Central America High Points Part 5: Easy El Pital

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After getting thoroughly knackered on Cerro Las Minas in Honduras 2 days prior, it was with great relief that the highest mountain in El Salvador turned out to be a walk in the park. I liked the little town of San Ignacio as a base for the hike, seemed much nicer than La Palma a bit further from the border, and the posada was excellent.

San Ignacio

Good introduction to El Salvador as it's the first town coming from the border with Honduras. The first night was pretty rowdy, complete with fireworks, because of the presidential election but the rest of the time was muy tranquilo. There must have been more pupuserías here per capita than any other place I visited in El Salvador. Previous reports indicate there is no ATM in town but there is now as well as an attached bank so I don't really see the need to stay in La Palma.

Accommodation and food Not much of a choice as Posada El Rey appeared to be the only place in town. Turned out to be very nice, a twin with cold water bathroom, WiFi, cable TV, and drinking water was $15. Only downside is they've got a bunch of parrots that go off early in the morning and a couple of dogs that bark at their own shadows. Since this is El Salvador, pupuserías dominate the dining scene. For something different, Jali's Pizza on the main drag is actually really good and $5-6 gets a good sized pie for 2 people. Across the street is a restaurant serving typical platos for ~$3.

Transport To or from the border buses (20 minutes, $0.50) pass by the highway every half hour or so but the last bus from the border leaves at 16:00. Cost is $0.50. For Suchitito, take a San Salvador bus to Aguilares (2 hours, $1.50) and change for Suchitoto (1 hour, $0.75). For the summit, best to catch the bus leaving from the center at 9:30 for $1.15, taking about an hour to where the trail/service road starts for the summit. Last return bus to San Ignacio passes around 15:00 but it was easy to cadge a lift in the back of the Cheetos delivery dude's pickup truck.

Cerro El Pital Summit I was still traveling with my English mate Ben with whom I summited Cerro Las Minas. We set out from town on the second bus after a leisurely breakfast and weren't sure if we were going to make it. The road is very steep and windy and the bus appeared to be having serious transmission issues and rode the whole way in first and second gear. At one point we stopped and the bus rolled back a bit which gave everyone a startle then the driver started to reverse down the hill until we reached a flat spot to attend to minor repairs.

Eventually reached the pass and started walking towards the summit (well signed to the gate) at 10:30. After a short time we reached the gate marking the private property and each forked over $3 for the privilege. The directions to the top weren't entirely clear from that point and we hit a false summit surrounded by the ubiquitous barbed wire. After a brief consultation at one of the nearby restaurants, we reached the summit at 12:30. Once again, not much to see due to the trees and clouds. Some locals we met near the restaurant gave us a lift back to the road and at 13:45 I was enjoying my first batch of pupusas con frijoles y queso at the economical price of 3 for $1.20. While waiting for the 15:00 bus to pass we were able to hitch back to town, arriving at 14:45.

Suchitoto

Not sure what the fuss is about this place. It's nice but incredibly dull. I tried to arrange a police escort for a waterfall hike but none were available. Also tried to take a ferry across the lake (local bus from center to ferry dock, $0.30) but it was not operating that day and I did not want to fork over for a private boat trip.

Accommodation and food Blanca Luna has adequate rooms for $7/person with private cold water bathrooms, TV, drinking water, kitchen use, and WiFi for $1 extra/day although I got it included without much fuss. The mercado is a great place for breakfasts, lunches, juices, and the cheapest pupusas in El Salvador - 3 for $1. Most places in the market close ~15-16:00. On the square are a couple more pupuserías.

Transport Buses to San Salvador depart from next to the market every 20 minutes starting on the hour ($0.70). I left at 8:00 and arrived in the capital at the Terminal Occidente at 9:50. From there local bus 7C ($0.25) passes by for Terminal Oriente for Santa Ana (frequent departures, taking 1:45, $0.80 fare, but these buses only make a drive by Santa Ana's central bus terminal).

Santa Ana

Good base for the nearby volcanoes and the Flower Route towns. It's purportedly the second biggest city in El Salvador but it didn't feel like it. Nighttime around the hostel is dark, deserted, and creepy.

