraiso, a 12m tall waterfall and swimming hole surrounded by trees. First getting into the water was so refreshing and cold, there where schools of small fish who weren´t shy to our presence, algae covered slimy rocks distributed randomly as standing platforms, loads of caves and caverns created by the constant pouring of water. As we swam toward the waterfall, parts of the water would become warm in spots, or cool, or cold. The water from the waterfall, however, was very hot, as no trees shaded the water and the sun would heat the water up before it fell to the swimming hole. I sat on a rock under the waterfall, getting hot water pouring on me while cold water ran across the rocks across me. It was such an odd experience to have hot and cold water on at the same time, it was as refreshing as sitting in a hot tub then running into the cool swimming pool then back again, but without moving from the spot. Other backpackers swam around as well, sat on rocks or took pictures, and there were a few Guatemalan families (lots of family members) having picnics and barbeques off to the side.

While back in Rio Dulce, we got ready to leave for dinner, and passed a man who looked very comfortable and shirtless standing near the entrance of our hostel. He said something to me in Spanish about how it´s going to rain, but there were no rain clouds in the sky. Thinking nothing of it, we ignored him and ate at a small comedor next door. During the meal, i saw the man walk by with his shirt on. We wanted to go to the bar for a game of pool but went to the room first. The door was slightly ajar and when we approached to investigate, the lock had been broken off. Someone had spent a lot of time and energy getting it open. We didn´t notice anything missing and i had my laptop sitting on the bed, camera, money pouch, DVDs, other valuables we had around the room... the only thing out of place was my big bag had been knocked over. We got one of the hostel owners to see it and (since my Spanish isn´t so good) we had a little difficulty communicating but when she saw the door was broken in, she got really pissed and began swearing and going on about a man that was near the door. At first i thought it was someone she knew who they had fall-outs with so he broke our door out of spite. But then i realized she was saying that man we saw, she seen him peaking around another door looking suspicious. When she approached him, he was sweating profusely and was asking if she wanted to buy fish, then he left. She hadn´t noticed the door. So she caught him immediately after he opened the door and he hadn´t had a chance to take anything. We were very lucky. Okay VERY VERY lucky!! That was too close of a call, so now we take our belongings with us and hope we aren´t mugged in the streets.

So we decided to switch rooms and leave the following morning to Antigua, which is a very touristy town full of old buildings and.. well... tourists. There are views of volcanoes we didn´t care to hike (especially as we heard lots of muggings occur but you can get a pre-pubescent body guard with a gun... that is a relief...). We spent most the time wandering the town squares, getting asked if we want tours, to buy marijuana or 95% cocaine (i told him i don´t settle for less than 96% but he was too doped up to realize it was a joke). The buildings were nice enough but i preferred the street market. It was outside but all the vendors were under cover of plastic tarps so it looked as if it were inside. When you enter it´s a maze of vendors with narrow isles to walk. They alternate the stalls between teenage/westernized clothing, fruits and veggies, toiletries, and cheap things you find at a dollar store, among a few other stalls. But they were all set up similarily and comparable prices. Little kids ran underfoot while their mothers asked us ¨que busca? que quieres?¨ (what are you looking for? what you want?). i liked the hustle-and-bustle of it, the authentic Guatemalan experience. But was happy to leave Antigua. Now we are off to the turtle project, the southern coast of Guatemala...


^Út Í Óvissuna^

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Photos

Statue
On fountain in Antigua, Guatemala

Filling up
There are few gas stations on this road

Tiny Doorways
Castle entrances

Fountain
In Antigua

Guatemala Women
In traditional dress trying to sell necklaces

Volcano view
From Antigua

Antigua streets
And volcano view