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Published: December 24th 2005
Panama was cool: I saw the Panama Canal and got an opportunity to stock my backpack with what I like to call 'non-backpacker fashion' (ie. not cargo pants). Costa Rica was fun: I got to meet up with George, I got to go screaming through the canopy of the cloud forest on some zip lines (19 to be exact) and I got to see (and hear) lava falling down the side of a volcano. BUT, the real winner is Nicaragua. It seems the poorest country in my travels so far but I've found that the poorer the country, the bigger the smiles adorning the people. Everyone is just so, so lovely in Nicaragua.
First stop in Nicaragua was the Isla de Ometepe, an island of two volcanoes in Lago de Nicaragua. I did a spot of hiking (soon after remembered that I don't like hiking) and spent the rest of the days swimming and lounging lakeside, on a farm complete with guard geese (who needs a ferocious dog when you've got these noisy little buggers?).
I spent a night in the colonial city of Granada but decided I hadn't done enough lake-side lounging so took myself off to the
'Laguna de Apoyo' where I got to do more of it for a day.
Next was another colonial city: Leon. This place was cool and, again, the people lovely. I fell in love with the family that ran the hostel who had me stay another night for free in return for making some signs, in English, for their hostel.
My introduction into Nicaragua was also my introduction to long distance travel on 'Blue Bird' buses. These old beasts are the yellow school buses that once transported eager young Americans to their educational institutions. That was in the 60's. It seems the whole fleet landed on Central American shores some time ago and they have had a whole lotta lovin' since. Affectionately named 'Chicken Buses' because someone always has a sackful of live chickens on board, they run like I'd imagine the world's first cars did at the turn of the last century (and if you're thinking that there weren't a whole lotta cars in production at the turn of the last century, that there were only horses and carts, that's because they run like horses and carts: bumpy, dusty and e-x-t-r-e-m-e-l-y slow).
The Blue Birds were built
Mural in Leon
Leon is meant to be one of the most politically progressive cities in Nicaragua. Almost all of the residents fought against the Somoza regime and helped the Sandinistas bring about the revolution. As a result there are heaps of murals around town with political themes.with young children's bums and legs in mind (and I'm not suggesting that Mr. Blue Bird had any sinister intentions here). One chair would have once fitted 2 children's bottoms comfortably. Now, they uncomfortably house one and half adult bottoms. My predicament, and the predicament of many a western traveller, is that my legs don't fit. I have two options: One; occupy the whole seat. This unfortunately, is less like an option and more like a dream for me to one day achieve, as Latin Americans have a predilection for filling buses so full that people are hanging from the doors. I therefore have to resort to option number two; which is sit in a motionless foetal position for the duration of the bus trip. I've discovered that if I don't move at all, my limbs go dead and then I can't feel anything. This is good up until the time when I actually have to move ... I'm seriously considering investing in a horse and cart.
On any bus or at any bus terminal in Latin America there is always a person who yells out the destination of the bus really loudly and really fast. This is often
Volcán Concepcíon
The active volcano on Isla de Ometepe. really annoying. I find myself repeating the destination chant for hours afterwards. A memorable chant from Bolivia has had me chanting 'a Tupiza Tupiza' for the past few months. Nicaragua, however, wins for loudest and fastest. I now believe that throat singing originated in the bus terminals of Nicaragua, not in Central Asia as is most commonly thought. The destination chants almost have an air of spirituality to them with the harmonic resonance they manage to achieve. It's quite something.
I digress... I'm now in Antigua, Guatemala, winner, in my books, of the 'most beautiful colonial city in Latin America' award. The place is lovely with cobblestone streets, colourful houses and beautiful gardens, and the people are lovely too. The plan is to stay here for Christmas and then move on to Lago de Atitlan for New Years to get in touch with my inner mung bean at a health resort-ish lakeside hostel.
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anonymous
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Hola Kate, Feliz Navida. You might be able to get some of that sought after boredom killer in Lago Atitlan. Im in Pondicherry, India. Ex-French colonial area of India. Should be hitting the beach for New years. Have a great one. Love Shani