Accommodation and food Casa Verde is a great hostel to hang and meet other travelers. Facilities are excellent and the place is very clean. A bed in the 6 person dorm was a bit pricey at $10 but it was really quiet and each bed had it's own fan and power outlet with nightlight. The hostel has a swimming pool, WiFi, a PC, hammocks for chillin', TV room with many DVDs, free coffee, and H2O. Close by are 2 good places to eat. Comedor Bongiorno opens at 6:30 for breakfast (good before the morning bus to the volcanoes) but they had a weird version of horchata which was peanut based and not so great. Lacteos y Panaderia Evelyn serves $1.75 almuerzos, a bit more for the surprisingly good lasagne. Since most places are closed for dinner, Pupusería Yany does booming night business; most pupusas are ~$1.50 for 3.

Transport There are several terminals in the city. Vencedora and the central terminal at the market are both close to the hostel. There is a new terminal far out of town. Local bus 55D and a couple microbuses pass near the hostel for this terminal and also the Primea Linea office at the hospital. Fares are $0.25.

Volcán Santa Ana Must depart Vencedora terminal at 7:30 ($0.90, buy tix at the window, not on the bus) in order to be at the park for the mandatory guided trip departing at 11:00. There is a $3 entry fee for the park, a $6 climb fee, $1 to cross private property, and another $1 for the guide. It was a good hike taking just over 1½ hours to the volcanic crater rim (didn't actually tag the high point) from where there is a great view of the turquoise lake at the bottom of the crater. Had 20 minutes or so of "summit" time then descended to the park entrance reaching there at 14:45 in time for the purported 15:00 bus back to Santa Ana which in reality did not exist. Had to wait til 16:00 for the last bus of the day which only went as far as El Congo ($0.80) where we changed for a more direct bus to Santa Ana ($0.60) which made for an overall faster trip than the morning ride to the park. Got back to Santa Ana ~17:30. Liked the hike but the start time and bus schedules could be much better optimized to minimize the waiting around time.

Border Crossing to Guatemala at San Cristóbal and to Lake Atitlan There is a direct bus service between Santa Ana (bus originates in San Salvador) and Guatemala City on Prima Linea. The bus passes the office at San Antonio Hospital at 6:00, 8:00, 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, and 16:00 and the fare from either departure point is $15, money well spent for the quality of the bus and fast journey. I left at 6:00 and the trip took 4:45 but there was heavy traffic entering Guatemala City and I think the trip should take less time. The border was very quick, easy, and painless just like all my other Central America crossings. Bought $20 worth of Guatemalan quetzales (Q) at a good rate of Q7.5/$. Food and lodging are available at the border and there was also a large market today (Monday) on the Guatemala side where I had a huge, and so far not vomit inducing, $0.70 fruit salad for breakfast.

The bus was through the border just after 7:00 and a few hours later we arrived at the company's Guatemala City office in Zona 4. Out at 5 Avenida is a Pollo Campero where local bus 21 (Q1 fare) passes what I believe is called Estación El Trebol from where regular chicken buses pass for Los Encuentros (change for Panajachel), Chimaltenango (change for Antigua), Huehuetenango, and Quetzaltenango (a.k.a., Xela). After wolfing down a carne asada for Q15, I caught a bus to Los Encuentros at 11:45 for Q25, arriving at 14:15 where I changed for what I thought was a direct Panajachel bus. It turned out to be going only as far as Sololá (Q2.5) where I had to change for the final time to Pana for Q3. Arrived at 15:30 making for a long day but much less painful than if I had taken local buses to the border from Santa Ana then again from the border to "Guate." Actually, I don't even remember seeing any sort of public transport on the Guatemala side of the border but this being Central America there must be.

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Photos

Top of El Salvador
Standing on the summit nipple with barbed wire marking El Salvador's border with Honduras, Cerro El Pital.

Post Pital Pupusas
Pickled cabbage and tomato "salsita" are the main condiments, El Pital.

Riding in the Back With Muchos Cheetos
Cerro El Pital

Cathedral
Suchitoto

Volcán Izalco
Lower than Volcán Santa Ana but a harder hike, Parque Nacional Los Volcanes.

Volcán Izalco
On the ascent of Volcán Santa Ana, Parque Nacional Los Volcanes.

Crater Lake
Volcán Santa Ana, Parque Nacional Los Volcanes.

Lago De Coatepeque
Large caldera as seen from Volcán Santa Ana, Parque Nacional Los Volcanes.

Pupuseria Yany
Cranking 'em out non-stop, Santa Ana.

Yany Hard at Work
Always seemed to have a full grill and many hungry customers, Santa Ana.